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Amp cuts out for a split second at medium-high volumes

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Here is what I have (all of it is about 2 months old)
Image Dynamics xs-28 tweeters and x65 mids
JL audio tw3 10:
Rockford Fosgate 360.3
Alpine PDR-V75
4 gauge Power and ground
14 gauge mid Wire and 16 gauge tweeter wire

Here is the issue:
When I have the volume up to just over 50% and higher my speakers will cut out for a split second, turn back on for a split second and repeat until volume is turned down. It increases the cut out frequency the higher the volume. Normally it is fine but the weather has been nice in Phoenix a couple days to drive with the windows down which required a little more volume. Normally I am well below 50% with the windows rolled up as the cab is super quiet.

Here is what I have checked so far:

Impedance on all speakers - Front tweeters were at 4.6 ohms and mids were at 4.4 ohms (measured from wires at amp), sub was at 3.5ohms measured at sub. Should have been at 2 which concerned me so I checked individual voice coils and they were both at about 5.2ohms. I emailed JL about this as the difference between 3.5 and 2 is quite a bit!

Voltages: Mids/Tweeters were set at 17 volts which is about 72 watts for 4 ohms when amp is birth certificate said 116w at 2ohms. Subwoofer was set at 27 volts (for 2 Ohms) or about 380 watts (amp birth certificate said 416 watts at 2ohms) so voltages should be good. This was set using a 0db attenuated tone.

Speakers: I unplugged each Speaker individually and saw if the problem remained, it did not matter what or how many speakers were running.

Power: checked dc voltage going in and it was constant 13.6-13.8 volts so not a Power issue as far as I can tell. Checked the ground and had .3 ohm resistance back to the battery so ground should be good (it is not attached to a seat belt bolt but to a dedicated grounding terminal with all paint ground/sanded off). Also replaced all fuses to be sure one of them wasn't semi-faulty.

No matter what I do the problem of the sound cutting out is still there. I am leaning towards the amp being bad. I haven't investigated if it is the 360.3 much. I tried plugging my iphone in directly to the rca's of the amp but couldn't get enough output out of the phone to produce high enough volumes.

Any other suggestions to try or is it time for me to call alpine as I have only had this thing for about 2 months?

CDT Audio ES-62 Braxial Set

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CDT audio ES 62 Braxial Set 6 5" ES 6 Mids DRT 26 A Tweeters No Crossover | eBay

These aren't doing any good sitting in my closet... Make me an offer, guys.

Is 1000 watts too much for a JL 12W6v3?

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Would 1000 watts for a 12 inch JL W6v3 be overkill? Obviously the gain would have to be set correctly. I am currently pushing 500 watts and it is really loud but I read on a few different sites that it can handle a lot more than the 600 watts its rated at. I am not looking to push it to its limits but instead get the max out of it at a reasonably/somewhat safe setting. Please reply only if you've had experience with W6v3 and thanks for reading.

Speaker sizes 5x7 or 6.5"

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Hey so i was wanting to get 6.5" speakers (specifically the H.A.T imagine) but my Car (2000 mazda protoge) has 6x8 speakers in it.
And says 5x7 will fit, so the 6.5" Speaker diameter is 164.7mm and the 5x7 speakers are 140 x 198mm.

Will the 6.5" fit? It would cost me less and to my understanding the vast majority of cars are 6.5" so it would be more universal aswell..

Audiocontrol LC7i w/Harmon Kardon OEM system

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Hey guys, just starting to get my Build going, and am in need of wiring advice. I have a 2015 Subaru STI and am wanting to add 2 JL 10w1 subs into custom fiberglass enclosures. I am not new to installing, but have never used an OEM HU before, so I bought this Audiocontrol LC7i to get the subs going with a Kicker ZR240 I have.

Now as for wiring, I need to know what channels I need to pull the signal from while retaining all the OEM Speaker functions (for now, until I decide to add a 4 channel, new speakers, etc) and this is why I bought the LC7i, rather than the LC2i. Attached are the images of the wiring diagrams for the Car system, any advice as to what wires (speakers) I need to tap into to get a full range signal, and where I should tap into them? Pre amp or post amp etc? Any other items I need to know, etc?
Attachment 78193Attachment 78201Attachment 78209

Pioneer DEH-80PRS active question

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I may look into getting the 80prs as a low cost and simple solution to get better performance by in depth tuning.

What I have now is:
Headunit: Kenwood 148u
Speakers: Pioneer TS-D1330C (front stage)

My question is: is it possible to run this pair of components active only from the headunit with no amplifier? (For example: run the mids off the L/R front channels and the tweeters off the L/R rear channels). My research so far on it doesn't make it seem impossible. Of course adding an amplifier would be 1000x better, but I'm trying to avoid installing an amp for now.

I am assuming I would still be able to control the levels, equalization, time allignment, and crossovers for each individual driver because they would be treated as an individual channel from the headunit.

