What would be your dream 5.1 home audio if you found yourself with no budget?
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Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk
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No budget 5.1
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Zapco LX fuse ratings
I've been looking at the Zapco LX series amplifier and noticed today in the manual the 150.4 calls for a 150 amp fuse and the 150.6 calls for a 100 amp fuse. Am I missing something or is this incorrect?
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2016 Hyundai Sonata
2016 Hyundai Sonata in for a factory integrated full audio upgrade. Equipment includes JL Audio, MMATS, JBL, Alpine, Illusion Audio and Audiofrog. Noico sound dampening material was also used in all four doors and selected areas of the trunk area.
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The car.
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Factory ground upgrades.
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Factory ground upgrades.
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Power wire connections.
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Speaker wire stuff.
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Wire runs.
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Front door dampening.
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Rear door dampening.
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Amp rack.
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Temporary sub enclosure.
The car.
Factory ground upgrades.
Factory ground upgrades.
Power wire connections.
Speaker wire stuff.
Wire runs.
Front door dampening.
Rear door dampening.
Amp rack.
Temporary sub enclosure.
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Need help with quad cab ram
Hey everyone, been out of the game for a while and desperately need help choosing a set up for my 06 ram quad cab. Was thinking of getting either a Alpine or Pioneer non cd deck. Having trouble deciding on the front components, was thinking Morel tempo ultra 502's, Rockford Fosgate T16-s or Alpine R-s65c. Also need rear door speakers and a sub.
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Final Decisions Opinions Greatly Appreciated
Hey all, I have a few options sitting in my garage and I am trying to finalize what I am going to use. I plan on running an active front stage with a single 10. Thisis what I have:
Headunit: Pioneer P99RS
Front Stage: Audison Voce 6.5
Audison Voce 3.0
Audison Voce 1.1
Sub: JBL Power P1024 (dual 4 ohm)
Amps: (2) Pioneer PRS D800
(1) Pioneer PRS X340 (2 ohm mono stable)
(1) Boston GT4100 (2 ohm mono stable)
(1) Soundstream Reference 644S (2 ohm mono stable)
I was planning to run all 3 Pioneer amps but wasn't sure if I should reconsider. If I do use both Pioneer amps, how should I split up the channels? I was thinking the X340 as a 3-channel with 3&4 running the sub at 2 ohm mono. Then I was thinking I should probably run the tweets off of the channels 1&2. I would then run the 3.0s and the 6.5s off of the two D800s. I know the X340 is pretty underrated, so then I was thinking maybe I should run the X340 to the 6.5s and the sub and the 3.0s and tweets off of the 2 D800s. That or should I use a different combo of amps? Let me know what combo you think I should run. I am planning to make this more of an SQ system. All advice is appreciated.
Headunit: Pioneer P99RS
Front Stage: Audison Voce 6.5
Audison Voce 3.0
Audison Voce 1.1
Sub: JBL Power P1024 (dual 4 ohm)
Amps: (2) Pioneer PRS D800
(1) Pioneer PRS X340 (2 ohm mono stable)
(1) Boston GT4100 (2 ohm mono stable)
(1) Soundstream Reference 644S (2 ohm mono stable)
I was planning to run all 3 Pioneer amps but wasn't sure if I should reconsider. If I do use both Pioneer amps, how should I split up the channels? I was thinking the X340 as a 3-channel with 3&4 running the sub at 2 ohm mono. Then I was thinking I should probably run the tweets off of the channels 1&2. I would then run the 3.0s and the 6.5s off of the two D800s. I know the X340 is pretty underrated, so then I was thinking maybe I should run the X340 to the 6.5s and the sub and the 3.0s and tweets off of the 2 D800s. That or should I use a different combo of amps? Let me know what combo you think I should run. I am planning to make this more of an SQ system. All advice is appreciated.
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Need fulltime installer in Chico ca
Looking to hire tech for fulltime installation position. Sales and customer service is a plus. Send inquiries to allaroundchico@yahoo.com or call 5308918697
Jesse
Jesse
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Great Buyer vette_werks
I had a problem with PayPal transferring the money, but the buyer was more patient. Just on a side PayPal charges you $.25 for a one day transfer, but doesn't offer any guarantee. If you read the fine print it says depends on bank and weekends do not apply. I have always used PayPal and prior to this I would usually get the money the next day. There is no way to bypass that $.25 fee and when it doesn't work you don't get the $.25 back. Now I know what everyone is thinking it is only $.25, but that is $.25 times how ever many bank transfers they do per day!
