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How to delete threads

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Sorry for the noobery.. I've searched around quite a bit, can't seem to figure out how to delete threads.. I have threads in both the classifieds, as well as a few of the various forums.. Many I would like to delete, just can't seem to figure it out..

Thanks in advance!

AMP: Arc Audio XDi1200.6 Or 2 PPI's

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I have all my equipment except for my amp, and a maybe some smaller cabling pieces. I have my choices just about narrowed down to the Arc audio XDi1200.6 or PPI 1000.1 AND PPI 900.4. The 2 PPI amps together would cost me about $450 while the Arc audio would be closer to $850, maybe a little more.

Is the cost difference worth it? What would be the pro's of the ARC? The ARC has a little more Power but 5v per channel seems pretty negligible and the fact that it would have a smaller footprint in my limited space truck is appealing , but not $400 appealing in of itself.

Side Question: If running 2-way Active to the front would I turn the gain down on the tweeter channels or do this in the dsp? Tweeters are rated for 15w RMS while Mids are rated at 150w RMS.

MiniDSP 2x4 questions

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Hello all, I'm getting ready to install a MiniDSP 2x4 with the DC Isolator in my car. I have two questions regarding how to connect it and would appreciate some feedback.

1) When connecting the Power of the MiniDSP from a fused-distribution block what size fuse should I put inline with the MiniDSP?

2) I bought the kit and need to Build an enclosure for it, would there be any issues if the enclosure I built was made of wood? MDF to be specific.

Trying to get back into the car audio scene

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Hey guys, not new to reading the DIYMA community, but I finally decided to start posting in here.

Always been a fan of Car audio, but just recently starting to get back into it. I started helping friends with sub/speaker installs back in high school, that lead to me pursuing electrical engineering in college, and now here I am working as a EE for an automotive supplier.

Now that I can afford some decent equipment, I'm really looking forward to upgrading the sound in my 2009 GTI. Be on the lookout for a "help me choose my equipment" thread from me, haha.

If any other Vdubbers have any advice for the MK5 platform, I'm all ears!
And if anyone's around the Metro Detroit area, give me a shout! I'd like to finally start hearing some good installs in person rather than just reading about them on the interwebs.

Is my amp getting hot just because i'm in Texas???

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Ok, so i'm not totally serious....however! Coming from home in NY my amp(Arc Xdiv2 1200.6) was perfect, never got more than slightly warm, outside temps in the mid 80's, amp performed flawlessly. Now, being in Texas a little over a month, it's acting funny...or i think it is.

Amp is noticeably warmer when running and not blasting, i mean low volume. And it's uncomfortable to put my hand on it. Amp is mounted in the trunk, Power and rca's pointing straight down with plenty of ventilation. Also, i have to turn the volume up much more to get the same results as before, which is to say i can have a conversation with my passenger still. So, not cranking it.

Could the higher ambient temperature be having that much of an affect?

FS: DYNAMAT XTreme Free shipping

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Product Brand & Model:

Dynamat XTreme

Condition of all items:

7 New 1' by 3' feet sheets

Total Price: : $80= 7 sheets (21 s/f shipped free)


Shipping Terms: : FREE USPS US Only



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

HAT Clarus?

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I am replacing my 10 year old QSD's with a new set of components. I really would like an improvement in the mid bass region. My doors are fully treated by the SDS treatment. I will be using a Sundown 100.4 to Power them. Haven't decided if I'm going active. I am curious on how the mid bass of the Clarus is. I am pretty set between these and the Hertz HSK XLs. Price is pretty much the same from authorized dealers. Anyone have experience with both, and if so, which produces the lower frequencies better? Thanks.

Building fiberglass door pods ....

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Yep ... I'm building these for the Pauper Prelude:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...nclosures.html

And I have been out of the Car audio scene for about 7 years. My wife is ill, and my budget is low. So I could use any suggestions you can give me, on places to source the fiberglass supplies for this project, at the best pricing. Thank you for your help.

Grill for Audible Physics RAM3A

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Product Brand & Model:
WTB:
Audible Physics
RAM3A
Grills only.


Condition of all items:
New


Total Price: :
$$


Shipping Terms: :
Will Pay


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:
Not sure if there was a grill as an option for the RAM3.
I've seen some members with grills for these.

So please help me get my grill on. :laugh::D



** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Power and ground connections on removable amp rack

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Looking for suggestions and opinions on the best way to handle the 1/0 AWG Power and ground connections to my amp rack that I intend to be easily removable.

The set screw compression inputs on my distribution blocks is easy enough but after a few disconnects and reconnects the strands are fraying and difficult to squeeze them back into the opening without having stray ones. I'm thinking put ring terminals on the Power and ground in the vehicle and use one of the below options.

Ideally, someone would make a fused distribution block with a ring input, but the only one I've seen is a Streetwires one that is impossible to find.

