I am upgrading my MRV-f300 to a new 5 Channel AMP and I already have a MRV M500. If I were install a extra sub in the car could I run one sub off the 5 channel and one off the M500? If so what problems will I start dealing or will their be no problems at all? AMP I am thinking of purchasing is the PDX v9.
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Dueling Subs of two AMPS
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Helix A4 Competition Amp
Product Brand & Model:
Helix A4 Competition Amp
Condition of all items:
Used
Originally purchased from another member about 2 years ago to use in my install. Went a different route and left this sitting in the closet. Don't plan to use it so figured it was time to sell it.
Total Price: :
$500 shipped conus
Shipping Terms: :
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
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Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
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DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
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Helix A4 Competition Amp
Condition of all items:
Used
Originally purchased from another member about 2 years ago to use in my install. Went a different route and left this sitting in the closet. Don't plan to use it so figured it was time to sell it.
Total Price: :
$500 shipped conus
Shipping Terms: :
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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Amp Wiring Question
Have a AR4500.1 Sounstrram Sounstream 1 channel amp wiring,a P3 dual VC fosgate 12 inch ...do I need to run right and left rca channels,from,head unit or just a single cable
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Recommend Viper Installer in Virginia-Maryland Area
Good evening, does anyone on here install Viper alarms or can recommend a good install shop? I have the Viper 5706V, a DB3 bypass module, and digital tilt and glass break sensors. All of this would go into a 2017 Toyota Tacoma push-to-start.
If anyone here installs I would gladly pay you for your time.
Thank you!
If anyone here installs I would gladly pay you for your time.
Thank you!
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Subwoofer install in 2012 Audi Q5
The stock B&O system is really bad in this car. Well, all stock sound system are bad to be fair.
So, I had to start somewhere. The easiest seemed to be an upgrade to the (sub)bass.
The LOC in use has a feature where it can counter bass frequencies being lowered when the stock head unit starts lowering the bass output at high HU volumes to protect the stock speakers. It turns out this Audi didn't need that feature (bass didn't drop even at max volume).
The box is what it is (quality wise it is actually OK), it's tuned a little high for my taste. Unfortunately with limited tools and no shop/space I decided to go with the prefab box. It cheap but gets the job done.
How does it sound? It sounds really good, gets really loud after I set the gains "properly". One interesting note however is that the Accubass gain needs to be set to 95% of max in order for the "Maximize" LED to come on, when the HU is at full tilt. I'm tapping into the stock subwoofer amp output for the line in to the LOC, I might get better results by tapping into the front speakers but then I'd have to run cables from the HU all the way back, I'd rather not do that.
I need to do some sweeps and check what the frequency response looks like. All in all it blends in quite well with the system, I'm really happy with it.
I had to get signal from somewhere. For now I'm using the stock subwoofer output, which may or may not have a highpass filter on it. I'm trying to find an easy way to get the front L/R speaker signals and wire them to the rear, if these are unfiltered. But, I've yet to do any measurements to see where the signal currently rolls off.
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Fitting the Accubass LC2i LOC unit to the box.
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Fitting the Sundown Audio SAE-600D amp to the box.
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The ground for the amp was hooked up to the bottom bolt in this picture.
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Using extremely expensive cable management - staples.
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Wiring without the sub in the trunk:
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Testing that it works:
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The finished product:
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It is now REALLY evident that I have to do something with the front stage. I'm still researching that part, there does not seem to be a lot of aftermarket audio installs in these cars (at least not with the B&O system).
Total cost for the install with shipping of parts was around $630. (it took ~2 days to install)
So, I had to start somewhere. The easiest seemed to be an upgrade to the (sub)bass.
- Prefab box tuned to ~39Hz for 2x8"
2x Sundown Audio EV-5 (dual 4 ohm)
Sundown Audio SAE-600D Monoblock 600W RMS
Accubas LC2i LOC
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
The LOC in use has a feature where it can counter bass frequencies being lowered when the stock head unit starts lowering the bass output at high HU volumes to protect the stock speakers. It turns out this Audi didn't need that feature (bass didn't drop even at max volume).
