How do you like/feel about the new, ultimate, Facebook spy app? It's not only wrong, but straight-up evil. Think; they have full access not only to our phones, but to our kids phones as well. And once you have "removed" the app, who is to say it's not there? I'm kind-of surprised no one has posted about this, yet.
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New Facebook Messenger
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RE SE-X 15" or DD 500 series 15"
Honest question, two couple year old SE-X's or two 2nd generation 500 series (pre-Redline)? I've purchased two 15 of the DD's, but have the opportunity to buy two RE SE-X 15's for a little bit cheaper and could likely sell the DD's. So of the two, which would I be better served with?
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focal ps165f or hertz hsk165
im choosing between the two, focal will be powered by jx jl amp and the hertz will be powered by HCP4. which of these two is more on the warm side? thanks!
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New Morel MW166-4 ohm 6" Woofers (my auction)
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Monitor 1 MK 4.70
Product Brand & Model:
Monitor 1 MK4.70
Condition of all items:
very good
Total Price: :
125 shipped
Shipping Terms: :
included
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
added soon
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Monitor 1 MK4.70
Condition of all items:
very good
Total Price: :
125 shipped
Shipping Terms: :
included
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
added soon
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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Hi Everybody
Hi I am Shilpa Shree from Bangalore, I am new to this forum site.
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Hey! New to this forum
Just getting back into car audio. Had a few year hiatus but back in full swing.. Here's what I just just got..
Pioneer NEX-4000
Audison LRX 5.1k
Hertz Mille ML 1600 and Ml 280 (Ran active)
2 - JL Audio 10TW3
Next step is stripping the car to dynamat everything.. Then buy an Audison Bit One!! Any tips or advise greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Joey
Pioneer NEX-4000
Audison LRX 5.1k
Hertz Mille ML 1600 and Ml 280 (Ran active)
2 - JL Audio 10TW3
Next step is stripping the car to dynamat everything.. Then buy an Audison Bit One!! Any tips or advise greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Joey
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Speaker Dome differences
This is a question on the different design of centre speaker domes and what affect they have on sound. I see some manufacturers use different design even in the same range of speakers.
Inverted Dome : Utopia no6
Convex dome : Focal 165 KR ; Utopia no7
Aluminium dome (doesn't move I don't think) : Focal 165 krx2 ; 165kr2
Is there a specific reason why they designed differently ?
Inverted Dome : Utopia no6
Convex dome : Focal 165 KR ; Utopia no7
Aluminium dome (doesn't move I don't think) : Focal 165 krx2 ; 165kr2
Is there a specific reason why they designed differently ?
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JL XD600/6 vs Clarion XC6610 to BMW
My car's HU (3-series) has something called "balanced differential output" that the JL can accept... However here in Finland the JL brand is ridicilously expensive and now I'm looking for a 6-ch amp alternative (preferably class D).
Could the Clarion work?
Could the Clarion work?
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Budget SQ Sub Setup for Hatchback - Dayton HO or something else??
I'm looking to set up a new sub. I've already got the amp, speakers, and car:
Amp: Soundstream TN5.950D (same as PPI P900.5, Hertz HDP5, etc) 4x85WRMS @ 4Ohms + 430WRMS @ 2Ohms Sub
Speakers: Polk db6501 components in the front (I'll test these out when they arrive, and if I like them, then I'll get another pair for the rears) 100WRMS, 4Ohms
Car: Ford Focus XR5 (called the ST in the US) Turbo Hatchback 167kW :)
I like all kinds of music, but mostly electronic, eg Crystal Method, Pendulum, Daft Punk, and also soft stuff like Natalie Merchant and Sarah Mclachlan, but also a bit of Slipknot/Metallica and even some dubstep for when I'm feeling angry, and old school rap when I'm feeling nostalgic.
I generally like clarity and crispness between the highs and lows in my music, not a muddy loud mess. I'm looking more for sound quality than super loud booming bass.