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Wiring Help Needed a Noob.
Have a new system dnx 893s hu. Beyma speakers 4 - 6 1/2 6g40nd door speakers 8 ohms 170 watts rms. Beyma tweeters 2 - SQL-60 4 ohm 30 watts rms that can with jsx superior film cap 4.7 uf 630v.dc +- 3%. I want to wire these six speakers into a sound digital 1200.4 4 channel amp that was recommended. Problem is have no idea how to do this and have been all over net researching to no avail as per my noob status. i know its most likely a simple setup but when you don't know what your doing you can see the problem. Like i said noob, would love the best way to wire this set up and go on about my listening pleasure. Sub will be jl audio w7ae 10' wired to sound digital 1600.1 as per recommendation also. any and all imput into this set would be greatly looked forward too thank you to all that are more knowledgeable them me. A pic diagram or something of that nature would be the cats meow. Thank you all that would help.
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Head unit help to choose
Hello guys i just got my sound system ordered only one thing is missing is head unit , so what i am looking for is some 2 DIM with touch screen , its have to have browser to be able to browse on internet like youtube ect and wifi or 3g access . THen its also have to have 3 audio out puts front rear and subwoofer , thats more or less all i am interested other futures doent matter that much , do you guys know any head unit with such futures ?
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Looking for Installer/Dealer/Experienced input on my full SQ 2015 Silverado LT setup
I have done tons of research on products and pricing from websites to videos and more. I have finally begun to order parts. There are a few questions I still need answered. I sent this to 5 star car audio just cause i learned a lot from watching their videos. Thought i put it here maybe ill get a quicker answer.
Hi Guys Im thinking this might be the best spot to ask my questions i've done a few on your videos, and watching most recent monday video but i think it be to long for that so here goes.
My truck 2015 Silverado 1500 LT Double Cab (very little space behind seat and back wall) has the factory longer center console and has 8" screen w/o bose system. Going for full SQ set up. Buying my stuff either from Best Buy (12 months no interest have 2k) and/or Ebay/Amazon/Store with ebay like 702-motoring (vegas closet for me) so i can use Paypal card (6 months no interest 2k). Ok so first ill ask the simple easy questions from watching videos of yours.
What thickness ABS (or do u use HDPE) for your amp/tweeter/fuse mounts? I see the door sound deadening fernando does, do you need to put any by the amp or just speakers?
Ok now questions related to parts I need to order for my set up. Ok so i'm going with the Maestro RR & GM3+ & SAT1. I already got the GM antenna adapter and will prob get the xm 300 free with head unit. With maestro do i need the Metra Backupcam-3? What about Microbypasses not sure what automatic video in motion is? Do i need the Pac USB-GM1 oem usb port retention what is that for exactly, my truck has like 7 usb ports in it, 3 cig lighter ports, a 110 volt, aux jack input and sd card input.
Ok now the components and install. For my head unit its between Kenwood DDX9904s/9903s (i prefer the 9903s cause has hdmi port, any other hardware or software differences price is $150 less for older 1) or Pioneer 4201/4200 nex i know the only difference is the camera (Will it work for a front camera?) I would probably only buy the pioneer because I can use my best buy card so give me an extra 6 months vs buying everything on paypal card but i spend 150-200 more to get that extra time. I will be using Android Auto since I have samsung. Will use Bluetooth as well. Eventually setting up a rear video entertainment. For my amp its between Alpine PDX-v9 (2010 technology) cost me $175 more than the Pioneer GM-D9605 which i can buy at BB for 250, alpine is still 700 at BB so i buy online for just over $400. Ok so for the amps I just run RCA straight from deck to amp. What about speaker wire should I run all new wire? or what about the 9 conductor speed wires from amp to dash/kick panel and tap in somewhere (or do i tap into maestro harness? At the doors should I cut off the factory connector and new wire or buy these American Intl SH3802 harness connector (inexpensive and sometimes free).
