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Hey new Guy here

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Hi Guys,

I was a car audio enthousiasm few years ago. When I got my first car, I've put 3x its worth in audio equipment for the next few cars....

My last owned car was a nice sonata turbo full in 2013. Ever since, I've had a car supplied by my job so I sold pretty much anything I had left beside my focal k2p 165.

I left my job few month ago and got a nice Grand Cherokee Overland 2015. I don't want to loose any functionnality but the 'premium 10 alpine speaker' ain't doing it for me. It's muddy, boomy and 'jeep guy' oriented

I'm willing to start over again with my old passion. I just hope this time i won't be putting 3x the car worth in sound system ;)

glad to be back

FS: ZR Labs

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Product Brand & Model:

ZR Labs 12m midrange

Condition of all items:

near mint with crates

Total Price: :

$900

Shipping Terms: :

split

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

NVX XSPTW X Series Tweeters

Blades for jig saws cutting MDF

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Anyone have a preference for a blade for cutting MDF w/ a jig saw? All I can find on regular woodworking sites is use a circular saw which doesn't really help me.

Opinions Needed- System Structure>Oldsmobile 1986

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I’d like to set up a sound system in my 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Brougham. I have no intention of cutting any openings, nor to add any surface mount; rather using the existing locations. The front is 3.5 and the rears are 4 x 10. I’m well aware of all possibilities of adding 6 x 9’s, etc.

What I’d like to perform would be to add the Cerwin Vega H-7410 (4 X 10) to the rear and to flush mount the Focal Utopia 3.5 in the dash.. Naturally, I would like to add at least a 10” sub, running off a separate class D monaural amplifier. For the speakers, I would like to use the HCCA Orion 10004. For power.

Would this suffice as to possibly obtain a system which is fairly good. And, what other components would be necessary, if any i.e. > crossover: passive, or active? To add component speakers would require me to cut holes in the door panel which I have no intention of doing, nor to add any kick plate cutouts at the bottom: just ‘original’ openings. I believe this is a good possibility.


The head unit is another area of concern that I’m still looking into. A lot of junk out there: Bluetooth, phone, Pandora, Spotify, Sirius : ‘All meaningless to me’. Can any recommend an audiophile head unit? I know they make one, the Pioneer but it is far too expensive; over $1000.00.
Any and all replies and/or opinions are very much appreciated. Included is a video of my Oldsmobile.





http://www.orioncaraudio.com/hcca-li...ax-power-.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPyKeEEsHaI[YOUTUBE][/YOUTUBE]

Right Angle Power Adapter?

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Does anyone make a right angle input power adapter that accepts 4AWG wiring? Jim's MachineWorx has some for 1/0AWG but would probably be a little large for what I need, though I suppose I could get a reducer of some kind.

Currently using 4AWG to the amplifiers using ferrules and heat shrink, however would like to change the layout and wire routing. Didn't want to limit myself on space due to the flexibility of the wire/heatshrink.

Any other options for a connection like this? Maybe I'm overthinking it.


Example of Jim's offering:

12" TC Sounds / Entasi TC9 D2

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I bought this used great looking sub a few years ago. I’m not planning to use and I already have too many subs and I could use the money.

Here is a link of more info about this sub.

https://www.caraudio.com/topic/58436...entasi-tc9-d2/


Asking 275+ shipping firm. No trades. Expect to pay 55+ for shipping this heavy sub..


Also I’m getting married this Saturday and from their I’m off to my honeymoon for a week. I won’t be able to ship this sub in about two weeks or so...








Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any 4 X 10 and 3.5 Speakers 2 ohm Stable

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I could research this but I believe that some here could provide some quick answers. Basically, would any know what 4 x 10 and 3.5 speakers would be 2 OHM stable. All replies are most welcome.

WTB: Focal 13KS

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Product Brand & Model: Focal 13KS



Condition of all items: Used



Total Price: $1:



Shipping Terms: Willing to ship to 33543:



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:

Looking for a a set of Focal 13KS woofers.






** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Recommended 1 DIN Head Unit for BT and Radio only

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I have a 2014 Ford Focus ST with the basic stereo. I currently have the factory head unit connected directly to an Audison Bit Ten D. I don't normally use the factory head unit though. I use my phone (Pixel 2 XL) for my music. I have that connected using USB Audio to a Topping D10 DAC using a powered USB hub. That is connected by Toslink to my Bit Ten. Also I have an AUX cable connected to the Bit Ten.

I want to get a basic Head Unit for really just BT for phone calls, and Radio and CD for the once in a lifetime I use that. Also I want to be able to have it just look a little nicer with the DAC mounted in the dash kit that I have, rather than hiding in the glove box, and fabing the kit so that my phone will be mounted in front of the little screen instead of using a phone mount.

