What kind of power is everyone using on theirs?
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Si bm mkiv
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Custom vs prefab speaker adapters
I notice the high end installers will use a custom fabricated speaker adapter. Some appear to be a wood product, while others are plastic. If a pre-fabricated adapter is available from a source such as Metra, is there any reason not to use the pre-fabbed plastic adapter?
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Hybrid Audio Speakers & Crossovers + DLS Amps
Cleaning out my garage and was saving this stuff for the future. Being honest with myself that I'm not going to use any of it any time soon. Would possibly trade (or trade + cash) for an Alpine ILX-107.
Product Brand & Model:
Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2
Hybrid Audio Legatia L2x Crossovers
DLS Ultimate A6
DLS Ultimate A4
Condition of all items:
Good (4/5)
Speakers: One of the speakers had the center cap replaced as it was pushed in. The other had the rubber surround come unglued and was fixed per Scott Buwalda's directions. Comes with mids, tweeters and crossovers.
Amps: The amps have a few small scuffs on the metal. Should be visible in the pictures.
Crossovers: Nothing wrong with them.
Total Price:
Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2 - $300
Hybrid Audio Legatia L2x Crossovers -$200
DLS Ultimate A6 - $350
DLS Ultimate A4 - $350
Shipping Terms:
Shipping is from 91301 and I'm happy to ship FedEx or USPS. You pay for S&H to your address.
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Attachment 238977
Attachment 238979
Attachment 238981
Attachment 238983
Attachment 238985
Attachment 238987
Attachment 238989
Attachment 238997
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Product Brand & Model:
Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2
Hybrid Audio Legatia L2x Crossovers
DLS Ultimate A6
DLS Ultimate A4
Condition of all items:
Good (4/5)
Speakers: One of the speakers had the center cap replaced as it was pushed in. The other had the rubber surround come unglued and was fixed per Scott Buwalda's directions. Comes with mids, tweeters and crossovers.
Amps: The amps have a few small scuffs on the metal. Should be visible in the pictures.
Crossovers: Nothing wrong with them.
Total Price:
Hybrid Audio Clarus C61-2 - $300
Hybrid Audio Legatia L2x Crossovers -$200
DLS Ultimate A6 - $350
DLS Ultimate A4 - $350
Shipping Terms:
Shipping is from 91301 and I'm happy to ship FedEx or USPS. You pay for S&H to your address.
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Attachment 238977
Attachment 238979
Attachment 238981
Attachment 238983
Attachment 238985
Attachment 238987
Attachment 238989
Attachment 238997
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
Hybrid audio l2se
Hybrid audio l2se
Very good condition marks pn 2 of the mounting holes from screws. Thats ot
220 shipped within 48
Bought them off a diyma member. I tested them out because i wanted to try them in a 2 way. And i feel i still needed a tweeter. No box. Ill wrap them up in foam just how they came to me
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED ** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you: 1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums. 2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info. 3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing. 4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself. DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party. DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Very good condition marks pn 2 of the mounting holes from screws. Thats ot
220 shipped within 48
Bought them off a diyma member. I tested them out because i wanted to try them in a 2 way. And i feel i still needed a tweeter. No box. Ill wrap them up in foam just how they came to me
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED ** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you: 1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums. 2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info. 3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing. 4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself. DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party. DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
Does anybody actually use 2 or 3 way 6x9s anymore ?
So I’m doing another build and am doing rear fill. My initial plan was to do a 2 way passive comp set but there is no tweeter location In the rear doors and I don’t really want to cut into a brand new door panel.
So my question is doesn’t anybody use 2 or 3 way 6x9s anymore and are they actually any good ? If so what are the good ones? I have 250rms per side to spare and the stock size is a 6x9.
Included is a pic of the interior so you can see the location .
So my question is doesn’t anybody use 2 or 3 way 6x9s anymore and are they actually any good ? If so what are the good ones? I have 250rms per side to spare and the stock size is a 6x9.
Included is a pic of the interior so you can see the location .
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6x9 boxes with round speakers on the end cap?