For sub i'm doing a single kicker solo baric 8" with a Rodney Sealed GMC 2014+ console sub box $160 after ship (JL fiberglass one more than i want to spend). Now for the door speakers Its really between the Kicker KSS 6.75/6.5 (2017/16 models) and Alpine R-Series (2017/ previous model)... Originally i was going to do component in front and coaxial in back, saw a video were did component all 4 corners should I go that route? I am going to put front tweeter in dash were factory 2.75" is do I run all new wire from crossover to it or tap into the factory wire for 2.75" or? K I can buy both newer speakers at best buy. My price point with sub box, if i buy previous year models Its $320/375 kicker/alpine respectively and would buy the sub/alpine combo. Option 2 has buying sub & component from best buy new 2017 Kicker sub/component buy 1 get 1 50% and for coax kicker 2017/16/alpine16 (505/470/460), option 3 buy 2016 sub online but buy both new 2017 alpines from Best buy $650. You can ignore the price point options but if want to suggest a combo either 17/16 sub is there a difference and then either both kicker/alpine or kicker component and alpine coax or if you said go both component above.
Ill be getting the Metra 82-3005 speaker adapter for front and Scosche SAGMHR-634 for back doors.Last part is wiring. Depending on answer about the 9 conductor speaker wire could influence decision. But everything im looking at is complete OFC with 6 channels of RCA, some are complete with speaker and some are not. Stinger 4000 ($79), 6000 (124), Kicker/Rockford (94), NVX (82), Stinger Select w 4-4000 dunno if the 2 SS are OFC (69), Rockville (65), Kunkonceptz (80) with all the prices so close coming down to quality/supplies and if 6000 series is worth the 30-50 more over others. For the 9 conductor at 20' have stinger (23), Metra (22), Voodoo (16), and a no name 100% ofc only 15 ft (14). Last questions should i get a hdmi male female extension and mount on dash or console? Will I need a mini A/V jack and video rca cable? Want to try and do it all at once. For remote power wire what should i buy or just install it to a fuse in factory fuse box? Oh one last speaker question do I need rca splitters or rca to speaker wire converter for anything? Thank you so much for your time
Hi Guys Im thinking this might be the best spot to ask my questions i've done a few on your videos, and watching most recent monday video but i think it be to long for that so here goes.
My truck 2015 Silverado 1500 LT Double Cab (very little space behind seat and back wall) has the factory longer center console and has 8" screen w/o bose system. Going for full SQ set up. Buying my stuff either from Best Buy (12 months no interest have 2k) and/or Ebay/Amazon/Store with ebay like 702-motoring (vegas closet for me) so i can use Paypal card (6 months no interest 2k). Ok so first ill ask the simple easy questions from watching videos of yours.
What thickness ABS (or do u use HDPE) for your amp/tweeter/fuse mounts? I see the door sound deadening fernando does, do you need to put any by the amp or just speakers?
Ok now questions related to parts I need to order for my set up. Ok so i'm going with the Maestro RR & GM3+ & SAT1. I already got the GM antenna adapter and will prob get the xm 300 free with head unit. With maestro do i need the Metra Backupcam-3? What about Microbypasses not sure what automatic video in motion is? Do i need the Pac USB-GM1 oem usb port retention what is that for exactly, my truck has like 7 usb ports in it, 3 cig lighter ports, a 110 volt, aux jack input and sd card input.
Ok now the components and install. For my head unit its between Kenwood DDX9904s/9903s (i prefer the 9903s cause has hdmi port, any other hardware or software differences price is $150 less for older 1) or Pioneer 4201/4200 nex i know the only difference is the camera (Will it work for a front camera?) I would probably only buy the pioneer because I can use my best buy card so give me an extra 6 months vs buying everything on paypal card but i spend 150-200 more to get that extra time. I will be using Android Auto since I have samsung. Will use Bluetooth as well. Eventually setting up a rear video entertainment. For my amp its between Alpine PDX-v9 (2010 technology) cost me $175 more than the Pioneer GM-D9605 which i can buy at BB for 250, alpine is still 700 at BB so i buy online for just over $400. Ok so for the amps I just run RCA straight from deck to amp. What about speaker wire should I run all new wire? or what about the 9 conductor speed wires from amp to dash/kick panel and tap in somewhere (or do i tap into maestro harness? At the doors should I cut off the factory connector and new wire or buy these American Intl SH3802 harness connector (inexpensive and sometimes free).
