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Daily driven Dodge Challenger Budget SQ Build

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Hey guys I’m finally getting some time to finally to focus back on my Audio Build. I started a log a while back, which got deleted with other logs. So here is the new one. This build is on my daily driven Dodge Challenger RT Which I got brand new back in 2011. Other then custom wheels , Accuair Air suspension not much has been upgraded over the years. Goal for this build is to get best possible sound in all oem locations while staying under the $4k budget. All while Keep the oem look and function of the interior much as possible. Also to use least amount of equipment as possible.

The vehicle came with the Amplified Boston 6 speaker 276w system. So I decided to use a total of 6 new speakers for the new system as well. 2 wide-Band, 2 mid bass drivers and two subwoofers. Sure I could use more drivers, that would’ve cause me to build Pilars. Which wouldn’t align with one of the goals, so I needed to keep the oem stealth look using factory locations. Powering the system I wanted to use a single amplifier/ dsp provide power and processing for the entire system. For the source, I needed a modern headunit that would provide clean sound and features and conveniences I would use on a daily basis.
The Kenwood unit fit the bill for this choice.

The trunk build will take on a more custom build, but still have a some what stealth appearance. Not highlighting equipment brands but more of the build of the panels function and lines of the build. Since all the air suspension equipment is in the trunk all of the current setup will be rebuilt along with this build. So I will post the progress as I move along when having some free time.
Below are the brands and models I decided to go with for this build.


Source - Kenwood DDX 9705S Android Auto/ CarPlay Unit (hi res audio flac, Maestro oem Interface K40 Radar dvr Camera)
Processing/power - Helix P SIX MKII DSP 6ch Amplifier
Processor controller- Helix Director
Wide-band Drivers - HAT Legatia L3SE (location dash)
Midbass Drivers - HAT Unity U69 2ohm version midbass (Location doors)
Sub(s) - Audiomobile EVO 10 (location sealed enclosure trunk)

Power layout (6channels)
120w @ 4ohms to L3SE Drivers each side.
230w @ 2ohms to U69 Drivers each side.
230w x 2 @ 2 ohms to Two Audiomobile Evo 10D4












Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Patreon?

FS: Audio Frog GS60 BNIB - $210 Shipped

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Product Brand & Model:

Audio Frog GS60

Condition of all items:

Brand New in Box

Total Price: :

$210 Shipped

Shipping Terms: :

Will be shipped and tracking number provided

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:


Bought new from an authorized dealer last year. Have been sitting in the cabinet the last year. Going with the GB60 instead.





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Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Volume Potentiometer

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What is the correct way to work out which volume potentiometer I will need in a simple single speaker arrangement of say 20w max input.. looking for an off/low-full volume linearity..? Cheers

Blown Idmax 10s, Recone possible?

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Ok guys well I was goin through my moms garage last weekend and lookie what I found... Saw a black box in corner n said huh that sorta looks like a sub enclosure, then the closer I got I was like wit a minute that is a sub enclosure, wtf? Funny because 2017 in like October I was in my moms garage n same thing happened, I found my 10 yr old Kicker 15L7 in a huge 4.5ft^3 box, had stuff on top and around it, it's why I never noticed it. That setup actually still worked, put it in my 03 Escalade and ran it up until I sold it in October.

This find was way more exciting but disappointing. I couldnt remember what this enclosure had, so I finally get to it, turn it around and.... 2 10" IDMAX!!! Totally forgot I still had them, thought they were long gone, ran them in 2006 in my Lexus IS300, had a 99 Durango at the time which was my dbdrag vehicle so had to have something in my other vehicle. Man these were such amazing subs, unfortunately the amp I was running a refurbished Avionixxx 1200.T crapped the bed and in return blew both subs. I took them out n must have put them in my moms garage, then I got out of the hobby from 2008-2017 and totally forgot about them. Sitting for 11 years in a Northeastern garage didnt do them any favors. 1 was taken out of the box and left to sit out next to it, the other 1 is still in the box, I imagine that 1 is probably in much better shape than the 1 I took pictures of.