The box is what it is (quality wise it is actually OK), it's tuned a little high for my taste. Unfortunately with limited tools and no shop/space I decided to go with the prefab box. It cheap but gets the job done.
How does it sound? It sounds really good, gets really loud after I set the gains "properly". One interesting note however is that the Accubass gain needs to be set to 95% of max in order for the "Maximize" LED to come on, when the HU is at full tilt. I'm tapping into the stock subwoofer amp output for the line in to the LOC, I might get better results by tapping into the front speakers but then I'd have to run cables from the HU all the way back, I'd rather not do that.
I need to do some sweeps and check what the frequency response looks like. All in all it blends in quite well with the system, I'm really happy with it.
I had to get signal from somewhere. For now I'm using the stock subwoofer output, which may or may not have a highpass filter on it. I'm trying to find an easy way to get the front L/R speaker signals and wire them to the rear, if these are unfiltered. But, I've yet to do any measurements to see where the signal currently rolls off.
Fitting the Accubass LC2i LOC unit to the box.
Fitting the Sundown Audio SAE-600D amp to the box.
The ground for the amp was hooked up to the bottom bolt in this picture.
Using extremely expensive cable management - staples.
Wiring without the sub in the trunk:
Testing that it works:
The finished product:
It is now REALLY evident that I have to do something with the front stage. I'm still researching that part, there does not seem to be a lot of aftermarket audio installs in these cars (at least not with the B&O system).
Total cost for the install with shipping of parts was around $630. (it took ~2 days to install)
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Help Choose JL Audio XD 700/5v2 or HD900/5
Hi, I could use some help on deciding between the JL Audio XD700/5v2 and the JL Audio HD 900/5 for my 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee.
I will be using JL C5 components up front, coaxial in rear, and a jl audio ho112rg-w3v3 (ported W3 12"), Audio Control DQ-61.
There is a huge price difference between the two amps so I'm hoping the XD will be enough but also don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish, but also don't want to through money at something that may be overkill.
I've owned a MTX 300 watt amp and 10" sub (sealed box) in the past and don't remember wishing it any louder.
Oh, and I also have the doors and trunk Dynamat already. Any advice greatly appreciated. I listen to mostly hard rock for what it's worth.
I will be using JL C5 components up front, coaxial in rear, and a jl audio ho112rg-w3v3 (ported W3 12"), Audio Control DQ-61.
There is a huge price difference between the two amps so I'm hoping the XD will be enough but also don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish, but also don't want to through money at something that may be overkill.
I've owned a MTX 300 watt amp and 10" sub (sealed box) in the past and don't remember wishing it any louder.
Oh, and I also have the doors and trunk Dynamat already. Any advice greatly appreciated. I listen to mostly hard rock for what it's worth.
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Amp Set: 4 Channel or 2 Channel Bridged
Hi, I'm looking for advice on how to use my amp. Due to a variety of factors of lack of space in car for amp and really good deals on deck /speakers, I ended up with the system listed below. I currently have two options:
(1) use the amp to deliver 50W RMS to my four speakers.
(2) bridge the amp and to deliver 150W RMS to front speakers and use deck power to deliver 22W RMS to the rear speakers
What would you do? How would you set it up?
System Details:
Head unit: Kenwood DDX6703S - 22W RMS deck power
Front Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C Type R 6.5" Components (8 to 110W RMS)
Rear Speakers: Alpine SPS-610C Type S 6.5" Components (2 to 80W RMS)
Amp: Kenwood KAC-M3004
- 50W RMS x 4 channels at 4 ohms
- 150W RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms bridged
Any opinions, suggestions, advice will be much appreciated!
Thank you
(1) use the amp to deliver 50W RMS to my four speakers.
(2) bridge the amp and to deliver 150W RMS to front speakers and use deck power to deliver 22W RMS to the rear speakers
What would you do? How would you set it up?
