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Moving from 2 way Passive to 3 way Active, what do I need?

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I'm interested in learning how to make my audio set up active. Here is where I am at:

* 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport double cab
* Kenwood DMX905S
* Arc Audio XDi850.5
* Morel Tempo Ultra 692 front
* Morel Tempo Integra 602 rear
* Audison APS10D - mounted in a Mr Marv birch box
* Maestro
* Some sound deadening in doors (not overkill)

What I am looking to or would like to do:

* Move tweeters to sail panels from dash
* Add Morel CCWR254 2-1/2" wide range to dash (done)
* Remove rears and run front stage exclusive

What I can do (knowledge Base):

* Solder and clean wiring
* Tune amp (set gains) as it exists using either an Oscilloscope or a SMD DD1 (I love that thing)
* Tare down truck

I am looking for more SQ than loudness. The CCWR254s have been installed on the dash, and I am working on getting the sail panels for the tweets (not in my knowledge base - tried and failed).

My questions for the brain trust:

1. What equipment do I need to do this successfully?
2. Can I keep it under $1k?
3. How difficult is it to tune an active system?

I am not adverse to buying used gear. Thanks! This site has always steered me right (even when I went left....)

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MK7 Golf R build log - Focal, Zapco, Audiocontrol

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OK, quick background to preface this build log. I'm in my early 50's and have been installing systems in most of my cars since the early 90's. In my last car, a '12 Taurus SHO, I had installed a Kenwood Excelon double DIN NAV unit (with a full replacement dash kit and iData Maestro to integrate with all the factory electronics), plus PPI amps and a 3 way CDT component set with mids/tweets in custom a-pillars I fabricated and covered in matching vinyl. After spending a full day tearing all of it out when I traded that car about 15 months ago, I swore I was too old for all this nonsense and would never do that again....

Sooooooo…..fast forward about 12 months and I happen to notice a box of NOS MB Quart reference coaxials in my garage that I'd purchased a few years ago and frankly forgot I owned. I thought those German speakers would make a nice, easy upgrade and would go along with my MK7 Golf R 6-speed quite well. Obviously, I'd need amplification to make that worthwhile, so I got an Audiocontrol 4-channel and did a simple, solid install.

The downside of having nice systems in the past is that you get accustomed to that level of sound, and I've always had an acute ear for quality music reproduction. Unfortunately, door-mounted coaxials (even the venerated old school MBQ's) just couldn't image well enough for my tastes, and I decided I'd hunt for some 3-way components. Found a nice set of used Focal KX3's and then procured some salvage a-pillars and the new install I swore I wasn't going to do again was underway.

A-pillar build:

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Wrapped in matching vinyl. Admittedly, I tried 2 different grill cloth versions first and neither matched to my liking. The vinyl is almost a perfect match and looks much better, so all's well that ends well. Clearly I haven't learned to rotate my pics prior to uploading...

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(That's not a defect on the upper part of the a-pillar; it's a reflection from a dirty windshield...)

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BNIB Hybrid Audio Technologies U69-S 2 ohm Midbass

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Condition: Brand New In Box

Price: $250 shipped

The last piece(s) of gear from my build that never happened lol. Price includes shipping....price is OBO.

Make me an offer [emoji4]

PS.
Again....These are the 2 ohm version. Just to be clear.

Pics:




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2018 F250 Upgrade Help

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I have not been active in the stereo world for a while and need help with a new vehicle. It is a 2018 F250 XLT with basic 4.3" radio (Non-Sony). My objective is to retain the stock radio, steering wheel controls and SYNC for now, while replacing all speakers and add a sub or 2. Maybe some day I'll replace that tiny screen with a usable aftermarket radio.

So budget wise I would like to stay under $1000. I've got a mix of equipment I can put to use and would like to do that if possible. See list below.

- Knukonceptz Kolossus 4awg amp kit.
- JBL P660C
- JBL GTO629
- Alpine M500
- NVX 900.5
- SDS sound dampener
- Knukoncepts Kno Knoise

I have my old truck that I can take equipment from as well. It has an Alpine 4 ch amp powering JBL speakers. I cant remember what I put in there other than components up front and coaxial in the back. I'll likely take the Alpine out because I like it better than the NVX.

Someone here has a post of their 2017 F250 build which is amazing but far out of my reach. The Lagatia 8" in the door are inspiring. However, I feel like putting 8" in these aluminum doors will be very noisy even with a ton of sound control products.