For sub i'm doing a single kicker solo baric 8" with a Rodney Sealed GMC 2014+ console sub box $160 after ship (JL fiberglass one more than i want to spend). Now for the door speakers Its really between the Kicker KSS 6.75/6.5 (2017/16 models) and Alpine R-Series (2017/ previous model)... Originally i was going to do component in front and coaxial in back, saw a video were did component all 4 corners should I go that route? I am going to put front tweeter in dash were factory 2.75" is do I run all new wire from crossover to it or tap into the factory wire for 2.75" or? K I can buy both newer speakers at best buy. My price point with sub box, if i buy previous year models Its $320/375 kicker/alpine respectively and would buy the sub/alpine combo. Option 2 has buying sub & component from best buy new 2017 Kicker sub/component buy 1 get 1 50% and for coax kicker 2017/16/alpine16 (505/470/460), option 3 buy 2016 sub online but buy both new 2017 alpines from Best buy $650. You can ignore the price point options but if want to suggest a combo either 17/16 sub is there a difference and then either both kicker/alpine or kicker component and alpine coax or if you said go both component above.
Ill be getting the Metra 82-3005 speaker adapter for front and Scosche SAGMHR-634 for back doors.Last part is wiring. Depending on answer about the 9 conductor speaker wire could influence decision. But everything im looking at is complete OFC with 6 channels of RCA, some are complete with speaker and some are not. Stinger 4000 ($79), 6000 (124), Kicker/Rockford (94), NVX (82), Stinger Select w 4-4000 dunno if the 2 SS are OFC (69), Rockville (65), Kunkonceptz (80) with all the prices so close coming down to quality/supplies and if 6000 series is worth the 30-50 more over others. For the 9 conductor at 20' have stinger (23), Metra (22), Voodoo (16), and a no name 100% ofc only 15 ft (14). Last questions should i get a hdmi male female extension and mount on dash or console? Will I need a mini A/V jack and video rca cable? Want to try and do it all at once. For remote power wire what should i buy or just install it to a fuse in factory fuse box? Oh one last speaker question do I need rca splitters or rca to speaker wire converter for anything? Thank you so much for your time
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Android Head Unit
Hello have a quick question does all android head units have google play store installed ?
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Music hurts my ears after CLD install! Help!
I had a set of Polk component speakers in my doors (the woofers in the doors, tweeters in the dash) and all was well enough. I had to take one of the door panels off so I figured while I was in there I'd put some CLD (a Stinger product - can't remember the name) around the OEM black plastic speaker mount on the woofer. I did both sides. The plastic mount is oval shaped and the woofer sits on one side of the oval. I did the rears as well though the adapter was only a ring and it used much less material.
Now, the music actually HURTS my ears. It feels like pressure is being forced into my ears, even at lower volumes, and the pressure builds and builds. The sensation is like the one you feel when you put the windows up in a well sealed car. A more extreme example is swimming to the bottom of a swimming pool... it's not quite that bad but a similar sensation. It feels like a pressure change.
My suspicion is that I changed the resonant frequency of the door panels for the worse, turning my inner steel door skins into drums/resonant panels. I think medium-low vocals are what's hurting my ears. Some of my EDM songs are absolutely unbearable even at low volume while some rock songs aren't really noticeable until the volume is up more.
Any suggestions? What do I do?! If it is a CLD/resonance issue should I double down and add more (please don't suggest this unless you've been here before!!) or just take off the stuff I put on there and see what happens?
I would like to hear any similar stories/experiences you may have with this kind of thing!
Thanks in advance!
Now, the music actually HURTS my ears. It feels like pressure is being forced into my ears, even at lower volumes, and the pressure builds and builds. The sensation is like the one you feel when you put the windows up in a well sealed car. A more extreme example is swimming to the bottom of a swimming pool... it's not quite that bad but a similar sensation. It feels like a pressure change.