Hey all, building boxes to mount speakers in my single cab truck, I have 2, 4" pioneers mounted in my dash and I want to start building boxes for my 6x9's, I have a set of nice kicker 6x9 that I'm going to power through an amp and then a set of kicker 5 and a 1/4's that I will run as the rear channels of the head unit, I've got pretty limited space since it's a single cab and I'm trying to mount between my bucket seats against the back wall, I'm thinking of building boxes for the 6x9s so that they sit vertical, facing forward in the truck and Just making the boxes extra tall and mounting the 5 and a 1/4's facing up on the end cap/top of the boxes, anyone ever done that before? Will it end badly and should I do separate boxes? And what if I put a wall in between the speakers so they're separate Chambers?
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RSX Hatchback enclosure
Looking to pic some brains on an enclosure for my 2003 RSX Type-S. design, placement, orientation ect
Equipment:
2 Alpine Type R 12" subs SWR-1242D wired to 1 ohm.
Rockford Fosgate 1200.1D (1/0) power and ground
XS 12V Battery (4/0) power and ground
4 JBL GTO 609C
12 awg speaker wire
JL Audio JX 400/4
12V Duracell (Honda Size)
Full size Optima Yellow under hood
Big 3
Equipment:
2 Alpine Type R 12" subs SWR-1242D wired to 1 ohm.
Rockford Fosgate 1200.1D (1/0) power and ground
XS 12V Battery (4/0) power and ground
4 JBL GTO 609C
12 awg speaker wire
JL Audio JX 400/4
12V Duracell (Honda Size)
Full size Optima Yellow under hood
Big 3
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Zapco 400.2 LX
$650 no trades. Price is firm
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Best Mic position
Hey friends,
using a Dayton Audio imm-6 should I be holding:
1) the mic in head position
2) just ahead of me but center (just under the rear view mirror)
3) even further out forward then the above almost near the windshield
to achieve a good upfront sub alignment.
BTW if I need to be corrected (please do so as I wish to learn) the method I'am using is:
A) take a sinewave of the same Hz value of my mid/sub crossover point in my case this is 80hz so a 80hz 0db sinewave thats long enough
B) play it at moderatly high volume
C) hold microphone in head position while playing the RTA APP and measure SPL.
D) timealign untill I get the lowest reading SPL figure and flip phase / or simply dont flip phase and target highest reading SPL figure
truth is I'am not sure if my mic isnt accurate enough but this highest SPL figure comes in a huge window for example it will say start at 5ms and yield the same result untill 8ms and I will simply go half way and enter 6.5ms :)
very profressional eh? :)
using a Dayton Audio imm-6 should I be holding:
1) the mic in head position
2) just ahead of me but center (just under the rear view mirror)
3) even further out forward then the above almost near the windshield
to achieve a good upfront sub alignment.
BTW if I need to be corrected (please do so as I wish to learn) the method I'am using is:
A) take a sinewave of the same Hz value of my mid/sub crossover point in my case this is 80hz so a 80hz 0db sinewave thats long enough
B) play it at moderatly high volume
C) hold microphone in head position while playing the RTA APP and measure SPL.
D) timealign untill I get the lowest reading SPL figure and flip phase / or simply dont flip phase and target highest reading SPL figure
truth is I'am not sure if my mic isnt accurate enough but this highest SPL figure comes in a huge window for example it will say start at 5ms and yield the same result untill 8ms and I will simply go half way and enter 6.5ms :)
very profressional eh? :)
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↧
Finallizing 300 build
I currently have an install quote of 10k with the following equipment
Bit 10D with DRC DSP
Focal ES165KX2 Front speakers 6.5" Component
Focal EC165K Rear Speakers 6.5" Coax
Focal E30KX Subwoofer Single 12"
FDP600.4 4 Ch. Amp
FDP900.1 Mono Block
Shurken battery
200/300 amp battery isolator
Audison Connection power wire and speaker cable
Comustar t12
Drone.
Originally I was planning on a JL w6 system that was about 5k with me doing the work. That price includes the sound proofing, custom sealed box, and install price. Is that a good price? Is that focal sub really that much better than the w6? Do you think I can do better for less?
Bit 10D with DRC DSP
Focal ES165KX2 Front speakers 6.5" Component
Focal EC165K Rear Speakers 6.5" Coax
Focal E30KX Subwoofer Single 12"
FDP600.4 4 Ch. Amp
FDP900.1 Mono Block
Shurken battery
200/300 amp battery isolator
Audison Connection power wire and speaker cable
Comustar t12
Drone.
Originally I was planning on a JL w6 system that was about 5k with me doing the work. That price includes the sound proofing, custom sealed box, and install price. Is that a good price? Is that focal sub really that much better than the w6? Do you think I can do better for less?