Zapco Z Series Amps(3), Heliz DSP.2

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Product Brand & Model: Selling off as my Foxbody needs some repairs.
Zapco Z150.2
Zapco Z150.4
Zapco Z1KD

Heliz DSP.2



Condition of all items:
Z150.2 was purchased used, comes in a 150.2LX box. Has a small nick as pictured.
Z150.4 and Z1KD purcahsed by me within the last two months. Have original boxes and amps look near perfect.

Helix DSP.2 purchased on here around a month ago. Looks near perfect, comes with box and cable.



Total Price: :
Z150.2 - $200
Z150.4 - $400
Z1KD - $200
All 3 - $750

Helix DSP.2 - $425

All prices shipped



Shipping Terms: : Included in US



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info: - I will have to grab some pics of the Helix.








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

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JBL W15GTi (MK1 - the original) for sale

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JBL W15GTi (MK1 - the original) 15” subwoofer.

800 watts RMS, 5000 watts peak. 6 ohm dual voice coil.

New old stock. Never used, never installed, never taken out of the box.

I bought it several years ago, but sold the car before I ever used it.

No warranty, the manufacturer warranty has already expired by now.

Please see my eBay ad at:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JBL-W15GTi-...r/133144463857

Downfiring subs

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What's the rule of thumb when downfiring on space between the sub itself and the floor?

Zapco repair

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Hey gang. Who repairs Zapco besides Zapco?
I have an old school AG360 I’d love to use in my build. I contacted the amp lab too but it’s not one they can do. Thanks!

Nulling is the best for time alignment

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Nulling is the absolute best way to set ta due to peoples head shape, position and hearing.

Convince me otherwise.

For subs, midbass and midrange drivers, nulling is more accurate than any method I've ever tried and I've used them all through the years.


Impulse response, smaart, tape measure and some other oddities.

I believe this is because of having 2 ears vs a single mic point.

I'll give an example. Using a tape measure to get close then using REW for impulse response
I an able to get a really solid center image. It has to me moved a bit using levels but solid.

I knew I need some fine tuning in the vocal range. They sounding like I had a bit too much 1khz and I knew I didnt. The vocal was also sitting just a touch low which could be eq.

I've spent 2 says trying to get the vocal smooth now.
What worked is nulling the mid drivers.
It was about 1 inch off the impulse response. The nulling brought that to my attention and after correction, the vocal moved slightly left. A touch of channel reduction on the drivers side lead to what I was seeking. Vocals are now correct. Smooth, they sit high and have great 3 dimensionality. They weren't horrible before just a tiny bit rough and a bit flat sounding.
After adjusting these my subs needed to be moved backwards in time about 2 inches to lock back in.

I like the fancy programs but man doing it by ear under the right circumstances is so much more accurate.

We haven't had a tutorial on nulling here in a while. If anyone is interested I'd be glad to write one up. Its extremely simple and uses pink noise or test tones depending on what type of drivers you are running.

If you've set your ta using only impulse response or a tape measure this would really be worth a shot. The increase in intelligibility is where it's at.

If you decide to go forward I suggest saving the current tune so you can a/b with the new corrected tune. I guarantee you'll have better results than if you are using a mic.

It's only downfall is it's very hard to hear on tweeters that dont play super low.

WTB Scan-Speak Beryllium tweeters D3004/6040-00

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Product Brand & Model:
Scan-Speak Beryllium tweeters D3004/6040-00


Condition of all items:
Used or new


Total Price: :
TBD



Shipping Terms: :
On me



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:

I am about to buy a new set next week. Before doing so, I would like to know if someone has a used or new set for sale.

Thanks



** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Which organizations are the most active?

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I’m very new to competing. I’ve looked around and the below are my observations about the three organizations that compete in Sound Quality. It appears as if;

IASCA is the least active (their own calendar is all but empty)
USACi appears to be SPL focused (maybe I’m missing it, but I do not see anything on their flyers related to Sound Quality, but they have an SQ rule book)
MECA is the most active and is the best option for quality SQL competition.

Am I wrong? I’d be willing to drive up to 300 miles one way, and would go to a competition every weekend if possible, at least until I get a few more shows under my belt. I’m in Louisiana and don’t see anything around me this weekend. Next weekend I’ll be in Shreveport. I’m thinking about driving down south for a USACi event on the 24th, but again...their flyer doesn’t even mention SQ. Do most people focus on MECA these days?

Anyone here running C7s on VXI Amps ?

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Just curious if anyone is running this combo? My dealer has been wanting me to try this and I keep doing different stuff so I figured I may try this set up of C7 3 ways on a Vxi 800/8i and a 1000/1i on some tw5s. For anyone running these speakers on Vxi amps what are your thoughts and what previous set ups are you coming from ?

wideband for Helix C62?