My suspicion is that I changed the resonant frequency of the door panels for the worse, turning my inner steel door skins into drums/resonant panels. I think medium-low vocals are what's hurting my ears. Some of my EDM songs are absolutely unbearable even at low volume while some rock songs aren't really noticeable until the volume is up more.
Any suggestions? What do I do?! If it is a CLD/resonance issue should I double down and add more (please don't suggest this unless you've been here before!!) or just take off the stuff I put on there and see what happens?
I would like to hear any similar stories/experiences you may have with this kind of thing!
Thanks in advance!
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Home STEREO speaker suggestions ?
Not for 'home theater' or any other use, this for a system I use to 'sit and listen' to my vinyl collection (12LF of folk, jazz, rock & classical) in strictly traditional stereo mode. Frequent therapy, often loud.
Amp is a Nakamichi 420 (50Watts @ 8 ohms) I bought when new that continues to serve me well.
My Boston Acoustics HD9's are showing foam surround degradation, I'm not really interested in re-foaming/repair, thinking it's time to 'try something new' and wouldn't mind regaining a bit more of the bass that previous slightly larger speakers provided. I previously had a pair of larger Avid speakers (don't remember the model, liked 'em but lost to divorce) and prior to that a pair of AR-3 (PX purchase pre-dating the Nak 420 but kept when I got it), liked 'em, sold to fund college, so going way back in time ;-).
Prefer vertical oriented floor-standing or something I can put on a small stand.
Budget max $1k but certainly not compelled to spend all of that.
Happen to have any suggestions I should consider? TIA.
Amp is a Nakamichi 420 (50Watts @ 8 ohms) I bought when new that continues to serve me well.
My Boston Acoustics HD9's are showing foam surround degradation, I'm not really interested in re-foaming/repair, thinking it's time to 'try something new' and wouldn't mind regaining a bit more of the bass that previous slightly larger speakers provided. I previously had a pair of larger Avid speakers (don't remember the model, liked 'em but lost to divorce) and prior to that a pair of AR-3 (PX purchase pre-dating the Nak 420 but kept when I got it), liked 'em, sold to fund college, so going way back in time ;-).
Prefer vertical oriented floor-standing or something I can put on a small stand.
Budget max $1k but certainly not compelled to spend all of that.
Happen to have any suggestions I should consider? TIA.
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Alpine X108U
Price is shipped, great unit comes with everything it was originally packaged with. Used for 6 months in my Camry, please ask if you have any questions. Mint condition, no scratches.![]()
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looking to upgrade amp and speakers to Focal K2 Power or Dynaudio 242
I've been out of car audio for at least 10 yrs but have recently started installing new equipment and already want to switch it up:
Currently I have the following:
Hu: kenwood DDX9903s
Front speakers: alpine type r
Rear : RE xxx 6.5 mids
Amp: zapco ST4 high power
Sub amp: RE audio 1000.1
Sub: ID max 12"
I was very unhappy with the shrill sound of this and assumed it was the amp. I installed an older helix b2 and discovered that much of the hiss remained. This was with the tweeters 6 dB down. I realized then that by turning the tweeters down an additional 10dB at 10khz resolved the issue. In my last car I had alpine type r and loved the tweeters (14 yrs ago) but these were made by vifa. I'm still shocked at how bad these sound especially since I picked the mids over the focal K2 power while bench testing off my home set up. Additionally the mids are a little less clear once installed into the lower doors than I would like.
So the first question is is what are your opinions on getting the focals vs dynaudio. I can get the focals from crutchfield whereas the dynaudios would have to be eBay or woofers etc which will be an issue if I ever need warranty replacement
Secondly, I'm still not fond of the zapco after comparing it to the helix but would use it for the rears but the active cross over only goes up to 250 Hi lowpass. The head unit for some reason does not have low pass capabilities on the rear which I did not know at the time of purchase.
So, I'm considering the helix 400x since it has full crossover capability and not much bigger of a footprint then the zapco (installed on the rear of the sub box). Do you think the helix will have enough power for 4 ohm fronts like the dynaudio or does this tilt the scales towards the two ohm focals. I have heard the focals described by some as more in your face and potentially harsher whereas there seems to be more of a consensus on the dynaudios sounding nice.
