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I keep blowing up Dynaudio Esotar sub - Help Choose a Replacement!

July 12, 2015, 10:32 am
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I have an all esotar system right now - here's what I have:

HU: Kenwood Exelon 5902
Processor: Arc audio PS8
Tweets: Dynaudio Esotar 110
Mid: Dynaudio Esotar 650
Sub: Dynaudio Esotar 1200
AMP (powers the 110 and 650s): Arc audio 4200 SE
AMP (sub only): Arc Audio 2300 SE

Whole Car is Sound Deadener Showdown'd.
Box is Sealed 1.3

Problem:

I keep blowing up the Esotar 1200. I don't turn up the bass knob ever, I don't eq (HU is flat), PS8 is controlling all, and is mostly flat as well. BUT! I will push the volume up to at times because it's fun, or I'm on the freeway having a good time in my car, and I want some volume cause the window is down. Normally, I listen louder than many, but never where the system should be stressed. I've never had the volume maxed. but I have gotten with "4" of the HU volume max number.

I listen to Techno,Rock,Old Rock, some R & B/Rap. I don't listen to classical or Jazz in the car.

So - I need a 12" SQL sub that won't blow up under 1300w ( 650 x 2 @ 2 ohms)

Price isn't a factor. I can't go with 2 of them - just 1 12".

HELP!

FYI: I'm going to get the 2300 looked at, but I'm still looking for recommendations.
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Just how much damage can a weak battery cause?

July 12, 2015, 10:33 am
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My son's Car stereo has a fairly high current draw. (RF 1001bd, and a RF 801x)

The issue is, I think it was because of a sh!tty battery that he fried his first 1001bd.

When we were installing the second 1001bd, and setting it up...all sorts of weird things happened...one amp would shut off...then both...cycle the key, and they would come on for a second, then fade out...(no music playing at any time.)

Tried to start his car...deader'n a door nail...."click, click, click"

He likes his bass, and I know as soon as his Car rounds the corner, the bass knob wraps around to max.

The biggest issue is the stereo is using the decks Power to run the front stock door speakers, and stock tweeters...and the 801x is running the rear 6" x 9" , and the bd1001 is running two RF 10HX2's in a ported box.

To kill the battery took less than 15 minutes with nothing but the drivers door open, and the headlights on. (Key in the on position.)

I started to think that if the bd1001 was trying to put out 1000watts into the 2 ohm load, it was probably running off the alternator, with the battery trying to charge up all the time.

He ordered up an Odyssey PC-1230 battery to start with, and when I get home again, I will help him ditch the deck power, and switch to using the other half of the 801x for the front speakers.

Stock speakers or not...clean Power is better than distorted power.

Any ideas on what he could use for new door speakers? (4" x 6")
We don't want to destroy the door panel itself.
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NOOB question re: relays

July 12, 2015, 11:05 am
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how do you Wire the remote to amps, dsp, etc from the relay?


daisy chain? individual Wire to each component from relay? or one long thicker gauge remote from relay and smaller gauge wire t-tapped from thicker gauge wire to each component?
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Exodus anarchy original bnib

July 12, 2015, 11:34 am
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I have 3 pairs bnib or original Exodus Anarchy midbass drivers. production date as shown 44th week of 2012, they been stored in my climate controlled basement in factory boxes. as new as you can get. only opened one box to take a picture, never been mounted nor connected. asking 100 bucks per pair delivered conus. each pair comes in separate box. project I bough them for never came to fruition, therefore it`s time for them to go. Amazing driver for money, capable in sub duty in the right box.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
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Fiberglass Subwoofer enclosure for Mini Cooper R56 hatchback

July 12, 2015, 1:57 pm
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Product Brand & Model:
I'm selling a custom subwoofer enclosure for an R56 Mini Cooper S hatchback. It's custom-shaped to fit in the trunk area, it creates a false floor that looks very stealth. It includes a magnetic Speaker grill cover that's made of metal mesh and covered in Speaker fabric. Also includes gold binding posts, poly-fill, and hefty speaker Wire inside the box.

This box was custom-made by a very prestigious shop in south Florida, that has done many award-winning IASCA installs. The amount of noise dampening and attention to detail in this thing is insane.

An Image Dynamics 12" subwoofer is included with the sale.