After a bit of research, my current plan is to get a Dayton HO DVC, running it at 2Ohms so I can get the maximum power out of my amp (430W RMS). I'm leaning towards the Dayton because it has excellent reviews and isn't ridiculously expensive.
I just have a few questions:
1) Should I get a 10" or 12"? I'm looking for the best sound quality. More output is better, all other things being equal, but I suspect a 10" on 430W will be much more than adequately loud for me.
2) Should I run it ported or sealed? I read that sealed should make the bass more tight, which is what I think I want, but I also read that HO's need more power when sealed, so I'm hoping 430W will be enough.
and,
3) Any other suggestions for a good sub to buy? I've considered the IDQv3 but it's way too expensive (including the $200 postage to get it to Australia, that is). I couldn't come up with anything considered as good as the HO for even close to the same price. Have there been many groundbreaking technological advancements since the HO came out? It must be pretty old by now. Not that I care if it's still the best out there in the budget SQ stakes. Also another plus is that any of the Daytons will only cost me $62 postage, which isn't bad IMO. We don't have as much choice here for brands, unless I want to get killed on postage by most US sellers.
Thanks everyone!!
Amp: Soundstream TN5.950D (same as PPI P900.5, Hertz HDP5, etc) 4x85WRMS @ 4Ohms + 430WRMS @ 2Ohms Sub
Speakers: Polk db6501 components in the front (I'll test these out when they arrive, and if I like them, then I'll get another pair for the rears) 100WRMS, 4Ohms
Car: Ford Focus XR5 (called the ST in the US) Turbo Hatchback 167kW :)
I like all kinds of music, but mostly electronic, eg Crystal Method, Pendulum, Daft Punk, and also soft stuff like Natalie Merchant and Sarah Mclachlan, but also a bit of Slipknot/Metallica and even some dubstep for when I'm feeling angry, and old school rap when I'm feeling nostalgic.
I generally like clarity and crispness between the highs and lows in my music, not a muddy loud mess. I'm looking more for sound quality than super loud booming bass.
After a bit of research, my current plan is to get a Dayton HO DVC, running it at 2Ohms so I can get the maximum power out of my amp (430W RMS). I'm leaning towards the Dayton because it has excellent reviews and isn't ridiculously expensive.
I just have a few questions:
1) Should I get a 10" or 12"? I'm looking for the best sound quality. More output is better, all other things being equal, but I suspect a 10" on 430W will be much more than adequately loud for me.
2) Should I run it ported or sealed? I read that sealed should make the bass more tight, which is what I think I want, but I also read that HO's need more power when sealed, so I'm hoping 430W will be enough.
and,
3) Any other suggestions for a good sub to buy? I've considered the IDQv3 but it's way too expensive (including the $200 postage to get it to Australia, that is). I couldn't come up with anything considered as good as the HO for even close to the same price. Have there been many groundbreaking technological advancements since the HO came out? It must be pretty old by now. Not that I care if it's still the best out there in the budget SQ stakes. Also another plus is that any of the Daytons will only cost me $62 postage, which isn't bad IMO. We don't have as much choice here for brands, unless I want to get killed on postage by most US sellers.
Thanks everyone!!
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Help designing my first active setup
I just picked up my third S2000, and I'm not quite sure how much longer I can live with the factory audio system in place ;)
I currently have a Pioneer 80PRS and a JL XD1000/5v2 and would like to piece together my first active setup. I will be using a 0.8 cubic foot enclosure in the trunk with 1 12" sub (undecided, most likely an ARC unless someone suggests something else). My main concern is, I've never pieced together midrange and tweeters. I've read a lot about the Dayton RS180 + RS28 combo. I also see a lot of people recommending Silver Flutes, Seas Prestige, etc.
The Daytons are appealing because they seem to be an excellent value. I'm all about that, but I don't mind spending a few hundred bucks if there's another "excellent value" in that price range. I really just want something that will be well-balanced with good midbass and not-so-harsh highs. It's going to be tough since the car is so acoustically challenged. I will be installing Raam mat and ensolite in the doors and trunk, so hopefully that will help.
Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you.
I currently have a Pioneer 80PRS and a JL XD1000/5v2 and would like to piece together my first active setup. I will be using a 0.8 cubic foot enclosure in the trunk with 1 12" sub (undecided, most likely an ARC unless someone suggests something else). My main concern is, I've never pieced together midrange and tweeters. I've read a lot about the Dayton RS180 + RS28 combo. I also see a lot of people recommending Silver Flutes, Seas Prestige, etc.
The Daytons are appealing because they seem to be an excellent value. I'm all about that, but I don't mind spending a few hundred bucks if there's another "excellent value" in that price range. I really just want something that will be well-balanced with good midbass and not-so-harsh highs. It's going to be tough since the car is so acoustically challenged. I will be installing Raam mat and ensolite in the doors and trunk, so hopefully that will help.
Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you.
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Sony xe-744
trying to deside if its worth the trouble to install this in my DD.i found it NIB in a old storage tub i have with a SS MC500 & 500sx been in there since i was about 19.just dont know if the quality will be upto par with my other newer equipment.
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A Few Issues With Sub Box I Built
So I have had the new box that I built in the car for about 2 weeks now and it sounds amazing compared to the prefab box that I had before. Every bass note is defined so well now and the sub (Alpine SWR-1223D) hits pretty hard for only running at 300 watts. I have the box tuned to 30Hz because I predominately listen to rap/hip-hop in the car and I love bass.
Anyways, I do have a couple issues with the box...
Biggest issue I have is that the box itself probably weighs 60 lbs (I'd guess) and the sub weighs 25lbs, so it's really heavy. The box is sliding all over the place in my trunk. I haven't put the carpet on yet because I haven't had time to dedicate to putting it on. I'm wondering if just putting the carpet on will help add some friction that will prevent the box from sliding like crazy whenever I make a sharper turn. If not, then what solution should I look into to keep the box from sliding? I want it to be fairly easy to remove still, just incase I get a flat and need to access my spare tire.
The other issue I am having is that I flush mounted the sub, so I have it attached to a piece of 3/4" MDF that forms the inner wall of the box and then another piece of MDF that forms the outer front face. When the sub is hitting pretty hard, I notice the rattle noise that seems to be coming from around the flush mounted face piece. I'm wondering if this is some sort of air leak. I don't notice anything in the cabin as a result of this, but when I open the trunk, you can hear it making this noise. So it's nothing to major, but I'm wondering if just sealing the inner surface where the sub attaches would help with this? Hard to explain that with words.
Appreciate any advice!
Anyways, I do have a couple issues with the box...
Biggest issue I have is that the box itself probably weighs 60 lbs (I'd guess) and the sub weighs 25lbs, so it's really heavy. The box is sliding all over the place in my trunk. I haven't put the carpet on yet because I haven't had time to dedicate to putting it on. I'm wondering if just putting the carpet on will help add some friction that will prevent the box from sliding like crazy whenever I make a sharper turn. If not, then what solution should I look into to keep the box from sliding? I want it to be fairly easy to remove still, just incase I get a flat and need to access my spare tire.
The other issue I am having is that I flush mounted the sub, so I have it attached to a piece of 3/4" MDF that forms the inner wall of the box and then another piece of MDF that forms the outer front face. When the sub is hitting pretty hard, I notice the rattle noise that seems to be coming from around the flush mounted face piece. I'm wondering if this is some sort of air leak. I don't notice anything in the cabin as a result of this, but when I open the trunk, you can hear it making this noise. So it's nothing to major, but I'm wondering if just sealing the inner surface where the sub attaches would help with this? Hard to explain that with words.
Appreciate any advice!