What would some lower cost but still decent quality 1 DIN that you would recommend? Also I am located in Canada, whether that makes a difference in availability.

Thanks,

For Sale - Audible Physics NZ3Albe Widebands

Probably stupid amp install questions

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I am going to install an amp in a small chamber that exists below the floor of my trunk. This chamber is located conveniently enough right next to the battery, and the battery's negative terminal is in fact grounded to the floor of this chamber. The amp would in all likelihood actually end up sitting right on top of (i.e., touching) that grounding point. I have two questions on this I am hoping someone with expertise can answer:

1. Is there any safety or other issue I am missing by allowing the body of the amp to touch the bolt in the chassis that is grounding the car battery and amp? I would think not, since the amp itself does not have current flowing through it. If something went wrong and it did have current flowing through it, I figure I have a problem just by virtue of the amp touching the chassis anywhere (ie, touching the grounding point doesn't result in additional/new risk).

2. Both the battery's grounding point and the battery's negative terminal are easily accessible here. Which is the better point to ground my amp to? Google returns a lot of conflicting and perhaps uninformed ideas on this topic.

Rew house curve changed to 0db line and referenced to it

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I believe you can set a house curve but then get the various points lined up on the y axis, so if for example your house curve demands 9db at 35hz and your 35hz measurement is actually 12db, the bars will sit at 3db over a flat line if that makes sense

Basically the house curve amount above or below is subtracted from the frequency response so it’s easier to see where you need to boost and how wide and by how much far easier than if your looking at a sloping line with sloping response curve also?

Effectively you then aim for a flat response but the flat response is actually the house curves response?

I know I’ve seen it somewhere you can do it but can’t for the life of me recall where?

@hanatsu if that tags you as I have a feeling it was in your post somewhere?

WTB - Hybrid Audio L3SE or X3

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Would prefer flangeless but can use the normal model.

any ideas for no cd/dvd on factory radio

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my factory radio on '15 Ram 1500 doesn't have a cd/dvd player. Wondering what might be way to connect that to radio or any other ideas?

Add amp to P six through speaker wires

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I have a Morel 3 way set up. It is being powered by a Helix P six mk2. I want to add more power to the midbass. I was thinking I would have to sell the p six and get separate amps. Now I’m wondering if I can take the signal from the midbass speaker wire and connect them to an amp like an arc xdi or Mosconi one that has rca to speaker wire adapters. I’m wondering if this would work to add more power to the midbass. So signal would go from p six outputs E &F to a separate amp to the midbass.

helix dsp pro

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Product Brand & Model:
selling my helix dsp pro,,,


Condition of all items:
9/10 near mint condition. not much time on this unit do to constantly working on system.


Total Price: :
looking for $500 or close to that.


Shipping Terms: :
on buyer


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:
will be pulling out of jeep on Saturday. this comes with original box.. will upload pics once out. will send one now installed.







** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1002.jpg (1.21 MB)

sound system without subwoofer ?

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Hello there

I just finished installing my sound system which i didn't like honestly .

I installed two Kenwood component speakers and two rear coaxial speakers

I have Kenwood 4-channel amp rated 65 watt @ 4 ohm per channel

I installed some sound deadening in the front doors and i bought rings foam seals.

But i found that the sound is so poor in terms of bass , i don't know what's wrong.

When i turn the volume up i feel like the high overtakes the mids and the lows by far and it's not an enjoyable experience.

Could the head unit be the problem? because it's the factory head unit and i didn't change it .

What about the ground spot ? because i installed it nearby the amplifier and i didn't know if it's a good spot or not.

What if i changed the speakers will that help ?

My brother has a Denali Sierra with Bose sound system on it and it doesn't have subwoofer but the bass is so present compared of what i have .

If there is no way to improve the bass except to install a subwoofer how much power do i need if i have 4 speakers with 65 watts per channel ?

Thanks.

Sinfoni & Audio Development Drivers

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Hi all, wanted to drop a bit of a review on some Italian drivers that I’ve put in my car. I have had everything for at least a couple months, giving them plenty of time to break in and get the tune dialed in. Here’s my setup:

iPhone 8 256GB + ALAC Files >
Apple Camera Kit 3 + Helix DSP.2 + USB HEC >
Sinfoni Presto + Sinfoni Andante + MMATS Hifi4250d >

Sinfoni Tempo10 (50w ea. @4Ω) +
Audio Development ESA Mid (~125w@3Ω) +
Audio Development ESA Bass 6.5" (~325w@3Ω) +
Audio Development Vipera F12 (d2) (ported@~25hz, 800w@4Ω)

Tweets: 4khz and up
Mids: 315hz - 3150hz
Midbass: 70hz - 250hz
Sub: 25hz - 55hz

All slopes are Bessel 24db/oct. The car is a 2009 Audi A3 hatchback. All amps and drivers purchased brand new. Tweets and Mids are in dash pods on-axis, Midbass are in factory door locations. Sub is rear facing in ported enclosure, strapped down in the hatch.