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Wtb: idatamaestro RR
Product Brand & Model:
Wtb: idatamaestro RR
Condition of all items:
Working condition
Also if you have the harness vw1 let me know
Total Price: :
Cheap 😀
Shipping Terms: :
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Wtb: idatamaestro RR
Condition of all items:
Working condition
Also if you have the harness vw1 let me know
Total Price: :
Cheap 😀
Shipping Terms: :
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
HI from Cali
Hello diyma members.
Ton's of great information here. Glad to be a part of it.
Ton's of great information here. Glad to be a part of it.
↧
Phoenix Gold SX2 1200.6
Product Brand & Model:
Phoenix Gold SX2 1200.6
Class D Topology
Power Rating: 150w x 6 Channel @ 4 ohm Stereo, 200w x 4 Channel @ 2 ohm Stereo and 250w x 5/6 Channel @ 1 ohm Stereo, 300w x 2 Channel @ 4 ohm Bridged and 500w x 1 Channel @ 2 ohm Bridged
Dimensions: 19.25 L x 8.5 W x 2 H - 489mm L x 216mm W x 51mm H
Master/Slave strappable for huge power and multi-amp setups
RMD port allows you to add a remote monitoring display, giving you a visual of the voltage of your system
Double tier power supplies with OTM Onboard Thermal Management, which monitors the amplifiers internal temperatures. If abnormal temperatures are achieved, OTM will make minor adjustments to output power to allow the amplifier to return to normal operating temperatures without interruption to the amplifier's audible performance.
Remote bass and phase controller with Bass Shift® (RBPC) allows for perfect adjustment of not only the subwoofer level but also 0-180° of phase adjustment from the listening position. Properly adjusting phase will allow enhanced bass response, dynamics and impact at any volume.
Switchable balanced or unbalanced inputs based on your input source's design for best signal to noise performance
Auto-turn on circuit (defeatable) helps when connecting to an OEM system that does not offer a Remote turn-on lead to activate the amplifier
Tri-light LED amplifier status indicators with short circuit, thermal and voltage protection
Front mount controls and connections provide a more pleasing overall aesthetic while conveniently locating the amplifiers controls in the same vicinity as the connections
Variable filters on each channel allow you to fine tune your musical output to the precision you demand. All crossovers feature aluminum shaft precision potentiometers for exact crossover frequency selection.
Crossover Range of 55Hz to 4kHz
Bass Boost 0 to +6dB at 40Hz
Variable phase output can be adjusted 0 to 180 degrees. This adjustment can help achieve better up front bass, by enhancing your sub bass and mid bass transition and resolve subwoofer cancellation problems in certain installations. Resulting in tight, articulate bass that blends perfectly into the rest of your audio experience
Specifications
Frequency Response
± 3dB from 10Hz to 39kHz
Signal to Noise Ratio
81.4dB
High and Low Pass Crossovers
12dB per Octave
Crossover Range
55Hz to 4kHz
Low Level Input Range
300 millivolts to 8V unbalanced
Lowest Recommended Load
2 ohm Stereo / 1 ohm Mono Bridged
Typical Efficiency
88%
Damping Factor
Greater than 200
RMS Power Output
150w x 6 Channel @ 4 ohm Stereo
200w x 4 Channel @ 2 ohm Stereo and 250w x 5/6 Channel @ 1 ohm Stereo
300w x 2 Channel @ 4 ohm Bridged and 500w x 1 Channel @ 2 ohm Bridged
Recommend Power Wire Fuse: 70A
Power/Ground Wire Size: 4GA
Condition of all items:
Like new. Light marks around mounting holes and box is slightly damaged.
Total Price: :$450 shipped, Conus only.
Shipping Terms: :
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Phoenix Gold SX2 1200.6
Class D Topology
Power Rating: 150w x 6 Channel @ 4 ohm Stereo, 200w x 4 Channel @ 2 ohm Stereo and 250w x 5/6 Channel @ 1 ohm Stereo, 300w x 2 Channel @ 4 ohm Bridged and 500w x 1 Channel @ 2 ohm Bridged
Dimensions: 19.25 L x 8.5 W x 2 H - 489mm L x 216mm W x 51mm H
Master/Slave strappable for huge power and multi-amp setups
RMD port allows you to add a remote monitoring display, giving you a visual of the voltage of your system
Double tier power supplies with OTM Onboard Thermal Management, which monitors the amplifiers internal temperatures. If abnormal temperatures are achieved, OTM will make minor adjustments to output power to allow the amplifier to return to normal operating temperatures without interruption to the amplifier's audible performance.
