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Can I fit 2 SQ HDS312's with these dimensions?

July 14, 2015, 6:58 pm
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I have a 85 Monte Carlo SS that I'm trying to do a trunk Build for. I already have 2 SQ subs, but I think I'm having issues seeing how they will fit. This is just a rough mock up process, as I haven't even sounddeadened the trunk yet, let alone an enclosure built, but I'm just thinking ahead.

Here is the area I have to work with:

12 3/4 H
41 3/4 L
21 3/4 D

I can get enough volume (I think), but with a height of maybe 12 3/4 max, can I even fit the cutout diameter on the face? I assume I could go subs up, port back, but I really wanted the subs facing back.

The sub frame floor is 1/2 birch, the supports are 3 3/4, and the false floor that the box will sit on is 1/2 birch. The side panels are 1/2 and the "lifting" part will be 1/2 as well.



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Hybrid Audio Unity

July 14, 2015, 7:25 pm
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This is the listing for my brand new in box/never used Hybrid audio Unity 6.5" component speakers.

Feel free to visit here:

Hybrid audio Unity 6 5" Component speakers New | eBay
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Double DIN advice

July 14, 2015, 7:29 pm
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Wanted Boston Acoustics 6.5 component sets

July 14, 2015, 7:35 pm
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I am in search of some Boston Acoustic SL60 or the SR60 component set[s]. If you have any to sell please let me know and we can talk about price including shipping. I can do local pickup if we are in the same city or within reasonable driving distance.


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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I got my car repaired - Look at what they did!!!!

July 14, 2015, 8:59 pm
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Very minor scrape. We were in St. Louis in a downtown hotel in the parking garage. I went to check out and wait for her and saw some lady head up the ramp straddling both lanes. I just knew. But the garage door closed and I couldn't see anything. About 30 seconds later my wife came down and said the lady was going up the middle (blind ramp) and she have to veer to miss her and just kissed the wall. Not too bad. But, I have to pay for it out of pocket because my wife didn't let her hit us. Oh well......

Here is the damage. The black is the color of the plastic underneath.


So, my sister works at CarStar. The one guy I have ALWAYS trusted with my cars retired from doing it on the side. So, I went to her place. This is what I picked up today. :mad::mad::mad:

I though they knew the color was RED not RED with a Black hue....





The broke part of it removing it......

Left side that was repaired



Right side and how it is supposed to look



Jagged Edge....beat up from removal?



Chip in the corner by the silver fog lamp in the corner (hard to see)


Gouge in the bumper from removing ground piece


Funniest part....in the sunlight, they added metallic to the paint. It shimmers!!! Also, the part that was jacked up looks good (other than the metallic paint) and the part that was fine to begin with looks the worst.

WTF, was the painter blind?????

I am waiting to hear, but they said they would make it right and that they will probably order a new piece that comes already painted.
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Setting gains in active setup

July 14, 2015, 9:10 pm
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Hey guys, quick couple questions.

I am running an active setup with a Pioneer head unit (4700bs) and a JL xd600/6. When I try to set the gains, I turn the deck up to 75 % and try to read the output on the amp with a multimeter. I can get a reading but it is jumping all over the place 18, then down to 12, then 14, etc. I tried 2 different meters same thing. any ideas?

I am playing a test tone 1khz trying to do it. does it matter that I am running active and have crossovers set at 80 and 5000hz for the mid pass and the same for the tweeter crossed over at 5k?

any help would be much appreciated.
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Stinger SPI-500 Inverter

July 14, 2015, 9:36 pm
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Anybody have one of these go up in smoke for no verifiable reason, and not pop the fuse ?

Fuse was proper value, wondering if anybody else experienced this ?
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Vifa/Peerless Tweeter Grille Options

July 14, 2015, 9:53 pm
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I have these Vifa tweeters. I would like to protect them somehow.
I saw some sleek, simple protectors on a similar model in photo 2. Does anybody know if this is available for mine?
I found another option as a last resort in photo 3. It is the same outer diameter as mine. I will be using a couple tiny dabs of silicone, not the giant clamps. But I think it will still look chintzy.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Tweeter xt25tg30.jpg (68.6 KB)
File Type: jpg tweeterguard.jpg (62.3 KB)
File Type: jpg 102mmgrille.JPG (36.8 KB)
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Sonata install

July 14, 2015, 10:26 pm
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Hello everyone,

I am getting ready to install an upgrade to my Sonata, using the factory navigation head unit. I will be using s McIntosh mc 431 4 channel amp and a JBL MS-8 DSP. The Sonata has 6.5 inch door speakers (4 total) 3.5" dash speakers and a 8" rear deck mounted sub. I plan on removing the sub and using a 10" a/d/s/ RS10 in a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure. Not sure what i want to do about the rest of the car's speakers.