Thanks for any help

Alpine Items for sale

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Product Brand & Model:
Alpine CDE-HD 149BT head unit. Item is brand new in box, everything comes with it, never been out of the box.

Alpine RUX-C800 & PXA-H800 Dsp. Bought these off of a forum member, both are brand new in box, never seen power, never been out of box.


Condition of all items:

All are brand new in box,


Total Price: :

Price for the 149 is $230.00 shipped in the CONUS.

Price for the DSP and controller is $780.00. shipped in the CONUS.


Shipping Terms: :

Both items have free shipping in the CONUS; if you are interested in one of these items but live outside the US, PM me and I will try to get you a price for shipping to your location, which you will have to pay.



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.

Both items are new in box, but if you want pictures, send me a PM.


Additional info:

Only trades I will entertain would be for a high quality 12" sub, or sub amp.




Thanks for looking at my thread,

Randy


** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Did a set of retrofit headlights for my 2010 Chevy

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I thought that I would share my retrofits I made for my 2010, these will work for a 07-14 Tahoe, Avalanche, or Suburban. I am so happy with the outcome.
I got most everything from the retrofit source I will for sure use them again they have great customer service!!
The Retrofit Source Inc
404-220-7940
I AM DOING MY FOGS IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS!!!
I can’t say enough about them, they took great care of me they helped me a lot.
Parts I used where
LOW’s
BI_Xenon Morimoto mini stage 3 (h1)
I used the 4500k bulbs
Bi-xenon Morimoto Mini Stage III Kit (H1)
DRL’s
I used the
3157 white non ck
3157 XB LED CREE XB-D Headlight marker turn signal bulbs blinkers
Front turns non ck
3157 switchback so these are white when the parking lights are on and when you use the turn signal they turn orange
3157 XB LED CREE XB-D Headlight marker turn signal bulbs blinkers
Front markers
T10/194
T10 XB LED Headlight marker turn signal interior COB bulbs blinkers T10 194

Parts not from the retrofit source
I got my resistors from amazon I did not notice the retrofit source had them until I order these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00
Highs
Amazon.com: Philips 9005 CrystalVision Ultra Replacement Bulb (High-Beam), (Pack of 2): Automotive

Used these for headlights
http://www.amazon.com/CHEVY-AVALANCH...4EPTTVGWQAX4Y5



So I was told that the eagle brand headlights used butyl to hold them together se they are easier to get apart.

I was not allowed to use the oven to soften the lights my wife said no way, so I used a heat gun.
The lights came apart fairly easy just used the heat gun and screw drivers to pry them apart.
Everything after this is fairly straight forward I used a dermal grinder to open the hole up and smooth it out.
Before grinding

After grinding front and back this has to be done to give you enough space to tighten the nut




I used some Loctite Epoxy Putty Multi-Purpose Stick to glue the back together






I used heat sink compound on the back of the resistors when I mounted them. This helps them transfer the heat.
I also solder the wires I am not a fan of the crimp connectors they come with.
Amazon.com: Super Lube 98003 Silicone Heat Sink, 3 oz Tube, White: Industrial & Scientific
I also used Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube on connectors
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058...lectric+grease








DRIVE WAY IS NOT LEVEL!!

Next I am going to do the fog lights
Also plan to change the rear back up lights and brake lights to led
Then my wife’s Honda Pilot, followed by our Toyota Tacoma

The light is great I am so happy, and I won’t blind oncoming drivers

Great condition DLS A3

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Product Brand & Model:
DLS A3


Condition of all items:
Great condition cosmetically.
100% functionality

Just removed from my Car last night. Need $$ :bigcry:


Total Price: :

$350

Shipping Terms: :

Free to 48 states

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.

Pics are here

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rb27fqnw9...KD_ddKDNa?dl=0

Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Jbl gto804 ported box specs??

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I'm picking up 2 jbl gto804 subs today. Recommended ported box size from
Jbl is .6 cubic feet. Anyone ran these? Should I stick to what jbl says? Or has anyone had better results on a different size, and what port tuning frequency?

Zed Leviathan

Anybody installed a large, high power sound quality stereo into 1993- 97 thunderbird,

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Hi, I would like to hear from anybody that has installed a large, high powered ,sound quality stereo into a 1993 - 1997 Ford Thunderbird. I would like to know how much class AB Power you are running,and where you found ,was the very best place to put your ground wire,So there is absolutely no voltage drop. Also are you using a short ground Wire ,and a long dedicated ground wire,and what gauge are you using. Are you guys running a 2 way or 3 way set up in the front,Which do you think sounded the best of the two in the car.,and where exactly did you find you had to place the tweeters,midranges,and midbass speakers to get them to sound their very best,and to image perfectly,and deliver a wide full stage. If you have speakers in the back, what,and where are they located for optimum sound. What deck, amps, and how are you separating all your sound up,and what speakers did you decide on. Hopefully there will be a few Thunderbird owners that have made this a true Thunder Bird. Looking forward to hearing from any ,and all of you. Thanks

FNG

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Hey folks. Newbie to the forum. Am in the process of planning a Build for my new Silverado Crew Cab. Gotta get my post count up to 5 before I can link my wiring diagram. Look forward to learning from the forum. Thanks

Build Check please - '15 Silverado Crew Cab

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Hello folks! First post. Looking to add a sub to my truck and wanted to double check with the fine folks here to make sure my wiring setup looks good. Also have a question about sub/amp pair. I'm looking at two options.