Currently I have the following:
Hu: kenwood DDX9903s
Front speakers: alpine type r
Rear : RE xxx 6.5 mids
Amp: zapco ST4 high power
Sub amp: RE audio 1000.1
Sub: ID max 12"
I was very unhappy with the shrill sound of this and assumed it was the amp. I installed an older helix b2 and discovered that much of the hiss remained. This was with the tweeters 6 dB down. I realized then that by turning the tweeters down an additional 10dB at 10khz resolved the issue. In my last car I had alpine type r and loved the tweeters (14 yrs ago) but these were made by vifa. I'm still shocked at how bad these sound especially since I picked the mids over the focal K2 power while bench testing off my home set up. Additionally the mids are a little less clear once installed into the lower doors than I would like.
So the first question is is what are your opinions on getting the focals vs dynaudio. I can get the focals from crutchfield whereas the dynaudios would have to be eBay or woofers etc which will be an issue if I ever need warranty replacement
Secondly, I'm still not fond of the zapco after comparing it to the helix but would use it for the rears but the active cross over only goes up to 250 Hi lowpass. The head unit for some reason does not have low pass capabilities on the rear which I did not know at the time of purchase.
So, I'm considering the helix 400x since it has full crossover capability and not much bigger of a footprint then the zapco (installed on the rear of the sub box). Do you think the helix will have enough power for 4 ohm fronts like the dynaudio or does this tilt the scales towards the two ohm focals. I have heard the focals described by some as more in your face and potentially harsher whereas there seems to be more of a consensus on the dynaudios sounding nice.
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Sense check my enclosure (noob content)
Hi All,
First post - yay! ;)
I've spent some time recently getting to grips enclosure design, and WinISD Pro / AJ Designer in particular, but am completely new to this world in general.
Before I start cutting MDF, I'd welcome your comments on my box design. This is just for a cheap but hopefully half-way decent system for my daily driver - A 2009 Ford Transit van with steel bulkhead. (I'll seal the box against the subhead and cut out a hole for the drivers and ports to fire under the seats into the cabin.)
HU: Pioneer MVH-580 DAB
Amps: Mac Audio Pulsar 1 xl (600w nominal) for the subs, and mac audio 4xl for the components
Front speakers: Audison APK163 6.5" / 4" / 1" 3-way components
Subs: 2 x Phase Linear Thriller Pro 12's (250w RMS each)
I listen to all types of music, including classic rock and guitar bands, as well as rap, drum and bass etc, and have decided I'd like a ported enclosure as it'll give me more low down without extensive EQ.
The driver parameters are:
Rdc (z)* 2.5 (3)
FS 30hz
Qms 8.7
Qes 0.486
Qts 0.46
xMax 16mm
Vas 55 litres
Pmax /pe 400
Diameter 0.302m
EBP 61.73
Re 2.5
SPL 92db
BL 10
Sd 616 cm2
Diameter 28 cm2
Based on this, I'm going for a 160 litre box tuned to 26hz, with two flared 11cm dia ports 45cm long (will have a 90 deg bend in). I also intend to run a 20hz 2nd order infrasonic filter to stop over excursion at super low frequencies.
1. Does this sound about right as a general SQ / SPL system?
2. Is the subsonic filter filter a necessity or is there no real content under 20hz in most mainstream recordings anyway?
The only thing that worries me slightly, is the max port air velocity of 24 metres per second. Although maybe:
a. The port flares will help, and
b. There's not much musical content down at 26hz anyway, so any port noise I do get will be rare
Any thoughts / opinions / improvements on this? For those in the know, do you think it'll make a decent sounding system?
I'm just starting out, so opinions from those more experienced than me are most welcome!
Pete :)
First post - yay! ;)
I've spent some time recently getting to grips enclosure design, and WinISD Pro / AJ Designer in particular, but am completely new to this world in general.
Before I start cutting MDF, I'd welcome your comments on my box design. This is just for a cheap but hopefully half-way decent system for my daily driver - A 2009 Ford Transit van with steel bulkhead. (I'll seal the box against the subhead and cut out a hole for the drivers and ports to fire under the seats into the cabin.)