Condition of all items:
Slightly used, in perfectly usable shape


Total Price: :
$400 or best offer


Shipping Terms: :
Buyer pays exact shipping. Local pickup in central Florida can be arranged if buyer is local to area.


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.

Potato proof - via Imgur









Additional info:









** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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15" sql sub

July 12, 2015, 2:16 pm
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After much debating with myself, I'm planning on going with one 15 in my ranger extra cab. My first choice is a jbl w15gti. The image dynamics idmax has also caught my eye. What other comparable subs should I be looking at?
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FS: Hybrid Audio L1 Pros with aluminum pods

July 12, 2015, 2:20 pm
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Product Brand & Model:
I'm selling a pair of Hybrid audio L1 Pro's with custom aluminum CNC'd pods. I payed $257 for the L1's back in March 2013, and about $140 for the pods.

These are amazing speakers. They've not gotten much use, they were in my girlfriend's Car for a while but now she's driving a lease. I'm still rocking my L1 Pro R2's so I have no use for them currently. I don't want to separate the speakers from the pods, as the pods aren't very useful without the speakers.


Not really sure of how to price these, as I've been out of the Car audio scene for a while... I'll let them go for $235 + actual shipping, via paypal, or best offer. Feel free to leave a comment as to whether this is a fair price or not.


Condition of all items:
Lightly used


Total Price: :
$235 + actual shipping


Shipping Terms: :
Buyer pays exact shipping


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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I've got the itch again, looking for a midwoofer for a 2 way.

July 12, 2015, 2:33 pm
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I am loving my current set up...Phass mid and tweeter, but the XLB group buy tweeters are shipping soon, so i figure why not redo my front end again:D

I will be considering Dynaudio, Scan speak and maybe even AudioFrog.

I have never done a 3-way...( thats what she said )...but i really don't think that is something i want to do in this car. But my next Car purchase that will be the goal.
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jl audio xd500/3 BNIB

July 12, 2015, 3:10 pm
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arc audio ks 900.6

July 12, 2015, 4:42 pm
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Product Brand & Model:

Arc audio
Is 900.6
Condition of all items:

Nice condtion 7 out 10

Total Price: :
400 obo


Shipping Terms: :

Included

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:
very nice amp. Great sq!







** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

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WTB jx 360/2 or maybe 400/4

July 12, 2015, 4:54 pm
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Product Brand & Model:

Jl audio jx 360/2 or 400/4

Condition of all items:

New

Total Price: :

Let me know

Shipping Terms: :

We will work it out

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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Amazon prime day

July 12, 2015, 5:28 pm
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Anyone else keeping close eye on upcoming prime day ?
Wonder if any Car audio gear will be included in the sale
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FS: Phonic PAA3 RTA

July 12, 2015, 5:34 pm
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Product Brand & Model:

Phonic PAA3

Condition of all items:

Excellent condition. Comes with everything just as if it was new .....carry case, a/c cord, test cd, original box and manual.

Total Price: :

$275 shipped

Shipping Terms: :

Included in price.

Pictures:
















Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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Pickup truck owners please share your center console subwoofer builds/knowledge

July 12, 2015, 5:39 pm
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I am throwing around the idea of building a custom center console in place of the factory unit to house a subwoofer. Would love to know what everybody's thoughts are on this kind of build. What driver orientation works best? Downfiring? Front firing? Rear? Up firing is not an option. Front firing driver and rear firing port or vice versa? Port and sub on same plane? Looking at using a ported ten or eight inch sub or maybe a sealed twelve.

I am not looking for an all out SQ arrangement. I would like a good mix of output and sq. Maybe a little more on the output side. Thinking I can get a good 1.5 cubes for whatever I choose. As of tonight I have yanked the center console between the two front seats and am currently running a sundown audio sd-3 10 in a small sealed box in that location. Its small enough that I can play around with the orientation to see what sounds best to me but I would love to hear what people have had success with.
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How does bypassing a stock amplifier work?

July 12, 2015, 6:30 pm
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I am trying to understand as much as I possibly can before starting my Car audio build. While I still have a week or two until I start my build, I'm still a novice and I have plenty to learn. My main question is; how does bypassing a stock amplifier work? If I am understanding it correctly, bypassing a stock amplifier allows you to use the leads provided to the factory amplifier and skip running Wire to the battery, through the firewall and ultimately to your amplifier. Is this right? If not what exactly does it do? Should I be concerned about fuses?