I'm looking for recommendations on the following:
1. Should I use the 4 McIntosh channels for front door and dash speakers?
2. I have a 5 channel Alpine class D (PDX V-9) I could use for the rear doors and sub, but would this cancel out the sound quality of the McIntosh?
3. I was considering mounting everything on a board mounted on top of the spare tire. Any suggestions are welcomed.
4. Does anyone know what size fuse the McIntosh needs?

Thanks

Wadester

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20150714_212330.jpg (47.3 KB)
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DSP w/wo amp

July 14, 2015, 10:39 pm
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Ok, I am needing some advice. I am spinning my head trying to figure this out. I am looking at putting in a new system in my new 2014 Toyota Avalon. I have a sub on its way and I think I have the front and rear speakers determined. Now I need to look at integrating with the OEM head unit and using a DSP to reset factory EQ and EQ system at the same time. Here are my options.

Preferred setup is :
Audison AP4.9Bit 9 Ch DSP w/ 70w x 4 Amp (Running Mid/Hi Front & Rears)
w/ Audison AP4D 70w x 4 Amp (Bridged to 2 ch to run 8" Midbass in door)
w/ Audison AP1D 520w x 1 @ 2ohm (Right size for 12" sub I have)

This is suppose to reset Factory EQ, and some tuning capability. My issue is I am seeing some negative things about Audison and want to make sure this is the best route.

Some additional options:

Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 (Minus: No Amp, No Parametric, Need Amps)
Helix DSP PRO 10 (Minus: Expensive, No Amp, No Re-EQ of factory EQ)
Helix P Six DSP (Minus: No enough Power for 8" Midbass, No Re-EQ of factory EQ)
Arc audio PS8 (Minus: Software is a little clunky, No Re-EQ of factory EQ)
Zapco DSP-Z8 (Minus: Rumors Zapco isn't as good as it once was, No Amp)
Mosconi D2100.4 (Minus: No Re-EQ of Factory EQ, need more amps)

If I am missing another brand or need to rethink this, please feel free to chime in.

Thanks,
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WTB: Alpine PDX V9

July 15, 2015, 7:55 am
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Hey all,

Looking for an amplifier for a friend of mine.

Product Brand & Model:
Alpine PDX V9 5ch Amplifier



Condition of all items:
BNIB/LNIB/Good Condition (8/10)


Total Price: :
Can be discussed


Shipping Terms: :
On seller


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:
Requring PDX amplifier for a friend. Should be in reasonable condition. Budget is restricted somehow so send in your offers and we may discuss over PM. :)

Thanks

Yawar







** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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Posting in the Classifieds

July 15, 2015, 8:04 am
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How come I can't post in the classifieds section tried looking through the rules and I must be missing something why I'm not allowed please advise

Thanks ahead
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Help selecting a sub system from Crutchfied

July 15, 2015, 8:43 am
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hi all. I've got a gift card from crutchfield rewards and am debating between 2 options.

Currently have a sealed 12" box with garbage everything. Pyle 1200w max 12" (don't know rms, don't even know how it's wired) and powerbase 300.2 amp to it bridged.

Will be getting an amp and sub(s).

Can either use my current sealed 12" box and get one sub and amp, or spend a bit more and upgrade to 2 subs.

Trying to keep costs low, I've picked out 2 possibilities.

Sound Ordnance M-1500 500w x1 @ 2ohm
Can't post links yet.

Together with a Kicker 40CWR124
(or perhaps a cheaper sub that demands less power)


Or

Same amp powering this enclosure.

MTX RTL12X2D

Car is a 2013 Hyundai Sonata
Stock head unit and speakers, current sub/amp wired in w 8ga ground/power.

I guess I'm asking, what would you do? Gotta be from crutchfield since gotta use a gift card.

Other ideas welcomed.

Edit: I am trying to keep costs down. The mtx enclosure with the above amp comes to 340, which is about my limit currently.
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Help with sub

July 15, 2015, 8:57 am
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Hey Guys,

I currently have Focal PS 165's in the doors in my s2000 pushed by a JL audio 300/4.

I Also have a JL audio 500/1 that was pushing a Boston Acoustics G310-44 that recently died on me.

I have bene looking around at some budget subs that will get the job done. I want to say >$100.00.

The sub does not need to be shallow mount and will be sitting in a sealed custom fiberglass enclosure that I made. Also prefer something with a nice discrete grill that will cover the full sub.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Anyone interested in a Group Buy on the Aurasound NS18-992-4A?