Anyways a few ppl told me I could recone them, so I decided to bring it to you guys for answers I trust. First problem is I dont know if they're the V.2 or V.3s. From what I gathered a V.2 has to be altered to be reconed, where as a V.3 you can just purchase a recone kit from ID and do it yourself. If this is the case I need to know which version I have, I've tried to search it with mixed results, some say the triple stacked magnet is a V.3 but then theres other info/pictures that show the V.3 with the double stacked magnet. So any help determining which version I have would be of great help. Then finally with the condition they're in will a recone be worth it? I know if I can get them playing again that these are some of the best subs ever made and are worth it, but if its going to take more than a recone then I dont know...

Thanks guys, heres the pics (Again this is the 1 that has been out of the enclosure the entire time where as the other sub is still mounted in the box)Attachment 235717Attachment 235719Attachment 235721

KEF KAR, OS Soundstream, Focal

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Product Brand & Model:

1. KEF KAR 160Q-ultra rare. Maybe the best point source drivers I've ever heard. I don't know where the passive crossovers are but, they were maybe the worst physical/logistical design I've seen. The drivers have separate inputs so I ran them active off an Arc XXK 4150 for almost a year. Sound great!

2. Focal PC165 coax - nice plug and play option. Tweeters are movable. Ran about 9 months on an Arc/Sundown prototype amp with 150wrms. Good sound and versatile.

3. Soundstream Ref 414s - brand new. Never powered. Bought off a friend who bought an old audio shop and this was left in a display case. Unfortunately there a couple of nicks on the heat sink fine but, other than that, this amp is untouched. See pic of mounting holes.


Condition of all items:

1. 9.5/10

2. 9/10

3. 9.9/10

Total Price: :

1. $250

2. $150

3. $225

All items are OBO, as long as they're reasonable.

Shipping Terms: :

I usually include shipping but prices are really ridiculous now so, I'll split actual costs with buyer to lower 48.

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.

https://imgur.com/a/Wrbeolp

https://imgur.com/a/9EX7hsB

The Alpine in the second photo album is already gone.

Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

2009 Cadillac STS Audio Overhaul - Sony, Helix, Arc, Dynaudio, Scanspeak

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So this build log is for Scott, who just so happens to be an audiophiles audiophile with a bit of a taste for high output. More so than any other person i've done a build for on that last one. When he called me and told me hes been planning this build for something like 5+ years and finally found someone he was comfortable enough with to let take on his vision. You guys may remember his other car that i built, which was the Buick Enclave that we did back in the summer. He later revealed that the build in that car was essentially the try-outs for this build. I guess we made the team lol.

This build consisted of a lot of really nice gear that he has been collecting for the past few years. The lineup includes:

Sony RSX-GS9
Helix DSP Pro mk2 & Helix Director
(2) Arc Audio SE4200
Arc Audio SE2300
(2) Dynaudio Esotar e1200 subwoofers
Dynaudio Esotec MW182 10" midbass drivers
Dynaudio Esotar e430 4" midrange drivers
Scanspeak R2004 tweeters
Cascade Audio Engineering sound treatment material

The main requirements for this build: Pure, accurate reproduction with no compromises in achieving that. High output. No rattles, resonance, and an overall quieter ride. Overall looks/design were not of any priority (we still refused to make it anything near unpleasing to the eye), but retaining some trunk space and usability was.

Scott can chime in if he wants, but i think we took those goals and smashed em.








First up was getting the Sony GS9 and Helix Director installed. Kevin handled this, and most of the labor for this build while i directed and designed the layout. We used the Helix DMP to house the director, then fabricated a bezel that flushed it to the dash kit and GS9. After Kevin fabricated it, i prepped it for paint and primed it, painted, and cleared it. Here it is after a couple layers of primer.