So, what I've thought of is:
Option 1
A battery junction box with a threaded stud and use a short jumper from the stud to the existing distro block. I just haven't found one I liked the looks of that is covered and will accept 1/0 AWG Wire through the cover.

Option 2
Streetwires does make a distribution block that is a single ring input and 4 x 4 AWG out or 3 x 1/0 AWG out. I could get single inline fuse blocks for each of my amps or just use a single output and keep my existing block.

Option 3
Use these high current disconnects.
SMH SY175 Series 1/0 AWG 175A Breakaway DC Power Connector But these seem too bulky for what I want.

I'm leaning toward option 2, but I am hoping someone here has an elegant solution that I haven't thought of.

6to8 and REW advice?

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Ok, so very new to the 6to8 and REW as well.

Using a Dayton UMM usb mic w/calibration file and using FOCAL test disc Pink Noise track I came up with this measurement (I did have other measurements but this was the general average after about 20 minutes)...1/6 smoothing




From past SPL comp measurements my cabin seems to peak at 49 HZ so I expected to see the peak there around 49. I am curious as to the peak around 24 HZ? I did have Car on, and myself seated to simulate my normal listening conditions. Is it possible the Car engine being idle is creating that 24HZ peak? Ironically I also have the amp SSF around 24 HZ (sealed enclosure so maybe I should just bypass ssf altogether? )...interesting that it peaks there?

Also, I tried everything aI could to tame that 49 HZ peak, using sub/mid crossover at 60HZ first, then 80HZ...but almost zero change. I then tried to lower the 50HZ band in the 6to8 EQ, again almost zero change. Then I tried using the PEQ (45HZ, 50HZ then 65 HZ), which admittedly I do not know how to use properly, but even that produced almost zero change no matter if I maxed out or minused out...possibly a db or two change overall... Then tried to raise 80HZ band, and raise PEQ around there as well...again, made no beneficial difference.

I do believe I am experiencing a null in this 60-70HZ area, because I have gone through several different setups - speakers, subs (ported & sealed, single 15", dual 12"), crossovers etc and I just cannot seem to get this region sounding just right. Tones just sound dull and anemic. Everything else I feel sounds amazing. Car is well deadened (cld, ccf, mlv doors, floor, partial roof etc) Mostly no vibrations.

Especially after going active and dialing in the Time Alignment with the 6to8 this by far has been my favorite setup...just that stupid 60-70 range kills me!

I know my overall curve needs some tweeks, perhaps some pointers on where I should adjust?

Thanks in advance!

SouthSyde!

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You are the man!


That is all. Carry on.

PG elite.4 - elite.2

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In the process of selling my old Saab due to age (it's 15) and mostly rust thus selling off the stereo stuff I will not use.

I have two Phoenix gold elite amp, their elite.2 and elite.4

The elite.2 ran a single hybrid audio Clare's 10 - yes gains were way down for the last probably two years. Prior to that I used a morel ultimo 12

The elite.4 ran hertz Mille ml 1600/280 and focal poly glass 6x9's in the rear for the kids.

Both Amos are in great shape, the way they were mounted they were never touched with stuff in the hatch I was hauling. There are the typical marks where the screws attatck the amp but otherwise they are A+

If I recall birth sheet states 180x4 and 308x2 at 4 ohms.... I will attatck pics later. Everything is included with the amps except on one of them.... The wrenches you use to tighten/looses the power/ground/remote I do not have, I only have the tool for the Speaker inputs. The other amp has all three....

Cost wise I honestly do not know the going rate for them, thus I will start at $800 each plus shipping. I am very motivated to sell

Payment wise I can accept PayPal (haven't used it in a long time), certified check or credit card. I own my own business and can run the card through there if needed





** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Audison bit one help

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I recently aquired a bit one , I installed it bnib in a customer Car , he hooked up his pc to it and returned to the shop and it has no audio and his pc won't connect , I haven't tryed connect a diffrent pc or tryed anything yet , I was able to get it for a very good price used , so is there a reset on this somewhere or is there any known issues or resolutions for no audio . Unit powers up just fine . Thanks in advance

double din suggestion

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I am looking for a double din suggestion

as cheap as possible as long as it has 3 things

1. rear camera input
2. blue tooth
3. time alignment

WTB 2000W into 2Ohm small amp.

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Product Brand & Model:

show me what you got

Condition of all items:

beat up is OK

Total Price: :

TBD

Shipping Terms: :



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:


I`m looking for efficient amplifier capable of delivering 2000 real watt into 2 Ohm load. used is OK, in fact I don`t care if it`s old or scratched or even working. tell me what you got and we`ll go from there.





** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

2015 Street Glide audio upgrade question

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I just picked up a 2015 Harley Street Glide with the basic BOOM audio system. I am looking to upgrade the audio system. I have some old school PPI Amps. I am looking at using a 2025AM amp ( 25x2) or maybe a 2050m ( 50x2) Could I use a smaller amp in my motorcycle system?

