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RCA suggestions

January 5, 2019, 12:45 pm
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Just wanted some thoughts on RCA cables. I'll need some for 5 channels but since i am adding a bass knob then that complicates things a bit. Otherwise I would just get a singular 6 channel set.

So, a 4 channel RCA that is about 10-12 ft is plenty for most the mids and highs. Then for the sub I would need one ~3 ft two channel and one ~6 ft two channel.

I have heard of Stinger but other than that I'm just not sure what brands are best. How is NVX?
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FEELS GREAT TO BE BACK

January 5, 2019, 1:41 pm
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Hello it feels so good to be back in car audio. I was a car audio salesman for 10 yrs and loved it. Things have changed so much since 2008. just feels good to be back.
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2013 lincoln mkt amp replacement

January 5, 2019, 1:43 pm
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looking for any help on the best way to cleanly add amp to my factory system.
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JL Audio 4x8ft Banner

January 5, 2019, 2:05 pm
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I’ve had this for a while now, hanging in my garage. Trying to scrape together some funds so I’m clearing out the garage.

I’d rate the overall condition at 8/10. No discoloration. There’s a couple minor wear areas (worst one included in the pictures) and some paint spots at the edges which can probably be scraped off pretty easily.

Banner is about 4 ft tall and 8 ft wide.

Asking $75. Price includes shipping in CONUS.









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Double Sub Wiring and Amp

January 5, 2019, 2:39 pm
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Currently running a 10” kicker sub in their own box and it’s a decent unit... I’m thinking of adding a second one of these as the box they come in fits perfectly between the front and rear seats when I fold the rear seats forward. I’m currently using a small amp under the drivers seat and was wondering what amp I should upgrade to to run two of these subs and how do I wire it in?

Link to the sub for reference:

https://www.kicker.com/comp-10-4-ohm-subwoofer
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FS JBL MS-8 UNIT ONLY

January 5, 2019, 4:13 pm
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Item: JBL MS-8 UNIT ONLY
Condition: USED
Price: $115
Shipping: On Me
Additional Info: Unit worx perfect. Only thing is the unit has no internal amp and has to be used with external amps. As long as you use the unit with external amps the unit will work perfect. I have sold several of these units on diyma and all work perfect.
Pictures:
Will post them shortly


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Center Console Sub in my Suburban!

January 5, 2019, 4:38 pm
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So I finished this center console subwoofer I’ve been working on. It houses a pioneer tsw1200pro and I still managed to build in some storage space. I wanted this set up so I can have my tunes and have full cargo space too! It sounds awesome, better than my last sub...having it up front really increases the staging effect, as well as the impact of kick drums. The sub is responsive and I can hear subtle differences in the bass that I couldn’t hear before. The box is 1.5 cubes of 3/4 mdf, reinforced with dowels, and a 3” precision port. I coated it inside and out with rubber leak seal to protect against moisture and spills. I added a cup holder and locking removable lid too. It took a lot of time, especially the mounts, and I’m
Pretty excited about it. I’ve been wanting to build this since 2016, lol. Finally the stars aligned. What do you think?!

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FS: Audible Physics 3 way setup

January 5, 2019, 6:13 pm
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PRICE $550 PLUS SHIPPING
We can also talk about making some 3d printed pods for the tweeters and maybe the RG100 for an additional cost


Used Audible Physics Ar20 Tweeter, used for 1-2 seasons lovely tweeter will come with flush cups only.
T/S parameters:
Impedance: 4 ohms
Re: 3.7 Ohms
Fs: 2250 Hz
Qms: 1.958
Qes: 6.235
Qts: 1.49
Sensitivity: 91 (1w/1m)
Sensitivity2: 94 (2.83/1m)

Specifications:
Frequency response: 2.25KHz – 20KHz
Recommended usable range: 4.5KHz – 20KHz @ 24dB
Power handling at recommend crossover point: 50 Watts RMS

Mounting:
Overall Diameter: 31.75mm (1.6”)
Overall Diameter with flush mount cup: 44.5mm (2”)
Mounting Cutout with flush mount cup: 38 mm (1.5”)
Mounting Depth: 14mm (.55”)
Mounting Depth with flush mount cup: 15mm (.60”)

Used set of Audible Physics H6mb 6.5inch midbass again used for 1-2 seasons
Has some glue residue on the flanges from the fastrings
T/S parameters:
Impedance: 4 ohms
Re: 3.6 Ohms
Fs: 56Hz
Qms: 5.12
Qes: .82
Qts: .71
Linear Xmax: 4mm +/-
BL: 4.9 Tm
Sd: 137 cm2
Mms: 16.02 grams
Vas: 13.5 Liters
Sensitivity: 86.4 (1w/1m)
Sensitivity2: 89.4 (2.83/1m)

Specifications:
Frequency Response: 50hz – 4.5khz
Recommended usable range: 55hz – 3khz @ 24dB
Power handling without high-pass crossover: 40 watts RMS
Power handling at recommend crossover point: 150 watts RMS

Mounting:
Overall Diameter: 166mm (6.5”)
Mounting Cutout: 144.75 mm (5.7”)
Mounting Depth: 71mm (2.8”)
Magnet Diameter: 75mm (3”)
Flange Thickness: 4mm (.16”)

Used set of Audible Physics RG100 4ohm used these for 1 season, just removed 2 months ago to as I no longer needed a wideband midrange.