HU: Pioneer MVH-580 DAB
Amps: Mac Audio Pulsar 1 xl (600w nominal) for the subs, and mac audio 4xl for the components
Front speakers: Audison APK163 6.5" / 4" / 1" 3-way components
Subs: 2 x Phase Linear Thriller Pro 12's (250w RMS each)
I listen to all types of music, including classic rock and guitar bands, as well as rap, drum and bass etc, and have decided I'd like a ported enclosure as it'll give me more low down without extensive EQ.
The driver parameters are:
Rdc (z)* 2.5 (3)
FS 30hz
Qms 8.7
Qes 0.486
Qts 0.46
xMax 16mm
Vas 55 litres
Pmax /pe 400
Diameter 0.302m
EBP 61.73
Re 2.5
SPL 92db
BL 10
Sd 616 cm2
Diameter 28 cm2
Based on this, I'm going for a 160 litre box tuned to 26hz, with two flared 11cm dia ports 45cm long (will have a 90 deg bend in). I also intend to run a 20hz 2nd order infrasonic filter to stop over excursion at super low frequencies.
1. Does this sound about right as a general SQ / SPL system?
2. Is the subsonic filter filter a necessity or is there no real content under 20hz in most mainstream recordings anyway?
The only thing that worries me slightly, is the max port air velocity of 24 metres per second. Although maybe:
a. The port flares will help, and
b. There's not much musical content down at 26hz anyway, so any port noise I do get will be rare
Any thoughts / opinions / improvements on this? For those in the know, do you think it'll make a decent sounding system?
I'm just starting out, so opinions from those more experienced than me are most welcome!
Pete :)
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Subs under front seats of 15 4runner?
The rear cargo of my 4runner is full with a full pull out kitchen / storage setup for my overland adventures. I was originally planing on just doing 2 of those powered 8" under seat subs but then i got to thinking. How about 2 shallow/small 8" subs under each seat? I can fit and enclosure measuring about 4.75x11.5x19 wich comes out to about .4 using 1/2" mdf. Where im at now with it is maybe 2 earthquake sws8x in .4 getting 300 watts under each seat. Thoughts? Better ideas? I really want to run with this under the seats location.
Other driver im looking at are the pioneer 8" shallows and the rockford p3 shallows.
Other driver im looking at are the pioneer 8" shallows and the rockford p3 shallows.
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2016 f 150 scocshe dash kit
Has anyone used this yet? If so will it fit a pioneer NEX unit and maintain the head units fold down face?
It replaces the ford factory air controls and the stock head units vehicle settings with its own touch screen below the new radio.
It replaces the ford factory air controls and the stock head units vehicle settings with its own touch screen below the new radio.
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Looking for a new tablet.
I'm currently using and have used several iPads and am looking for a change. I only use the tablet to surf the forums, store photos of my mods to vehicles and taking photos of extra items for sale. Since I will be locked down for several weeks after my surgery, I'll have plenty of free time to learn the new tablet.
I am not a computer wiz in any sense of the word, yet I don't want one so slow till I need an appointment for it turn on. Also I only need wifi as being retired the tablet stays at home. Now just a heads up I am far from a little guy and I need/want one that my large hands can readily use. Also I want one where I will not need to replace it tech wise this time next year.
Last but not least, I have no budget constraints but just because I can doesn't mean I need to lol.
Thanks in advance to all for their wise suggestions, and if I left out any need to know info please inquire.
I am not a computer wiz in any sense of the word, yet I don't want one so slow till I need an appointment for it turn on. Also I only need wifi as being retired the tablet stays at home. Now just a heads up I am far from a little guy and I need/want one that my large hands can readily use. Also I want one where I will not need to replace it tech wise this time next year.
Last but not least, I have no budget constraints but just because I can doesn't mean I need to lol.
Thanks in advance to all for their wise suggestions, and if I left out any need to know info please inquire.
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Pioneer vs kenwood for sound quality help
Looking for some help on choosing head unit.
Pioneer AVIC-f88dab or kenwood dnx8160dabs
Which one do you guys recommend for best audio quality?
Pioneer AVIC-f88dab or kenwood dnx8160dabs
Which one do you guys recommend for best audio quality?
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