Tim

2014 Toyota Avalon - Build Log

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I am starting to buy/build for my new 2014 Toyota Avalon. This Car is a big step up for me. I had a 2002 Toyota Camry, bought new in 2001, and put in a stereo system of old and new school products. I finally had to let the Camry go as it was 2500 miles shy of 200,000. Cost of repairs was getting close to an average $250 a month so I took out that system, sold most of the components off and bought the Avalon. From the factory this Car is quiet. I hear an occasional buzz sound of plastic rubbing from the rear deck. Not sure what that is but I will find out soon when I take it apart to deaden the car even more that it is now.

As of today, here is my design. Subject to change pending availability, location issues, etc.


H/U: Factory OEM
Front speakers - Dash: Illusion audio C3X
Front speakers - Door: Illusion audio C8
Rear Speakers - Door: Not Used
Rear Speakers - Deck: Illusion Audio E69X
Amp/DSP: Audison Prima AP4.9bit
Ch 1/2 on Illusion Audio C3X
Ch 3/4 on Illusion Audio E69X
Amp: Audison Prima AP4D
Ch 1/2 bridge to left Illusion Audio C8
Ch 3/4 bridge to right Illusion Audio C8
Amp: Audison Prima AP1D
Running 2 ohm to JL Audio 12W6v3 in 1cu ft sealed box
Just bought this sub from a fellow forum member
Sound Deadener - CLD: KnuKonceptz Kolossus (On Order)
Sound Deadener - MLV: TBD
Sound Deadener - CCF: TBD

Wiring: TBD

I am going for a good SQ system that has clarity and depth but not having to customize the car to fully fit everything. Budget is a concern, but I will spend a little more to get a better system if needed. All the components so far should fit factory locations, but I will be doing some investigating before I buy each component. I will post pics of panels being removed, locations of equipment, etc, when I get around to it.

Keep in mind, this Build my take anywhere from 3-9 months depending on my personal schedule. Having two young boys in sports year round now, keeps me pretty busy plus work and church.

I hope everyone enjoys this Build and it helps others when buying an upgraded and much needed audio system for this car.

Full size conversion van sub blend help?

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Hello All,

I've searched the forum to death but have found little guidance so...

Long time lurker, first time question. Love this place, like many of you I've spent many late nights reading diyma till I'm blurry.

Hoping someone with some van experience (or even a good theory) can give some input about options to replace my sub set up.

1986 GMC G20 van with fully upholstered interior and shag carpet. In other words a very dead environment.

I'm running 3 way active w/pioneer 80PRS. Using HAT Clarus 6.5 components in custom pods on the front doors, powered by a JBL GTO 75x4.

Alpine PDX-1.1000 sub amp, 1k at 2/4 ohm.

I've run a Type R for years in a proper built-to-spec vented box, rear-firing in the back corner, sounded just OK to rock out but not SQ by any stretch.
Ready to do something different [meaning-I broke it].

I'd like to get a good blend with the fronts. FWIW I like to hear the strings in jazz and funk, feel the wobble in EDM and rage with the kick in hard rock. And I'm not shy with the volume knob.

Was about to step up to a quality mid-priced 12 and a larger well made vented box in the same location, but wondered if I should use a different approach given the application?

Does my large well damped cabin warrant any obvious choices/limitations?

I have a good handle on sealed vs ported in standard Car apps but does that change for me?

The teenager inside my 40 year old body says FTW go big 15 ported! But the engineer in me says wait, what does science have to say?

10's sealed? 12 sealed?

How about something in a center console box between the front seats firing down. Sealed? Ported forward? (really curious about this one).

Not seeking brand advice, looking at quality stuff in the $400-500 range.

Thanks for any assistance!

Jim in Motown

2002 Toyota Camry LE - Build Log (Never Posted in 2008)

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Here is my Build for my old 2002 Toyota Camry. Thought I would at least show off my work. Not to the caliber of others, but I thought it was decent. The end result was incredible. The sound quality was one of the best I have done and my Avalon Build will need to rival that or better.

System Design:
H/U: Kenwood Excelon DDX812
DSP: Zapco DSP-6
Amp - Front Speakers: MTX Thunder 6304 (Old School)
Front Speaker: Zapco Black in Biamp
Amp - Sub: MTX Thunder 6152 (Old School)
Subwoofer: JL audio 10w1 (1st Version - Old School)
Each sub was in a separate .75 cu ft sealed box
Rear Speakers: MB Quart
Powered by H/U
I have sold this car, but I really miss it. It was an awesome system. I could listen for hours in this car. The amazing thing, were the subs. The 2 JL audio 10w1 subs sounded just as good as the day I bought them back in 1995 for my Ford Probe. Those subs have been in three different cars. Each time, I am amazed at the tightness and accuracy of the bass from these. I just wish I could give up that much space in the new car.

I hope you enjoy the pics.
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