Some of the basket powder coat is chipping and the grill rings are cosmetically a little beat up functions as designed still holds the grill.

Znom 4 ohm
Re 3.71 ohm
Le 0.7 mh @ 1khz
FS 89 Hz
Qms 1.73
Qes .67
Qts 0.49
Mms 3.64 g
Cms 0.92 mm /N
Cone Diameter 7.1 cm
Sd 39.6 sq cm
Vas 2.03 L
Bl 3.46 Tm
SPL 85 db / 1m / 1 watt
Voice Coil Diameter 25.5 mm
Xmax +/- 5 mm
Power Handling 20 watts
Recommended Range 80-20,000 hz

Attached Images
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Running DSP - is mid quality important?

January 5, 2019, 7:41 pm
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I have most of my system setup and it sounds pretty darn good.

Running old school MB Quart 4 channel to the Alpine SPX (ebay) tweeters in pods on axis on the dash.

Dayton 4x8 DSP

I went to throw in my mid drivers in the front doors and the window track is right there and not giving me much more than 2.75" of depth (with as much spacer I can fit under the door panel) so I left the factory speakers which are the upgraded premium speakers (still crappy)

But anyway with some eq'ing they sound good. Handling all the power I am throwing at them (IDK for how long)

So here is my question, with the great processing power we now what is the difference between quality drivers (that need little eq) and crappier drivers (that need much more eq) as far as the end result?

Does it really matter that much anymore?

I feel like shallow speakers that will fit my mounting depth wont be much better than the factory speakers I have or am I wrong?

BTW I ran these same factory speakers on the amp before the DSP and thought they sounded like poo, the DSP really brought them to life (IMO)
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Setting up 6 Speaks of different sizes with HU and Amp

January 5, 2019, 8:49 pm
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Hi All,

I am new to the car audio world and I am looking form some help in the set up and which parts to buy.

I upgrades my Cars speakers as followed

Dash :
4", RMS 30w@4

Front Door:
9x6", RMS 90W@4

Read Door
6,5", RMS 40W@4

At the moment I run the Dash and Front Door in parallel, the issue is that the Dash is louder that the Door.

Q: Can put something in front of the Dash Speaker to adjust the sound level?

Q: Can I run the Dash Speaker of the Head Unit and the Frond and Rear of the 4 wasy amp? How do I go about to adjust the sound levels?

You help is very much appreciated.

Best regards
Stefan
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Selling my A/D/S P840

January 5, 2019, 8:49 pm
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Using Room EQ Wizard with an 80PRS, help?

January 6, 2019, 2:23 am
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Following some of the very helpful suggestions I've received on this forum, I've installed and set up my system. These are the components I'm using:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit
Focal PS-165F component speakers
Morel Ultimo SC 124 12" subwoofer
Arc Audio XDi850 5 channel amp
Arc Audio KS-1200.1 mono amp

I did have some rear fill speakers but I've opted not to use those and instead bi-amp the front speakers in Network Mode on the 80PRS so I can better tune the system.

These are the crossover points and slopes that I'm currently using:

Subwoofer LPF 60hz 24db slope
Midbass HPF 60hz LPF 3.15khz 24db slope
Tweeters HPF 3.15khz 24db slope

Do these sound good?


I just received a UMIK-1 measuring microphone and I'm planning on using Room EQ Wizard to really tune everything perfectly. I'd like to use Hanatsu's "First-timers guide to measuring your system" guide.

However I'm not really understanding a few steps so I hope someone could help me out.

I'm confused about how Time Alignment fits into the tuning process.

Do I first do Time Alignment with the 80PRS supplied microphone before running the measurements? Or should I ignore the automatic time alignment procedure and do it manually with the much better UMIK-1 microphone?

But how does this interact with setting Levels in the guide? If I'm trying to ensure that the speakers are outputting the same volume on the Left and Right, I'd have to be sure that the microphone is exactly the same distance between each speaker, correct?

Another thing that is confusing me is that after I do the automatic Time Alignment procedure then set the Position to, say, Front Left, the levels on the tweeters are set differently. When I choose Front Left, the Left tweeter is set at -3db while the right tweeter is set at 0. Whereas if I choose Front Right the Left tweeter is set at 0db while the Right tweeter is set at -3db. When I set Front, both are set at -1db.

Maybe this is a very dumb question, but I thought that Time Alignment simply delayed the sound but didn't actually reduce the volume of any of the speakers?