Here comes something ive never *fully* done (at least to this extent) in a car before.. 100% coverage soundproofing. CLD, CCF, MLV, insulation, and a few other products that Cascade Audio Engineering makes. We first started with some Sound Deadener Showdown CLD tiles on the floor where needed, then covered in a peel and stick closed cell foam. After the closed cell foam, we did 100% coverage of Cascade Audio Engineering VB4 (closed cell foam and MLV) on the floor. The transmission tunnel got 100% coverage of their VB3, which in my opinion, was freakin awesome. Its a thin sheet of lead sandwiched between closed cell foam. Its extremely dense (more so than MLV while also being much thinner) and moldable. All overlaps were taped down. Take note to the fiberglass insulation in all voids like the B-pillars, wheel well areas, quater panels, etc. Before you ask, no, we are not worried about mold. Fiberglass is non organic. If moisture even gets to it, it will not grow mold. This was confirmed beforehand by my part time employee Matei, who happens to be a certified mold inspector as well as first hand experience with using fiberglass insulation in my own car. Not recommended to shove in your doors to absorb the rear wave for your midbass though. After that, the carpet (reluctantly) went back in. Then came the trunk, which got the same treatment.
















And then the doors. Sound Deadener Showdown Tiles on the outer door skin, and their Sheets along with a few tiles on the inner door skin. 20 Blackhole Tiles were used in each door to help absorb the rear wave from the midbass drivers.After that came closed cell foam.

I just realized i dont have pics of the MW182's installed with the Corian baffles. Damn. Well, while they were a direct fit, they only were by about a millimeter in all directions. A bolt on the window track needed to be shaved down just a hair so the window didnt scrape the back of the speaker.










The "Big 3" was performed under the hood, where the fuse holder was mounted on a steel bracket. A dedicated 0 gauge ground run was run to the front from the trunk at the request of Scott. Another cool thing with the ground which we forgot to get pics of (i'll ask him to send some).. He found a marine power meter that he had us install. It goes in line with your ground. It accurately measures voltage, amperage, wattage, battery capacity, etc etc, real time. The controller for it was mounted in the center console.








Once the sound deadening/proofing was done we started sketching up and planning out the trunk. While we were going to go with 3 of the Dynaudio Esotar subs in an infinite baffle configuration, we opted for 2 in a sealed enclosure due to the size of the trunk. The 3 just wouldnt have fit right. The enclosure ended up being about 1.3 cubic feet per side and was made out of 3/4" B/BB grade Baltic Birch with a brace in the center that splits it into two separate chambers. Sorry, no pics on the construction of the amp rack build, but heres a few shots of Kevin making the beauty panel










Us probably laughing at what someone said on DIYMA.. lol








Sub enclosure beauty panel before upholstery, also made out of baltic birch. We pretty much stopped using MDF for most things.








Next up, I deadened the door panels using Cascade Audio Engineering VB2, which according to the website "is a thin, moldable, odorless and lightweight mineral filled vinyl-copolymer formulated to handle the demanding extremes of aircraft vibration and noise control."

Essentially, you heat it up so until its loose, apply it (its peel and stick), and when it cools its much stiffer. I'm not sure how it does vs traditional CLD type deadener, but it seems to do well in both of his cars that i have done (the Buick Enclave i did back in the summer was his also).










Next up were the dash pods which Kevin built. Unfortunately i did not snap any photos of the build process. I did however take some of the pressed grills i made for them. Here you can see the jig and the templates that were used.










The outer edge of the grills were made out of acrylic and were beveled on the inside and outside and were painted and clear coated to match.








The Arc Audio SE amps that he purchased from someone else came with their center panels painted red. No thanks. Painted and cleared with the same color as the grill trim rings and the director bezel.








Sub enclosure, beauty panel, trunk floor side panels all upholstered and installed. Everything in the trunk is press fit. Kevin truly is nice with it in that regard.








And then the beauty panel for the amps was upholstered and installed.








Last but not least, the grill for the subwoofers to protect them from anything he may put in the trunk.