Remote bass and phase controller with Bass Shift® (RBPC) allows for perfect adjustment of not only the subwoofer level but also 0-180° of phase adjustment from the listening position. Properly adjusting phase will allow enhanced bass response, dynamics and impact at any volume.
Switchable balanced or unbalanced inputs based on your input source's design for best signal to noise performance
Auto-turn on circuit (defeatable) helps when connecting to an OEM system that does not offer a Remote turn-on lead to activate the amplifier
Tri-light LED amplifier status indicators with short circuit, thermal and voltage protection
Front mount controls and connections provide a more pleasing overall aesthetic while conveniently locating the amplifiers controls in the same vicinity as the connections
Variable filters on each channel allow you to fine tune your musical output to the precision you demand. All crossovers feature aluminum shaft precision potentiometers for exact crossover frequency selection.
Crossover Range of 55Hz to 4kHz
Bass Boost 0 to +6dB at 40Hz
Variable phase output can be adjusted 0 to 180 degrees. This adjustment can help achieve better up front bass, by enhancing your sub bass and mid bass transition and resolve subwoofer cancellation problems in certain installations. Resulting in tight, articulate bass that blends perfectly into the rest of your audio experience
Specifications
Frequency Response
± 3dB from 10Hz to 39kHz
Signal to Noise Ratio
81.4dB
High and Low Pass Crossovers
12dB per Octave
Crossover Range
55Hz to 4kHz
Low Level Input Range
300 millivolts to 8V unbalanced
Lowest Recommended Load
2 ohm Stereo / 1 ohm Mono Bridged
Typical Efficiency
88%
Damping Factor
Greater than 200
RMS Power Output
150w x 6 Channel @ 4 ohm Stereo
200w x 4 Channel @ 2 ohm Stereo and 250w x 5/6 Channel @ 1 ohm Stereo
300w x 2 Channel @ 4 ohm Bridged and 500w x 1 Channel @ 2 ohm Bridged
Recommend Power Wire Fuse: 70A
Power/Ground Wire Size: 4GA
Condition of all items:
Like new. Light marks around mounting holes and box is slightly damaged.
Total Price: :$450 shipped, Conus only.
Shipping Terms: :
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
↧
Upgrayedd
Look what arrived in the mail this morning.
Re XX15 v2 d4.
This will be replacing the 12" JL 12w3-d2 that's currently installed in my '03 Infiniti FX45.
Think I'm going to shoot for 3 ft3 net, vented. Debating whether to tune to the suggested 30hz and enjoy the added db's at the hump or tune lower, like 23 with an f3 of 23.3, and keep it as flat as possible (before cabin gain anyway) at the expense of a few db's in the middle. Might try both just for kicks, but knowledgeable feedback is absolutely appreciated.
Re XX15 v2 d4.
This will be replacing the 12" JL 12w3-d2 that's currently installed in my '03 Infiniti FX45.
Think I'm going to shoot for 3 ft3 net, vented. Debating whether to tune to the suggested 30hz and enjoy the added db's at the hump or tune lower, like 23 with an f3 of 23.3, and keep it as flat as possible (before cabin gain anyway) at the expense of a few db's in the middle. Might try both just for kicks, but knowledgeable feedback is absolutely appreciated.
↧
MINI DSP - PWR-ICE125
Product Brand & Model:
PWR-ICE125
Condition of all items:
6/10
Total Price: :
$200
Shipping Terms: :
Insured and buyer pays shipping
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
2x125W @ 4Ω or 1 x 450W @ 4Ω DSP plate amplifier, Powered by ICEpower® 125ASX2 module, Ethernet control, FIR + IIR filters, Android & iOS app
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
PWR-ICE125
Condition of all items:
6/10
Total Price: :
$200
Shipping Terms: :
Insured and buyer pays shipping
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
2x125W @ 4Ω or 1 x 450W @ 4Ω DSP plate amplifier, Powered by ICEpower® 125ASX2 module, Ethernet control, FIR + IIR filters, Android & iOS app
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
Need DSP thoughts
Below are my current hardware in 2012 Jeep JKU. I'd appreciate advice about which DSP would work well. I'm not against adding a 2nd amp, but would prefer not to right away.