I have a 2004 Dodge Durango SLT and it has the Infinity sound system. I appreciate any help! Thanks!
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Virgin Lead AGMs vs Recycled - Why They're Better

July 12, 2015, 6:35 pm
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I wanted to make a quick list to compare the two types of AGMs - most people think a battery is a battery. I will use specs from G31 batteries to keep everything consistent. Yes, most sound quality vehicles will not have an auxiliary battery in the rear but a nice virgin lead underhood battery is a good, reliable addition to any system.


Brands:
Recycled: East Penn (Deka, Duracell), Johnson Controls Inc (Optima, Interstate, Duralast), and Exide. These 3 companies make around 90% of all recycled lead batteries
Virgin: Odyssey and NorthStar are the main two manufacturers, both located in the US. There are also foreign manufactured virgin lead batteries like XS Power.

Average Cost:
Recycled: $180-220 + shipping unless local
Virgin: $350-380 shipped

Warranty:
Recycled: Varying warranties. Usually 1-2 year pro-rated
Virgin: USA Made Virgin batteries have a 4 year full replacement warranty. Foreign virgin batteries usually have a 2-3 year full replacement warranty.

Life:
Recycled: 2-3 Years in commercial vehicles (semi trucks)
Virgin: 4-10 Years in commercial vehicles

Number of Cycles at 50% Discharge:
Recycled: 400
Virgin: 900

Number of Cycles at 80% Discharge:
Recycled: 200
Virgin: 400

Recharge Time:
Recycled: 10-14 Hours
Virgin: 4-6 Hours

Terminals:
Recycled: Some lead (poor conductor), some brass
AGM: Tin coated brass or pure brass

Storage Life without Charging or Draw: (read paper at end of thread, this is a big factor of why virgin lead batteries perform better)
Recycled: 6 Months
Virgin: 2 years

AH:
Roughly the same for both options.

Cranking Amps:
Recycled: 800A (East Penn)
Virgin Lead: 1150A (NorthStar/Odyssey)

Burst Amps: (5 seconds, more applicable to Car audio than CCA)
Recycled: Not published... hmm I wonder why
Virgin Lead: 2150A for 5 seconds

Inter-cell connections:
Recycled: Pinch welds connect the cells
Virgin Lead: US made Virgin Lead batteries have solid internal bus bars, NOT welds going over the walls inside.


Further Reading (more technical explanation of why virgin lead is superior): http://www.battcon.com/PapersFinal20...10Final_17.pdf


In my opinion, the premium for a virgin lead battery is well worth it if you plan on keeping the battery 4 years or longer. They are all around better performers and will last around twice or more as long as a regular AGM. Virgin lead pricing may increase as supplies are depleted so this statement is only accurate for current prices. Lead can be recycled and refined to virgin lead standards, however it is much more difficult and expensive than refining it to regular recycled AGM standards. Maybe advances in technology will allow virgin lead prices to decrease in the coming years.

Source: Recycled Lead AGMs vs. Virgin Lead AGMs
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Whats wrong with my front right speaker?

July 12, 2015, 8:39 pm
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Today I was noticing whenever I would go over bumps and turn right, the front right Speaker would distort loudly and crackle. I figured either loose connection, the Speaker has become loose against the door frame or the speaker went bad (was obviously not hoping for the latter).

So I took the door panel off and checked everything. The speaker was still mounted tight on the door frame, popped the speaker off the frame and voula one of the connections was undone and the other was super loose. This would explain it right? Well kinda. Im almost certain this fixed the distorting/crackling when going over bumps and turning right (as the loose connector was probably touching the Car door frame or something else metal).

I got them back on tight and because I dont know how to soder, I just used a pair or plyers and cranked super tight on the connectors with the Wire metal end piece fed inside (flat spade like connector). They seemed to be really tight after. Would this work? Would it last?
I could and would have duct taped it on top but i didnt have any.

So I got everything back on (minus the door panel) and gave it a test. Im almost certain the distorting and crackling would be fixed now that I have the connections back on tight.