System Details:
Head unit: Kenwood DDX6703S - 22W RMS deck power
Front Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C Type R 6.5" Components (8 to 110W RMS)
Rear Speakers: Alpine SPS-610C Type S 6.5" Components (2 to 80W RMS)
Amp: Kenwood KAC-M3004
- 50W RMS x 4 channels at 4 ohms
- 150W RMS x 2 channels at 4 ohms bridged
Any opinions, suggestions, advice will be much appreciated!
Thank you
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New 350z SQ Build - Looking for Opinions
Hello,
So I used to be in the industry back in the late 90s, and designed/installed a number of my own systems featuring Orion HCCA & NTs during their peak. I've decided that it would be fun to build a new system for the first time in a while, and after a number of years out of the scene things have definitely changed.
I have a 2005 350z as my fun vehicle, and I'm looking to design a build a primarily SQ system. I understand that SQ and SPL are a give/take relationship, but I'd like SQ with the option for bass due to the fact I primarily listen to EDM/Club/Techno/etc.... with some old school hip hop or rock mixed in. I'm planning on stripping the car over the winter while I won't use it. That way I can install the equipment along with a self designed/built box/amp rack with some other features for a stealth build. Below is what I've come up with so far, but any suggestions would be welcome.
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX (arriving this week)
Zapco Z150.6 (front and rear fill amp)
Zapco Z-2KD (sub amp)
Zapco DSP-Z8 IV (DSP/EQ)
Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus or Legatia Components (front)
Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine Comp/Coaxial (rear fill)
2x Image Dynamics IDMAX 10v4
Looking to run the fronts active using the DSP, thus the 6 channel amp. And the subs have a 500rms/1000max so the 2kd will meet that easily with gains down/low THD.
Not looking to compete or demo, so not too worried about batteries, though I have used Optima's back when they first came out. I'll be making my own RCA cables, but haven't decided on power cables/speaker wire yet. Grew up with Monster (fully aware of the controversy if they make a difference or not), but they don't seem to be active any longer, so still looking.
TLDR: Looking to build a SQ system for EDM with the above equipment in a 350z, open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
So I used to be in the industry back in the late 90s, and designed/installed a number of my own systems featuring Orion HCCA & NTs during their peak. I've decided that it would be fun to build a new system for the first time in a while, and after a number of years out of the scene things have definitely changed.
I have a 2005 350z as my fun vehicle, and I'm looking to design a build a primarily SQ system. I understand that SQ and SPL are a give/take relationship, but I'd like SQ with the option for bass due to the fact I primarily listen to EDM/Club/Techno/etc.... with some old school hip hop or rock mixed in. I'm planning on stripping the car over the winter while I won't use it. That way I can install the equipment along with a self designed/built box/amp rack with some other features for a stealth build. Below is what I've come up with so far, but any suggestions would be welcome.
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX (arriving this week)
Zapco Z150.6 (front and rear fill amp)
Zapco Z-2KD (sub amp)
Zapco DSP-Z8 IV (DSP/EQ)
Hybrid Audio Technologies Clarus or Legatia Components (front)
Hybrid Audio Technologies Imagine Comp/Coaxial (rear fill)
2x Image Dynamics IDMAX 10v4
Looking to run the fronts active using the DSP, thus the 6 channel amp. And the subs have a 500rms/1000max so the 2kd will meet that easily with gains down/low THD.
Not looking to compete or demo, so not too worried about batteries, though I have used Optima's back when they first came out. I'll be making my own RCA cables, but haven't decided on power cables/speaker wire yet. Grew up with Monster (fully aware of the controversy if they make a difference or not), but they don't seem to be active any longer, so still looking.
TLDR: Looking to build a SQ system for EDM with the above equipment in a 350z, open to suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
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Needing some equipment advice for my Range
Hello DIY Mobile Audio forum
Thanks for the add to this forum I am looking forward to speaking with you. About 1 year ago I purchased a 2007 Range Rover and since I have been making little modifications here and there, things like the wheels have custom 24" rims I have chrome trim and things like this. it's now time for the music system to get set up.