Sinfoni Tempo10 Tweets: I have had the Sinfoni tweets for several months now, and previously used JL C6, Audison 1.1, HAT L1ProR2, and AF GB15. In my 3way setup, the tweets play from 4khz up, providing an excellent sense of space and presence. There are lots of rave reviews about these tweets, and mine is no different. Effortless and never fatiguing, the Sinfoni tweets provide excellent accuracy and staging.

AD ESA Mids: The AD ESA Mids replaced AF GB25’s. I found that the GB’s didn’t cross low enough for my louder listening levels. I had to keep them above 500hz, whereas I now have the AD’s at 315hz. Both were in sealed pods, though the AD pod is larger and more solidly build (0.3L, 3” PVC, stuffed, carpeted). In terms of content delivery, these are the star of the show in my car. Vocals and guitars are accurate yet smooth, powerful yet dynamic. You can tell from the physical feel that the motor is robust and the cone is very lightweight, while the suspension hints at its significant 7mm xmax. At 3Ω, these have the nice benefit of coaxing more power from your amp. My Sinfoni Andante is rated at 95w@4Ω and 165w@Ω, so I estimate 135w@3Ω. With this power I can turn it up louder than bearable without notable distortion or strain, all while keeping the high pass relatively low at 315hz. The end result is a deep and engaging midrange stage.

AD ESA Bass Midbass: My car is very loud in the 50-200hz range (~85db) because racecar. I went through a lot of drivers trying to find something that could play loud enough to overcome my car’s noise floor, and the AD’s do the trick magnificently. They are massive beefers, again very heavy with obvious capability for big output via the 18mm xmas. They are also 3Ω, getting approximately 325w from the front two channels of the MMATS Hifi4250d amp. In the past I have tried Dynaudio E650, JL C6, HAT L6Se, and AF GB60. While each of these are easily better in a 2way setup because of their upper midrange, they did not get nearly loud and low enough for my application. After going 3way and adding tons of extra deadening in the doors, the AD’s slam surprisingly deep in the doors, while remaining supremely clear and tight. On an upcoming road trip where I won’t have room for the subwoofer, I have set up a tune with no high pass on the AD’s - these things go ridiculously low for 6.5”s, perfect for getting major bass up front before subwoofer considerations.

AD Vipera F12 d2 Sub: AD again delivers silly good on this driver. I purchased this sub to replace a Dynaudio E1200 in a 2cf sealed box, aiming to gain more output in a smaller enclosure. I originally built a 1.3cf sealed box, but wasn’t fully satisfied with the output. I ended up switching it into a JL pre-fab box as an experiment, approx 1cf, port tuned around 25hz. WOW - the output from the ported enclosure is breathtaking for a single 12”, and the accuracy is essentially on par with the sealed E1200 after tuning. With a Qts of 0.23, I should’ve known a ported box would be better… With the proper enclosure and tuning, I don’t necessarily believe there’s a better sub available that balances outstanding SQ with such impressive output.

Summary: After a LOT of high-end driver swapping, I have finally achieved the SQL that I’ve been after in this car. These Italian drivers deliver accuracy and dynamics in spades, while easily digesting significant wattage and reaching very impressive volume levels. For my application-specific needs, each individual driver performs flawlessly, and finally I don’t find myself spending hours poring over data sheets and reviews trying to find the next improvement from my drivers. This gear is expensive, but if you are after spectacular SQL, it’s more so much more economical to get the right stuff the first time!

Hybrid Audio L8SE, L4, L3SE

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Product Brand & Model:

1) Hybrid Audio L8SE - bought off ebay in "like new" condition. I installed them for about 1 month and then went to a sealed box. Some very light brushing and one scratch on the copper surface of the magnet.

2) Hybrid Audio L4 - the original 4" wide band midrange. I ran these in my Cadillac front stage for years, still going strong. I'm too old to play loud volumes ie they've never been abused.

3) Hybrid Audio L3SE - these were bought on DIYMA as "BNIB". I installed them in my dash for a bout a month, decided to go with pods and larger mid ranges. They sounded excellent despite the limitations of the dash. AS you can see though I butchered the flanges a bit - the 4 original mounting holes are still there but there are some clearanced notches and holes. See the photos.

Condition of all items:



Total Price: :

1) $400
2) $150
3) $250

Shipping Terms: :

Add $20 for shipping in CONUS

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:

L8SE
Attachment 242371

L8SE
Attachment 242373

L4
Attachment 242375






** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0367.jpg (1.34 MB)
File Type: jpg IMG_0368.jpg (1.24 MB)
File Type: jpg IMG_0370.jpg (1.18 MB)
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