2015 Silverado Crew Cab. A local audio shop in Fort Worth is building a sealed box for under the rear passenger seat for the sub I end up choosing.

Below is my Wire setup. I'll be tapping the rear Speaker Wire for the sound. Plan is to run a LC2i because I am keeping my stock HU. Please take a look and make sure I'm good.

[IMG][/IMG]

1st setup equipment.
Amp:Rockford Fosgate R500X1D
Sub: JL audio 10W3v3-2

2nd setup:
Amp: Pioneer gm-7300m (from previous set up, about 4 years old)
Sub: Focal P25 DB

I'd like thoughts on JL vs Focal and choosing the new RF over my old Pioneer. Obviously the Speaker wiring in the diagram will change with the subs being different Ohms. I am also open to suggestions for different setups. I listen to texas country, rock, bluegrass, classic rock ext. I am looking for this set up to enhance the stock sound with an added bump. I am not looking for so much bass as to rattle the windows on the Car on the other side of the 6 lane highway...

I'd take suggestions on wire brand/size as well as size fuses for the Power wires.

Thanks!

2009 Dodge Challenger Hybrid/Zapco/Stereo Integrity

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So we started off with a pretty much stock 2009 Dodge challenger SRT8, 6 speed manual.



The stock subwoofer and trunk lining was removed.


System Reconfig for 2012 Ram Crew Cab 2500

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Hello to all, long time lurker and general Car audio enthusiast. I have been playing around with Car audio for quite a while and have finally got to where I can appreciate SQ and SPL. I love a deep 15" sub sealed but my current vehicle limits my options as far as space is concerned. I am preparing to re-do the install in my 2012 Ram 2500 Crew Cab Laramie. Currently running factory amp/processor for all the mids/highs and using 2 10" Alpine Type R's for the substage (Fox Acoustics vented box, tuned to 35hz with 1.34 cu ft) powered by a PDX 1.1000, Polk Audio MM 6501 front mid, 3.5" JBL GTO in the front dash (3), and Polk Audio MM651 in the rear doors.

I recently removed my Audio Control LC2i adapter and went with a Pac Audio C2A-CHY23 for a full range signal. At this point have purchased or have sitting on a shelf an MS8, Stereo Integrity TM65 (mid), NVX XSPTW (tweeter), Vibe Litebox 4 and a lot of wiring and cables. The plan is to do more sound deadening in the cab and doors, mount the TM in the factory front door location, NVXs may go in the factory dash location, or if I am unhappy with that, I will make pods for the A pillar. Throw the MS8 in which will have the front comps active, powered of the Vibe 4, The MS8 will then Power the center channel and rear doors. While the PDX will Power the subs.

Now, even though I have all of this equipment, I am open to ideas. I love the output of the Type R's but also am aware that the SQ may be limited due to low sensitivity. Appreciate any type of input and direction you knowledgeable folks can give me.

My musical tastes vary. Hip Hop, country, pop, rock, audio books etc... I really do listen to many things and am not above listen to the Wiggles when the kids demand. I wouldn't say I have an unlimited budget and find that I prefer performance over money so I suppose cost is a concern. So, suggest away. Thanks,

Legatia L1 Pro R2 Tweeters

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Product Brand & Model:
Hybrid audio - Legatia L1 Pro R2 Tweeters


Condition of all items:
Mint - minimal usage


Total Price: :
$450


Shipping Terms: :



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:

Purchased these a few years back on here but never installed them myself. They are in mint condition, little to no usage from the previous owner.







** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other Car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio & Collova Media Inc. is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

2008 tsx amp install and speaker upgrade

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ive been reading some posts on installing an amp and using the factory HU but am reluctant because of problems had due to the signal coming from the factory HU. There is a amp bypass harness and Line out converter/audiocontrol preamp that i thought would work but not sure. Has any one upgraded the speakers and amp with success in one of these? I know about a harness (mercman) that someone made that cant be purchased any longer and just figured id reach out to this forum for help. It seems like from what ive read that there are several issues with these cars stereo upgrade. Thanks Jim

Multi power battery pack for Canon 60D

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I used this thing once.decided it's too bulky for my camera bag.you can use it with original canon battery or two. Or 8 AA batteries. yours for 35 bucks

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

Gain knob position

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I'm setting the gains on a pg ti21600.5 and there aren't any indicators on the gain knobs to use. So on a knob that like most that starts at 7oclock and ends at 5oclock with a range from 200 millivolts to 8 volts, where would you set the knob to hit 2 volts?
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