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Advice on my last piece of the system (Sub)
Hi,
I would like to get some insight on how to pick the best Subwoofer for my setup which consists of the following:
GM-D9604 Pioneer Amplifier "Link"
Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 speakers "Link"
Speakers specs:
I have also bought a dual amp wiring kit from Rockford Fosgate which allows me to add another amp if needed (0 gauge), my vision is to have the setup done with a 3x channel, 2 of them running the 6x9 and a single subwoofer, and if the sound doesn't suites me I may add 2x6.5" to the front doors and add a small amp to feed it or hook the main amp as 4 channel and buy a mono amp for a sub.
question is: which Sub should I go for? do I go for a dual 4 ohm or single 4ohm? how much power will my 3rd channel will be able to dash out (RMS)?
I've googled for an answer but the dual coil / single coil part confuses me.
please help
I would like to get some insight on how to pick the best Subwoofer for my setup which consists of the following:
GM-D9604 Pioneer Amplifier "Link"
Pioneer TS-A6995R 6x9 speakers "Link"
Speakers specs:
Size 6" x 9"
Max. Music Power (Nominal) 600 W (100 W)
Cone Material Multilayer Mica Matrix Cone
Frequency Response 27 Hz to 37 kHz
Sensitivity (1 W/1 m) 92 dB
Impedance 4 Ω
Crossover Frequency ―
Mounting Depth 3-3/8"
Cut-Out Dimensions 6" x 8-5/8"
Amp Specs:Max. Music Power (Nominal) 600 W (100 W)
Cone Material Multilayer Mica Matrix Cone
Frequency Response 27 Hz to 37 kHz
Sensitivity (1 W/1 m) 92 dB
Impedance 4 Ω
Crossover Frequency ―
Mounting Depth 3-3/8"
Cut-Out Dimensions 6" x 8-5/8"
Maximum Output Power 4 x 260 W (4Ω)
4 x 400 W (2Ω)
2 x 800 W (4Ω bridged)
CEA 2006 Power (THD + N = 1%) 4 x 130 W (10 Hz - 50 kHz / 4Ω)
2 x 400 W (1 kHz / 4Ω bridged)
4 x 200 W (1 kHz / 2Ω)
75 dBA (ref: 1 W into 4Ω)
Continuous power output (RMS)4 x 100 W (20 Hz - 20 kHz)
4 x 150 W (1 kHz / 2Ω)
4 x 125 W (1 kHz / 1Ω)
2 x 300 W (1 kHz / 4Ω bridge)
2 x 250 W (1 kHz / 2Ω bridge)
Frequency response10 - 50000 Hz
Distortion< 0.05 %
S/N ratio> 95 dB
LPF40 - 500 Hz (-12 dB/oct)
HPF40 - 500 Hz (-12 dB/oct)
4 x 400 W (2Ω)
2 x 800 W (4Ω bridged)
CEA 2006 Power (THD + N = 1%) 4 x 130 W (10 Hz - 50 kHz / 4Ω)
2 x 400 W (1 kHz / 4Ω bridged)
4 x 200 W (1 kHz / 2Ω)
75 dBA (ref: 1 W into 4Ω)
Continuous power output (RMS)4 x 100 W (20 Hz - 20 kHz)
4 x 150 W (1 kHz / 2Ω)
4 x 125 W (1 kHz / 1Ω)
2 x 300 W (1 kHz / 4Ω bridge)
2 x 250 W (1 kHz / 2Ω bridge)
Frequency response10 - 50000 Hz
Distortion< 0.05 %
S/N ratio> 95 dB
LPF40 - 500 Hz (-12 dB/oct)
HPF40 - 500 Hz (-12 dB/oct)
I have also bought a dual amp wiring kit from Rockford Fosgate which allows me to add another amp if needed (0 gauge), my vision is to have the setup done with a 3x channel, 2 of them running the 6x9 and a single subwoofer, and if the sound doesn't suites me I may add 2x6.5" to the front doors and add a small amp to feed it or hook the main amp as 4 channel and buy a mono amp for a sub.
question is: which Sub should I go for? do I go for a dual 4 ohm or single 4ohm? how much power will my 3rd channel will be able to dash out (RMS)?