But now the volume from the speaker was way cut, like maybe 25% volume compared to the rest of the speakers in the car. I went through the fader and it was a huge difference. WTF went wrong? Did my Wire short out or go bad? Im talking the wire going from the deck to the speaker. Just a couple hours ago, I was getting full volume from that speaker.

So I got fed up, it was getting late as I had to get to bed so I just have the fader on my HU set to Front 3 and Right 3 so the volume is more evenly spread and outputting through the car. Talk about wasting my time. Pissed off.

Do you think because I drove a couple days with the speaker on a loose connection and the speaker distorting and crackling that I eventually blew the speaker?
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Playing from USB or Bluetooth

July 12, 2015, 9:13 pm
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Hello All,

I would like to find out if I play the songs through USB or bluetooth, which option gives a better sound quality?

I downloaded the songs on my smart phone and play it through my OEM head unit. Is it better to transfer those songs to an USB and play it through the OEM head unit?

Thanks!
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FS PHD 1. Studio Mini Tweeters

July 12, 2015, 9:30 pm
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Product Brand & Model:
FS PHD1.Studio Mini Tweeters


Condition of all items:
Very good cond.


Total Price: :
$350


Shipping Terms: :
Included to the con US


Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
URL=http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/kberak1/media/IMG_3896_zpsjtltj2p5.jpg.html][/URL]



Additional info:
These are one of two sets currently in the US according to Mike Allen. I purchased them earlier this year from SQ_TSX, and sound as stunning as they look and play very low with great imaging.
I've been hesitant to sell these but family obligations take priority.








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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2 sets HLCDS, and a question on the p99

July 12, 2015, 10:38 pm
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Hi guys , so I have two sets of compression drivers installed , a pillars with 6.5s and Beyma 8s in doors and it's nothing short of completely rediculus but it sounds super good and I've broken many rules and don't care because the way it sounds makes me not care about "good advice" and " best practices " lol

The lower HLCDS are large format and play 630 to 1khz and mounted under dash and have such a teeny tiny bit of a ginormous focal amp running them and the 6.5 in the a pillar plays 500hz 6db to 1khz 24db the Beyma plays 80 to 315 and the top HLCDS play 1.2khz on up. I have lots of overlap between the bottom horns and the 6.5s and I could care less about group delay reflection or any of the bads that are associated with overlap because the way it sounds is good , I was reading Patrick's thread here

Creating a Soundstage with Waveguides and Psychoacoustics - Page 2 - diyAudio

He did similar thing in this Build , I can say enough how fantastic two sets of CDs is and I would love to see allot more people doing it because it's sick, however , it looks like I have a flea market of stereo goods on my dash which is bad to some and getting it to look "good " would be a big big job, i had built home made horns up top with very good success , I just blew one of my celestion CDs :( so I have a set of ES mini HLCDS with a brand new set of cd1eV3 CDs on them and tossed them on the dash just to get me by until I can get a new driver and holly macaroni the cd1ev3 is quite the badass little cd . So I just wanted to urge more people to try this because whenever I do something I think is worth mentioning I like to chat about it , but my home made waveguides with good drivers don't sound near as good as good horns with mediocre cd1e drivers , the lens matters a ton and now I really want to try to figure out how to incorporate a design into the dash to make a good wave guide that pays down to 1k on the dash without some ghetto mounting of a under dash horn on to the dash , I will figure this out later but it needs to be done , my home made wave guide I cut down to load 2.5khz so it was only a couple inches deep and than took clay and formed a flare that went to window and dash , it sounded very very good but the horn sounds better , I'm going to re Build it and try to copy some of the mini horns features into it and than mold it to dash , sorta excited to build it but this time I think I'm going to use Beyma cd10nd just for Power handling reasons anyways on to my question

So I have a LOT of eq on the cd1e because it's needed and I only use cuts on eq below 12khz so the amount of cut I have total in eq has lowered the over all voltage on the preamp , if I try to compensate by adding gain to amps it just doesn't sound as clean and clear , so the p99 has SLA ( source level adjustment ) and I can add boost to the output , when I do that it seems to sound good and sound clean and fix the issue, but just for my own knowledge purpose does the dexp99 have a built in line driver for SLA or is the boost/cut on SLA just adding more/less to the section of the normal preamp that boosts and cuts eq filters?

And secondly instead of using SLA should I add a line driver and if so who makes a very good 8ch one . Thanks in advance
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