July 15, 2015, 9:45 am
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Parts-Express recently got some new stock of Aura Sound's NS18 woofer. This woofer is the flagship of Aura's offerings. This woofer is a beast in size and most likely wouldn't fit in most cars just due to the enclosure/woofer size (sealed enclosure size is at least 3-4 cubes). But, there are a couple folks on the PE forum who are interested in it for home use and I'm trying to organize a GB on it if I can get some more interest to get the price lower.

The drive unit is here:
Aurasound NS18-992-4A


Pricing would probably be in the $630-640 ballpark. About a $150 savings (~20% off). Not cheap and not small but if there any interested here, PM me or email me at hardisj@gmail.com.
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Escort Passport 8500X50 $159

July 15, 2015, 9:54 am
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Dayton Low Profile Shallow Subwoofers 10" & 12" - $90 & $100

July 15, 2015, 10:39 am
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best equipment for sound quality?

July 15, 2015, 10:44 am
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looking to upgrade what I have in my range rover.

mostly interested in best sound quality available, not too concerned about how loud it is.

also, would like something that would have a minimum affect on my Car
(i.e. i can revert back to the stock equipment easy when it's time to sell)
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Not new, but new.

July 15, 2015, 12:11 pm
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Hello everyone.

I've been on here a couple of years reading posts, mostly Build logs, but I've never posted anything. I think I first signed up so I could see some Build log photos that I needed to be logged in to see. I figured I should finally actually post something especially since the build log for my own Car will be on here in a few weeks. :)

I've been into Car audio for nearly two decades, but I never actually had a system of my own until I purchased a truck with a system already installed in 2010. Sadly that truck was totaled 10 months after I purchased it, but I pulled all the equipment before the insurance company hauled it off. Some of that equipment went into my next truck, some of it wouldn't fit. I ended up purchasing a new car just before Thanksgiving last year, and the system didn't stay stock for long. I'm not happy with the level of sq or equipment, but I installed equipment I had collected over the years because I had it laying around and it's far better than stock. I'm also not happy with the install due to my limited capabilities, time, tools, and area to work on my car. So, it's getting completely redone late August.

I look forward to being more apart of the forums instead of just looking around!
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ZAPCO amp goes into Protect Mode on Hot Days Only--HELP NEEDED

July 15, 2015, 1:30 pm
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I'm hoping someone can help me diagnose this problem so I don't have to send the amp off for repair. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I have a ZAPCO ST-1 driving a pre-boxed 8" JL sub and two ZAPCO ST-4X's driving the main speakers in my truck.

The ST-1 and the ST-4X's are all powered from a single distribution block (battery>0-gauge>block>3x4-gauge) and grounded separately (4-gauge>cab floor). All three get REM 12v Power from an Audison BitOne.

I installed all of them in a new truck in February, when temperatures were cool here in Louisiana. The amps worked fine until June, when outside temps started climbing above 80F.

The ST-4X's continue to work fine. The ST-1, however, goes into protect mode if the temperature inside the truck is 85F or above WHEN I START IT. In the morning, when the ambient temperature is ~75F, the amp starts up fine and continues to work as long as the truck is on. Even if I listen to something heavy on bass (i.e., when you would expect the amp to heat up some), it works fine--as long as it was cool when it started up. Any time the temp inside the truck is 85F or above when I start it, the amp goes into protect mode immediately.

If the truck was hot when I started it (and amp went into protect), if I drive around long enough for the A/C to cool down the cabin, the amp will work if I turn the truck off then on again. Again--seems like as long as the cabin temp (and thus, amp temp) is below 85F at startup, the amp works fine.

I have not noticed any exceptions to these rules, except one: Regardless of how hot the cabin temp is at startup, if I only turn the key part of the way (to "ACC"), but don't start the engine, the amp will work. But if I then start the engine, it will go into protect. My truck is a 2015 Tundra, and when you turn the key from ACC to ON, Power is cut off for an instant and it resets all electronics. When I realized this, I tested the REM power with a voltmeter. With key in the ACC position (motor off), the REM power is 11.8V-12.0V. With engine running, REM power is 13.2V-13.5V. Remember, the REM lead from the BitOne is daisy-chained--all three amps see the same REM voltage.

One other thing worth mentioning... The REM leads from the BitOne are delayed about 4 seconds (i.e., when key is turned, BitOne powers up, waits a few seconds, then turns on REM leads to amps).

I'll try to do some more testing tonight and post any additional info.

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know. Thanks very much.
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