I've googled for an answer but the dual coil / single coil part confuses me.
please help
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been out of it for awhile, need input
So, I am going to try to keep this short. Bear with me.
I used to be very into car audio, then I was out of it for awhile.
The last system I had sounded great to me, Alpine head unit, Ascendant Audio Assassin 10" sub, JBL speakers. I thought it sounded perfect.
That was my last vehicle though, I never reinstalled into new truck.
The stuff sat in my closet for years. My brother asked me to help him with a system for his truck. I sold him my stuff for a good price, but kept the head unit.
As soon as it was installed and I heard how it sounded, I became instantly depressed. It sounded great. I immediately wanted all of my stuff back. I didn't realize how much I missed it.
Since I can't just take it back, I want to take this one step at time. I want to purchase a 10" Ascendant Audio Assassin. But it seems like their website is under construction. I don't even know if they make Assassins anymore. Mine was completely blank. No logo or anything.
So I went to my old car audio forum, caraudio.com, and it doesn't even seem to be active anymore. I can't tell, I'm no computer expert. But it seems like it isn't formatted or anything anymore. So I've posted on a couple others that I have found, now including this one.
Sorry to come here and vent, I just needed to get this off my chest. I feel like an idiot for letting my stuff go. Any input/advice would be appreciated. If I could just get another of the same sub, I'd feel better about at least making progress.
I used to be very into car audio, then I was out of it for awhile.
The last system I had sounded great to me, Alpine head unit, Ascendant Audio Assassin 10" sub, JBL speakers. I thought it sounded perfect.
That was my last vehicle though, I never reinstalled into new truck.
The stuff sat in my closet for years. My brother asked me to help him with a system for his truck. I sold him my stuff for a good price, but kept the head unit.
As soon as it was installed and I heard how it sounded, I became instantly depressed. It sounded great. I immediately wanted all of my stuff back. I didn't realize how much I missed it.
Since I can't just take it back, I want to take this one step at time. I want to purchase a 10" Ascendant Audio Assassin. But it seems like their website is under construction. I don't even know if they make Assassins anymore. Mine was completely blank. No logo or anything.
So I went to my old car audio forum, caraudio.com, and it doesn't even seem to be active anymore. I can't tell, I'm no computer expert. But it seems like it isn't formatted or anything anymore. So I've posted on a couple others that I have found, now including this one.
Sorry to come here and vent, I just needed to get this off my chest. I feel like an idiot for letting my stuff go. Any input/advice would be appreciated. If I could just get another of the same sub, I'd feel better about at least making progress.
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Help with configuration using MS-8
Hey guys,
I'm currently running 2 way active with a couple subs in the trunk in my 99' Camry. I have the MS-8 hooked up to my 80prs via a pair of RCA's. From the MS-8 i have RCA's for channels 1-4 running to my 4 channel amp to power my tweets and mids, I am using channels 7-8 via RCA to my mono block for the subs.
I hooked up my rear coaxial speakers to channels 5-6 via speaker level inputs. I then attempted to run the input/out setup on the MS-8, I put 2 subs for subs option, 2-way for front, it then asks for center and gives me the option to choose from 1-way,2-way or none, I chose none. For sides it gives me the option for 1 speaker or none, I chose none. When I chose the option for rear my only option is none. Where did I go wrong? Do i need to use different channels than 5-6 for speaker level? Can i not use speaker level when using RCA's? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm currently running 2 way active with a couple subs in the trunk in my 99' Camry. I have the MS-8 hooked up to my 80prs via a pair of RCA's. From the MS-8 i have RCA's for channels 1-4 running to my 4 channel amp to power my tweets and mids, I am using channels 7-8 via RCA to my mono block for the subs.