Amp rack beauty panel. As said before, everything we have been making recently has been purely out of B/BB grade Baltic Birch. Even though its not as cheap as MDF, it has been better in every other way.








I was waiting for them when i walked by the garage door and saw him taking photos of (what i presume to be) the overall look of the car now vs how it came. It was detailed and buffed by Malibu Detailing, who happens to be located in the suite right next door to me. This is now included on all of our large scale builds. I









The paint before..








The paint before/after. It honestly looked like a whole new car when it was done.








So taking Scotts "Looks are not important, make it sound as good as it possibly can" into account, this is what we came up with for the midrange and tweeter. We were actually supposed to use a Dynaudio Esotar e110 tweeter, but their size made it pretty much impossible to get optimal speaker locations. While it took some convincing, Scott finally agreed that going with a smaller tweeter to get a much better location was the best route to take. The pods are attached to the metal of the car underneath the pillars and are fully sealed in about 1 liter of airspace, which is more than enough for the e430 midrange drivers. The baffle was made out of 3/8" cast cell acrylic and is tapped for some black cap head screws. They were wrapped in OEM vinyl.
















The Helix Director and Sony RSX-GS9 installed and in action. We changed the director color to match the HVAC controls below it.










Heres the trunk with all of the covers installed. Sorry for the poor photo. Bad lighting/angle i guess.








And heres what you see once you pop that center carpeted panel up. 3 power houses staring right at you.










And with the subwoofer cover off..










Remember when i said i think we smashed the goals on this build? Well, here ya go :)

Also, i may or may not be writing build logs at 3:30 in the morning...

Thanks again Scott!














Thanks for looking! Let us know what you think, and please feel free to ask away about the build. I'm open to answering all questions about why things were done the way they were.

Wtb Audio Development w800neo or sw800

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Looking for a steal on a set of either one of these. Pm me with pics and price

Help with Helix DSP, Leesburg, FL

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I am in need of help tuning my system with a Helix DSP. I live in The Villages, FL so anywhere near there...Leesburg, Fruitland Park, Wildwood, Lady Lake.
Replies here or to ws65insd at google thank you and any help is greatly appreciated.
Bill

FOR SALE (CHEAP): JVC KW-ADV794 Double-Din Headunit

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Product Brand & Model: JVC KW-ADV794


Condition of all items: Used, functional


Total Price: : $75 obo



Shipping Terms: : $15 CONUS



Additional info: Received this in trade for some work. It's an older unit but looks great.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-27ZKG1...KW-ADV794.html


Pictures: -













** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

47 Feet of 1/0 LightingAudio Power Cable

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LightingAudio: 47 feet of 1/0 Red insulated Power Cable



Never Installed:



$75: :



Local Pickup or I'll ship at cost: :



:

- Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


I bought this for relocating my battery but it was just too much trouble for me. The cable has been in my garage for a while and it's time to find someone who can use it.:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Hi

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Hi everyone,

I'm new to custom audio setups, but I have a very basic understanding of electronics. I've made a few electronics projects, but not much with audio systems.

Currently I'm working on turning my Alpine Car headunit into a portable home sound system. I have 2 head units, CDA-9807 and CDA-9805 and a 6 disc changer with necessary cabling. I also have the Aux cable which has to be changed over with the disc changer currently. I'm hoping to combine the AUX cable into the Ai-net changer cable with some form of interrupt or one way diode. I already have a bluetooth module with an interupt which will work, but I still want the AUX cable if at all possible.

Hopefully I'll find some new friends here that have some ideas. :)

Thanks.

Can I install MLV above headliner?

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Well, it's in the title. Can the headliner support a loose sheet of MLV? The typical stuff is 1lb per sq. ft. Will it be too heavy? What about the 1/2lb sq ft variety?

Thanks

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I cant really express how much I love my x15. It's by far the cleanest and widest bandwidth setup I've had ever.

So thanks to everyone involved.