I have been looking around for car stereo systems and speaking to friends to try and find the one that I want. One of my friends suggested I build my own and then he would wire it all up for me. so, here I am, hoping that some of you guys can help me build an awesome stereo system to go in my Range. I am looking for everything from amplifiers to speakers the best cabling and pretty much anything else you guys can think of that will give me the best result. All I ask for you to include is power and plenty of base, enough to get the Range shaking. I haven't really got a budget so let your imagination run wild.
Thanks
Thanks for the add to this forum I am looking forward to speaking with you. About 1 year ago I purchased a 2007 Range Rover and since I have been making little modifications here and there, things like the wheels have custom 24" rims I have chrome trim and things like this. it's now time for the music system to get set up.
I have been looking around for car stereo systems and speaking to friends to try and find the one that I want. One of my friends suggested I build my own and then he would wire it all up for me. so, here I am, hoping that some of you guys can help me build an awesome stereo system to go in my Range. I am looking for everything from amplifiers to speakers the best cabling and pretty much anything else you guys can think of that will give me the best result. All I ask for you to include is power and plenty of base, enough to get the Range shaking. I haven't really got a budget so let your imagination run wild.
Thanks
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Driver selection for 3 way active setup
First, thanks to those who chimed in on my thread about sub selection last week. Now I'm researching drivers for a 3 way active front stage. I already have a Helix DSP, amplification, a sub, and a head unit taken care of so now it's down to picking drivers. This is definitely an SQ oriented build, and I find that I generally prefer neutral or warm sound. With that said, here's my candidates.
Audison Voce
Hertz ML
Illusion Carbon
I am open to mixing and matching, but would honestly prefer to have all 3 drivers from the same manufacturer. My one wild card is the Scanspeak Illuminator tweeter that I see popping up all around here, the D3004. I've done too much research and not talked to enough enthusiasts yet, so help a new guy out with your collective expertise.
Let's hear it, guys. Thanks.
Audison Voce
Hertz ML
Illusion Carbon
I am open to mixing and matching, but would honestly prefer to have all 3 drivers from the same manufacturer. My one wild card is the Scanspeak Illuminator tweeter that I see popping up all around here, the D3004. I've done too much research and not talked to enough enthusiasts yet, so help a new guy out with your collective expertise.
Let's hear it, guys. Thanks.
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Can I get away with this port?
Hi all,
Looking to put two 10W6v3-D4 in a ported enclosure paired to a 1kW amp @ 1 ohm.
Enclosure size after driver displacement: ~2 cu ft
I'm looking to tune the box to 32-33Hz. If I model one 4" port (~14" long), I get an air velocity of about 108 ft/s. That's a bit high for my taste (actually, quite high). I'm worried about resonance / chuffing even with the port flared at both ends.
If I model a 6" port, it's going to be too long for the box, so that's out. With a 5" port, I get an air velocity of about 72 ft/s which is much better.
The problem is, I cannot find 5" ports anywhere online. I also need it to be ~25" long.
I was looking at doing a slot port, but if I can find a 5" ID port that would be much easier and more efficient (port takes up less volume in box).
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Looking to put two 10W6v3-D4 in a ported enclosure paired to a 1kW amp @ 1 ohm.
Enclosure size after driver displacement: ~2 cu ft
I'm looking to tune the box to 32-33Hz. If I model one 4" port (~14" long), I get an air velocity of about 108 ft/s. That's a bit high for my taste (actually, quite high). I'm worried about resonance / chuffing even with the port flared at both ends.
If I model a 6" port, it's going to be too long for the box, so that's out. With a 5" port, I get an air velocity of about 72 ft/s which is much better.
The problem is, I cannot find 5" ports anywhere online. I also need it to be ~25" long.
I was looking at doing a slot port, but if I can find a 5" ID port that would be much easier and more efficient (port takes up less volume in box).
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New 2.5" Wide band from Morel: CCWR254
Looks like Morel is now entering the 2.5" wideband driver market. wonder how this will measure up next to Andy's wonderful Audio Frog gs25?
https://www.morelhifi.com/product/cc...mpaign=CCWR254
Quick specs review:
SPECIFICATIONS
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE (Ohm) 4
NOMINAL POWER HANDLING (DIN) 40
TRANSIENT POWER HANDLING W (10MS) 80
SENSITIVITY (2.83V/1M) dB 84.5
USABLE FREQUENCY RANGE (Hz) 300 - 19,000
I have attached the Specs PDF for more details.