I hooked up my rear coaxial speakers to channels 5-6 via speaker level inputs. I then attempted to run the input/out setup on the MS-8, I put 2 subs for subs option, 2-way for front, it then asks for center and gives me the option to choose from 1-way,2-way or none, I chose none. For sides it gives me the option for 1 speaker or none, I chose none. When I chose the option for rear my only option is none. Where did I go wrong? Do i need to use different channels than 5-6 for speaker level? Can i not use speaker level when using RCA's? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Pioneer deh-80prs settings
Hi,
I just purchased one of these and wanted a little help with the settings below.
Hpf 12 or 6db octave or pass
Lpf 12 or 6db octave
And anything else to make it sound crisper. I am not great with gains so what would be a good staring point ( as in 9 o'clock etc ) on the ipaul
The fronts are hertz hi energys hsk 165 in passive, bridged on rainbow ipaul 4.300
The subs are hertz 12" running off a hertz he1d
I just purchased one of these and wanted a little help with the settings below.
Hpf 12 or 6db octave or pass
Lpf 12 or 6db octave
And anything else to make it sound crisper. I am not great with gains so what would be a good staring point ( as in 9 o'clock etc ) on the ipaul
The fronts are hertz hi energys hsk 165 in passive, bridged on rainbow ipaul 4.300
The subs are hertz 12" running off a hertz he1d
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SQ HDS312's vs IA Lethal Injection 12's
Hi, guys. I'm probably going to switch my single OA 15 out for two twelves. Just want to try something new. Maybe fit a little more cone area i my trunk. I was pretty much decided on getting two new Soundqubed HDS312's. Browsing Craigslist today, I found two Incriminator Audio Lethal Injections and a box for $275. I believe they are the older ones which are 600 watts rms. If I went with the Lethal Injections I would sell the box and build my own. I have a little over 4 cubes net to work with. It'll all be ran off a PPI 1300.1D @ one ohm. Looking to tune around 31 or 32 hz. I love the lows and listen to mostly rap. A lot of Decaf. What would you guys recommend? Which would be loudest? Which would sound the best with the space given and the tuning? Which would be the best bang for my buck? All is going in the trunk of a 2003 Audi A4.
$320 SQ HDS3 12's vs $275 600 watt IA Lethal Injection 12's
$320 SQ HDS3 12's vs $275 600 watt IA Lethal Injection 12's
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WTB: Alpine 6663 or 6660 Coaxial Speakers
Looking to buy a set of old school Alpine 6663, or 6660, 6.5" coaxial speakers.
thanks
thanks
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How To Connect 2 Digital Sources to Arc Audio PS8?
Looking for some technical suggestions on the following:
I'm going to be changing my DSP soon to an Arc Audio PS8.
My primary audio source will be a MoBridge DA1 preamp which has an Optical Output.
Audison is about to start shipping their new media player, the BitPlay HD in October. I want to add one of these to my car, too. The BitPlay also has an Optical output.
However, the PS8 only has 1 Optical input and 1 SP/DIF coaxial input for digital signals.
I think it is possible to connect one device to Optical, and one to SP/DIF coaxial and then switch between them on presets in the DSP. But how do I convert an Optical signal to Coax? Is there an Optical to SP/DIF adapter device that works without any D/A conversion? Or do I need to get an outboard D/A converter and then use the PS8's analog inputs for one of the sources?
If I must go the D/A converter route, which one is recommended these days for car use?
I'm going to be changing my DSP soon to an Arc Audio PS8.
My primary audio source will be a MoBridge DA1 preamp which has an Optical Output.
Audison is about to start shipping their new media player, the BitPlay HD in October. I want to add one of these to my car, too. The BitPlay also has an Optical output.
However, the PS8 only has 1 Optical input and 1 SP/DIF coaxial input for digital signals.
I think it is possible to connect one device to Optical, and one to SP/DIF coaxial and then switch between them on presets in the DSP. But how do I convert an Optical signal to Coax? Is there an Optical to SP/DIF adapter device that works without any D/A conversion? Or do I need to get an outboard D/A converter and then use the PS8's analog inputs for one of the sources?
If I must go the D/A converter route, which one is recommended these days for car use?
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