Audi A3 8P sportback - front stage

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Hi all

Am looking for some advice on my front stage speakers.

I mostly listen to older electronic music and older acid house, and then sometimes newer house music, classic rock, radio pop music. At home I have some 20yo B&W's which I love, and some newer Q Acoustics which have better imaging, but I love the brighter 'sound' of the B&W's.

For car audio I've used in the past:
Infinity References - sounded like distorted horror
Older Clarion HX components - I like a lot
Alpine R-S65C - very clean but a bit fatiguing on long journeys
Active 4-way frankenstein (Vifa XT25 / Dayton RS100 / Dayton RS150 / Boston Acoustics 12.5LF) - I ended up dropping back to just the RS75 fullrange + sub because it sounded better :-D

Current gear for this car:
Alpine CDA-137EBT head unit
Zapco ST-6X DSP (100W@4R / 150W@2R x6) - not purchased yet, will run front stage 2-way active, then use 2 channels bridged for the sub.
Boston Acoustics 12.5LF 12" sub
Leaving the rear doors factory - I prefer not to have "rear fill", they will just be off unless someone in the back seat specifically asks me to fade them in.

The component sets I'm considering are: (prices in New Zealand dollars!)
DD Audio CC6.5 - $499 - auditioned, very nice indeed
Focal PS 165F - $525 - will try and audition on Monday
Hertz MPK165.3 - $599 - never heard, nearest stockist is 8 hours away
Rainbow SL-C6.5 - $599 - never heard, nearest stockist is 8 hours away

From reading reviews I think the Rainbows might be my cup of tea; any advice to the contrary?

Note that it's now VERY expensive to import into New Zealand with shipping and various duties and taxes, and our dollars do not buy much compared to USD (and I can't realistically return or make warranty claims). It would be more expensive for me to import a set of SB Acoustics drivers from Madisound than to buy the DD Audio set. So I've decided to buy something retail from a NZ distributor. I am fine paying for crossovers I won't use for this build. (I may use them in a future car.)

Thanks for any and all advice on those components!

Autodek Dyna Power amp

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Good day. I need schematics of any type for this 4ch amp. Can someone help me please? Thank you in advance

is the JBL MS8 sill worth buying

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I trying to put together an above average system with VERY limited funds. I using some of my older amps (US Amps and Alpline 35 series). I wanted to add a dsp. A local CarToys has an open-box JBL MS8 for sale for less than $250. Is the MS8 still worth buying? I really can't spend more than a few hundred on a dsp. Thoughts? :)

Sound deadening help

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I have invested a lot of time and money into sound deadening my car. I'm trying to further deaden my car. I don't know what else I could do to help more material wise. Would a dual aluminum pad with foam insulation inside be worth it to add?

This is what I have through most of my car currently. In certain parts I have 2 layers of white open cell foam and mlv/closed cell foam. I have a roll of 8" thick egg crate acoustic foam in my trunk on top of this. I also have a roll of thinsulate sm600l that's unused.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20190104_094559_1546623988974.jpg (867.3 KB)

Hi. Newbie from VA

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I've been lurking for several months and decided I should say hello. Tons of great information on here. So thanks to everyone that shares their knowledge. I worked in the industry 20 years ago. Haven't had a decent system in my car for over 15 years. Last equipment I owned was a Sony C90, McIntosh amps, and Boston Acoustics speakers.

Recently purchased a 2012 Mercedes E63 and decided to install something nice. Which turned into wanting to go all out. Partially due to all the research I was doing on here. :mean:

I'm in Northern Virginia, don't really have the time to install it myself (and I want it to be good), so Chris at Driven Mobile Electronics in Chantilly will be doing all the work.

The current plan is to use mostly Audison and Morel. That may change. I look at that McIntosh MC4000M on ebay almost everyday. Anyway, I've enjoyed my time lurking on here and seeing all the build logs.

Zed Audio Leviathan III, A/d/s PQ20 and more...

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