Hertz 2-way165p.3 components on rear rollbar.
Alpine 2-way SPR-60C components in the front,
Pioneer 4200NEX HU
PDX-V9 amp
10" JL Stealthbox sub and about to add a second 10" Stealthbox.
Hertz 2-way165p.3 components on rear rollbar.
Alpine 2-way SPR-60C components in the front,
Pioneer 4200NEX HU
PDX-V9 amp
10" JL Stealthbox sub and about to add a second 10" Stealthbox.
↧
The Beginning....sorta.
So, yeah... I have a background in audio engineering and have spent lots of free time over the last several years learning about car audio with the desire to plan and build a great sounding SQ-oriented system in my 2013 Smart ForTwo (gas). I just started a sweet new job and FINALLY it's time to consult the pros (you guys) and start buying stuff!
Here's what I've decided on so far:
3-way active front stage + sub centered around a set of Morel Hybrid Integra 424 coaxials run active.
For midbass I'm thinking a pair of Peerless SLS 830946 6.5", but I am open to suggestions if there's something you think would work much better.
Due to obvious space constraints, and me not wanting a sub box sitting on top of the engine access hatch (in the rear), the only sub option I've seen that looks like it will help much is the CDT QES-820 in an under-dash box. Again, suggestions here are more than welcome, of course.
For source and processing I wanna go with a new Joying Android HU (I know, but it's cool) using SPDIF output to a JL TWK 88.
Amps is where I'm really lost. There are so many seemingly great options out there. Add to that, my electrical system upgrade options are limited. I can do a big 3(4) upgrade and swap out the stock battery for an AGM (60AH) and that's about it. I don't know if there's anything that can be done about my 90a alt.
I think I want a decent, not crazy high-end 5-channel to push the sub and bridge to the midbass, and a more high-end, SQey 4-channel to run the Morels. I've researched lots and lots of brands. I kinda want to be pointed in the right direction here. I really don't wanna spend more than $3K total on amps, but I'll go a bit higher if it will mean noticeable improvements in sound quality, longevity and efficiency. Also, I don't know how much headroom is enough.
I plan to pay somebody to really go all out on the install, btw.
Here's what I've decided on so far:
3-way active front stage + sub centered around a set of Morel Hybrid Integra 424 coaxials run active.
For midbass I'm thinking a pair of Peerless SLS 830946 6.5", but I am open to suggestions if there's something you think would work much better.
Due to obvious space constraints, and me not wanting a sub box sitting on top of the engine access hatch (in the rear), the only sub option I've seen that looks like it will help much is the CDT QES-820 in an under-dash box. Again, suggestions here are more than welcome, of course.
For source and processing I wanna go with a new Joying Android HU (I know, but it's cool) using SPDIF output to a JL TWK 88.
Amps is where I'm really lost. There are so many seemingly great options out there. Add to that, my electrical system upgrade options are limited. I can do a big 3(4) upgrade and swap out the stock battery for an AGM (60AH) and that's about it. I don't know if there's anything that can be done about my 90a alt.
I think I want a decent, not crazy high-end 5-channel to push the sub and bridge to the midbass, and a more high-end, SQey 4-channel to run the Morels. I've researched lots and lots of brands. I kinda want to be pointed in the right direction here. I really don't wanna spend more than $3K total on amps, but I'll go a bit higher if it will mean noticeable improvements in sound quality, longevity and efficiency. Also, I don't know how much headroom is enough.
I plan to pay somebody to really go all out on the install, btw.
↧
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2013 Smart ForTwo Build
So, yeah... I have a background in audio engineering and have spent lots of free time over the last several years learning about car audio with the desire to plan and build a great sounding SQ-oriented system in my 2013 Smart ForTwo (gas). I just started a sweet new job and FINALLY it's time to consult the pros (you guys) and start buying stuff!
Here's what I've decided on so far:
3-way active front stage + sub centered around a set of Morel Hybrid Integra 424 coaxials run active.
For midbass I'm thinking a pair of Peerless SLS 830946 6.5", but I am open to suggestions if there's something you think would work much better.
Due to obvious space constraints, and me not wanting a sub box sitting on top of the engine access hatch (in the rear), the only sub option I've seen that looks like it will help much is the CDT QES-820 in an under-dash box. Again, suggestions here are more than welcome, of course.
For source and processing I wanna go with a new Joying Android HU (I know, but it's cool) using SPDIF output to a JL TWK 88.