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2017 Toyota Corolla SE

OEM Headunit
Mini DSP
Arc Audio XXD2080

I would like to venture into the Wideband driver but the reality is that I would like to find one that would work well with midbass driver from the Helix C62C kit.

So far I am thinking of the Audible Physics, Morel and maybe HAT L3 that come into my mind.

Which widband drivers would you suggest for the Arc Audio amp I stated above?

Thank you.

Riverview, FL anyone?

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I have been to Riverview, FL on many occasions since my girlfriend lives over there. I am curious on what the price range would be like for a three bedroom condo or house since we are looking for one in the future more like September of 2020.

Also are they back roads from Riverview leading into Tampa?

Thank you.

System help please, old or new

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Mornin’

I’m picking up a 2014 BMW X1 with the ‘base’ speakers (ie no amp, 6.5inch underseat woofers, 4 inch mids and very basic tweets in the doors).

It’s woefully in need of an upgrade.

I already have the following from past installs or have now purchased.
Audison AP5.9 DSP Amp (2x20w, 2x50w at 4ohm + 1x270w@2ohm)
4 inch mids and Emit tweeters from the old Infinity Kappa 3 way system
A pair of OEM Hifi 8inch woofers and enclosures
A pair of DSL t20 tweeters

Also, but probably won’t be used
Focal 27WX Utopia sub (with twins now, I need every inch of the boot...although tempted to do a removable install with the focal sub amp and HGV truck power connectors
Genesis Profile 4 Ultra amp (would love to use this, but again not enough room)
Focal Solid sub amp
DSL 6.5 mid bass

I’m going to go active on the front with the intention of 2x20 feeding the tweeters, 2x50 the 4inch mids and running the two 8inch woofers in mono parallel on the 270w

Where I would really appreciate some advice is on whether you would use any of the above tweeters or mids or upgrade.

I was looking at the Dayton audio ref 4 inch with a pair of monitor audio ct1s, thinking good sensitivity, good reviews, but then after a few hours reading here I saw a lot of mixed opinions and other things to consider that I really didn’t know much about (extension, q factors etc).

So, would you use any of the above kit, or if you had a budget of £150 what would you add in (only have 50w for the mids). I can’t help but think that, despite being only 4inch, the mids are probably the most important part of the system.....so maybe the scanspeaks that are regularly praised?

Thanks in advance

Soundigital Evo SD3000.1D 2 Ohms Car Amplifier 3000 Watts RMS 1 Channel

ok looking to repower my system

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Hi all,


current system is:
2015 f150 plat all sound deadend
SI active 3 way up front
SI M3 center channel
morel tempest coax in rear
JL13tw5 original
alpine PXE 0850S DSP
RF DSR1 as a pass through integration
MMATS hifi6150D amp for front stage
JL 600.4HD for rear and front center channel
JL 750/1HD for sub

thought is to run 2 SI BM MKV subs, so i want to repower.
Orion XTR looks good on youtube videos but does it make good clean sound? before I was looking at MMATS m1400.2 or Audio control LC-1.1500 as they are priced similarly. whats makes the most sense for SQ and reliability?

My JL 600/4hd amp will likely go away as well if i go MMATS to keep all the same if not then the hodgpodge mix is fine.

Better Components than JL C7

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So I have the chance to acquire a full 3-way of JL C7 speakers for around $1000 is there anything that will out perform them under a grand or should I just go for it and run them in my 2016 Audi A4 which takes a 3-way. I’ve seen some people put 8’s in those doors but idk how much I’ll be gaining by going to a bigger woofer unless I’m listening at high levels.

Capacitor?

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A friend of mine installed an amp and subs in his 2015 Sierra and says that when he plays the music loud for a while his battery loses life.I'm not totally sure what that means but the first thing I thought of was a capacitor.

Just looking for some feedback on this cause honestly I don't know how to help him.A second battery?Any suggestions would be appreciated,thanks!

Helix Dsp.2, hec usb, Director, dmp $600

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Product:
Helix dsp.2, Director, hec usb and director mount.

Price:
$600 plus shipping.

Pics:
I’m removing them all from the car this weekend so I’m hoping to have pics by tomorrow night.

Info:
I had this for sale a couple months ago but now I’ve got my eye on a Dirac Live-based setup so I’m cleaning house to make room for it.

Other:
Diyma isn’t responsible for stupid people on the internet.




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