What do you guys think?
https://www.morelhifi.com/product/cc...mpaign=CCWR254
Quick specs review:
SPECIFICATIONS
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE (Ohm) 4
NOMINAL POWER HANDLING (DIN) 40
TRANSIENT POWER HANDLING W (10MS) 80
SENSITIVITY (2.83V/1M) dB 84.5
USABLE FREQUENCY RANGE (Hz) 300 - 19,000
I have attached the Specs PDF for more details.
What do you guys think?
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New here in ny
Hello my names keith a lil new to this so advice would help. I run a sony hu and a jvc ks 5500 450 watt amp with a 12 in rockford fosgate p1. Trying to figure out to get the best quality sound and understand the purpose of the crossover on amp.
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Underseat sub or decent door speakers with amp
As the title suggests, is it better to have an average set of aftermarket speakers + head unit and an active underseat subwoofer?
Or just have amplified door speakers using a compact class D amplifier 4 x100W.
If feel both would be overkill I don't want to spend too much and also I'm not looking for anything to make Windows shake just a nice deep sound listening to tunes on the way to work.
I also don't want anything which will take up loads of room in my car.
Or just have amplified door speakers using a compact class D amplifier 4 x100W.
If feel both would be overkill I don't want to spend too much and also I'm not looking for anything to make Windows shake just a nice deep sound listening to tunes on the way to work.
I also don't want anything which will take up loads of room in my car.
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Is this set up correct?
5 channel amplifier. Jl audio xd10005v2 will be bridging 4 channels to 2 channels to run jl audio zr650 woofer and tweeters. And the sub will be powered by the remaining channel.
Is this correct? I have plugged splitters to channel 1+2 and another splitter into 3+4 then connected the rca cable to them. And for the sub the rca straight into the amp. Is this correct? Am i missing anything? I have attached a photo
Is this correct? I have plugged splitters to channel 1+2 and another splitter into 3+4 then connected the rca cable to them. And for the sub the rca straight into the amp. Is this correct? Am i missing anything? I have attached a photo
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Pioneer DEH-80PRS
HELLO wanted to know if Pioneer DEH-80PRS accept passive or active subwoofer
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WTB: JBL MS8
Product Brand & Model:
JBL MS8
Condition of all items:
New, Refurb or Used
Total Price: :
Price Negotiable
Shipping Terms: :
I will pay shipping
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
JBL MS8
Condition of all items:
New, Refurb or Used
Total Price: :
Price Negotiable
Shipping Terms: :
I will pay shipping
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
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Hello from The Atlanta Area
Hi, im Erick Markland from Atlanta, Ga. Im in the 12v industry currently and decided to give it a shot on DIYMA, and so far im loving it.
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gonna take on my first fiberglassing project... Apillars
first I picked up a few extra sets of pillar covers from the junk heap.
I'm going to be building in a ppi midrange and tweet from their 3 way setup.
I have not tested direcctional firing options just yet but I'm excited about building these a pillars myself.
Basically, I'm asking for any pertinent and helpful advise, tips, or tricks that yall would bestow.
So far I've just been watching youtube after youtube for guidance.
Thanks for any assistance.
I'm going to be building in a ppi midrange and tweet from their 3 way setup.
I have not tested direcctional firing options just yet but I'm excited about building these a pillars myself.
Basically, I'm asking for any pertinent and helpful advise, tips, or tricks that yall would bestow.
So far I've just been watching youtube after youtube for guidance.
Thanks for any assistance.
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for the sake of discussion..prv audio amplifiers?
in my morning bordum, I found this.
https://www.parts-express.com/prv-au...fier--267-8014
curious to know if anyone has or might take the chance on this? would love to see what real power is..doubt it is what is stated but one never knows do one.
https://www.parts-express.com/prv-au...fier--267-8014
curious to know if anyone has or might take the chance on this? would love to see what real power is..doubt it is what is stated but one never knows do one.
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