Amps is where I'm really lost. There are so many seemingly great options out there. Add to that, my electrical system upgrade options are limited. I can do a big 3(4) upgrade and swap out the stock battery for an AGM (60AH) and that's about it. I don't know if there's anything that can be done about my 90a alt.
I think I want a decent, not crazy high-end 5-channel to push the sub and bridge to the midbass, and a more high-end, SQey 4-channel to run the Morels. I've researched lots and lots of brands. I kinda want to be pointed in the right direction here. I really don't wanna spend more than $3K total on amps, but I'll go a bit higher if it will mean noticeable improvements in sound quality, longevity and efficiency. Also, I don't know how much headroom is enough.
I plan to pay somebody to really go all out on the install, btw.
Here's what I've decided on so far:
3-way active front stage + sub centered around a set of Morel Hybrid Integra 424 coaxials run active.
For midbass I'm thinking a pair of Peerless SLS 830946 6.5", but I am open to suggestions if there's something you think would work much better.
Due to obvious space constraints, and me not wanting a sub box sitting on top of the engine access hatch (in the rear), the only sub option I've seen that looks like it will help much is the CDT QES-820 in an under-dash box. Again, suggestions here are more than welcome, of course.
For source and processing I wanna go with a new Joying Android HU (I know, but it's cool) using SPDIF output to a JL TWK 88.
Amps is where I'm really lost. There are so many seemingly great options out there. Add to that, my electrical system upgrade options are limited. I can do a big 3(4) upgrade and swap out the stock battery for an AGM (60AH) and that's about it. I don't know if there's anything that can be done about my 90a alt.
I think I want a decent, not crazy high-end 5-channel to push the sub and bridge to the midbass, and a more high-end, SQey 4-channel to run the Morels. I've researched lots and lots of brands. I kinda want to be pointed in the right direction here. I really don't wanna spend more than $3K total on amps, but I'll go a bit higher if it will mean noticeable improvements in sound quality, longevity and efficiency. Also, I don't know how much headroom is enough.
I plan to pay somebody to really go all out on the install, btw.
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2013 Smart ForTwo Build
I need some help choosing amps. I am not sure how much headroom is enough.
Here's what I have in mind:
The only part I'm really sure about is, I want to start with a pair of Morel Hybrid Integra 424 coaxials and a great pair of 6.5 midbass speakers (maybe SLS) for an active 3-way front. Beyond that, I'm strongly considering a CDT QES-820 to go in the under-dash prefab box.
I really don't wanna spend more than $3k on amplification, but I could stretch that if it would make a big difference.
I plan to do a big 3(4) electrical upgrade and swap out my stock batt for a 60ah AGM. I'm not sure if I can do anything about my 90a alt. w/stock alt it looks like I could run maybe 1,200w total, give or take....and I'm definitely planning on prioritizing install above all else.
For source and processing, I'm thinking a new Joying HU with SPDIF out to a JL TWK 88 will do just fine.
What do you guys think could be some great amp options?
Here's what I have in mind:
The only part I'm really sure about is, I want to start with a pair of Morel Hybrid Integra 424 coaxials and a great pair of 6.5 midbass speakers (maybe SLS) for an active 3-way front. Beyond that, I'm strongly considering a CDT QES-820 to go in the under-dash prefab box.
I really don't wanna spend more than $3k on amplification, but I could stretch that if it would make a big difference.
I plan to do a big 3(4) electrical upgrade and swap out my stock batt for a 60ah AGM. I'm not sure if I can do anything about my 90a alt. w/stock alt it looks like I could run maybe 1,200w total, give or take....and I'm definitely planning on prioritizing install above all else.
For source and processing, I'm thinking a new Joying HU with SPDIF out to a JL TWK 88 will do just fine.
What do you guys think could be some great amp options?
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Fs : dynaudio gti Mk6 package with amp and harness
Product Brand & Model:
Fs : dynaudio gti Mk6 package with amp and harness
This package was removed from a gti Mk6 with the
Dynaudio package
Condition of all items:
Good
Total Price: :
$495 bux shipped
Shipping Terms: :
On me
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
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Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
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Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Fs : dynaudio gti Mk6 package with amp and harness
This package was removed from a gti Mk6 with the
Dynaudio package
Condition of all items:
Good
Total Price: :
$495 bux shipped
Shipping Terms: :
On me
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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