Could someone please tell me the correct way to set Time Alignment and levels referencing the guide I linked to?

Also, what is the target curve I should be aiming for?

I'm a little confused about how I can apply this guide to the particular head unit I've got. I'd really appreciate any help you could offer.
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From Romania, Europe

January 6, 2019, 5:05 am
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Hello everybody,
My name is Alexander (samyaza on forum) and I'm from Romania.

I'm an economist as profession and have also tons of hobbies. One of them is music. I tried worked in production, made some music myself not a big thing. Recently I changed the car and I want to consult people in here on how to develop the sound system little by little.

I worked also for BOSE (talking about sound) in my country.

I think I can be of some help with info about sound physics, and why not some theoretical/practical things.

Cheers and see you on the forum.
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Sound for Mercedes Benz C Klasse W203

January 6, 2019, 5:20 am
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Hello everybody.
One month ago I got myself a nice Mercedes C Klasse W203 from 2002 (in fact is a S203 because is T-Modell - estate).
The standard sound system is very obsolete so I'm willing to change it. I don't have too much money to invest and I will try to do most with what I have but I want also to consult with you.

Before that I had a Mitsubishi Colt from 2006. It used both front and back 13 cm speakers. I bought the Pioneer TS-A systems for the front (two ways with separate tweeters) and the 3 way on the back. I won't give the codes because I had the sensation this forum is from US and in Europe Pioneer is using another system.

I powered them with a Sony XM-N1004 4x70W RMS.
My head unit is a Pioneer X5900 BT (reads FLAC at any samplerate/bitdepth and has 6 x RCA outs, front, back and sub - or network).

My sub is a Focal SB25A1 Twin 2x200W RMS 25cm speakers.
Power: a Helix Deep Blue 4.

In fact I had a small Alpine self powered sub which I exchanged for this pack with Focal and Helix amp. However I can bridge the channels and deliver enough power for it (even if I would prefer a mono amp).

Now what you would recommend? To find to buy the TS-A 17 cm (for the Mercedes) and use the old TS-A 13cm for the back of my car?
Or I should try to sell the Pioneers and get something else?

I'm tempted by the Infinity Kappa series. I never heard them but they have 2 ohms, 90W RMS (the 17cm ones) and I can step up the game with the amp I already have. My Sony does 2 Ohms.

If now what you would recommend?
I have the adaptor rings for the Mercedes W203, bought them separately.

Cheers and a happy new year!
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WTB: Mobridge DA1 / Audison DMI

January 6, 2019, 6:21 am
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Product Brand & Model:

I'm looking to tap into my MOST network and would like to find a DA1, DMI or even the Helix SDMI25. If anyone is holding onto one please let me know.


Condition of all items:

Used or new.


Total Price: :

Lower the better.

Shipping Terms: :

I will pay shipping.

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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Looking for a ppi frx 456 crossover

January 6, 2019, 6:53 am
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Was looking to purchase ppi frx456 crossover .looking for a silver color but any color will work
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Audison Voce 5.1k and Bit ten with new Drc

January 6, 2019, 6:55 am
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Selling my current set up as a package deal. Both are in great shape cosmetically and perfectly working as they are running my current set up in my work van. Just switching to a 3 way active set up so i need more channels.

Selling the 5.1k amp with bit ten and drc for $1000.

It is still installed but I can work out details with buyer. Shoot me a pm if interested.

Thought i had a pic of the amp and bit ten installed but i don’t so I’ll get one Monday when i go to my work again.

Also I do have the original packaging.

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FS: AudioFrog GB40, GB10, GB410c

January 6, 2019, 8:51 am
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Product Brand & Model:

Audiofrog component kit containing sets of GB40 mids, GB10 tweeters and GB410c crossovers.

Condition of all items:

All items have been used except one GB40 which is new. All mounting hardware, grills and rings are new except for one GB40 which the mounting ring was installed. Everything that was used is in excellent shape.

Total Price: :

$800USD

Willing to split up the kit although I will need to have a buyer for the crossovers before I sell the tweeters.

Shipping Terms: :

Shipping included for my asking price to USA and Canada. Double boxed and insured.

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.







Additional info:

I purchased this kit from two members on this forum. My intention was to run one set as a center then try to sell the other side. The fit wasn't great and I didn't want to modify the car too much. Might try with a coaxial like the C4CX instead. Everything looks to be in pristine condition.






** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
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WTB flush mount for helix director

January 6, 2019, 8:59 am
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Just like the title says I’m looking for the flush mount for the Helix Director . If ya got one let me know
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Pioneer output less than 4 volts

January 6, 2019, 9:07 am
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Hi all, sorry if it's been covered. Just installed a pioneer avh x4700bs in my 16 gti. I can't get an unclipped signal above 3v on my scope with 0db test tones. I've tried numerous volume, source level and speaker levels with no success. It's in network mode. Sub is lo pass at 80hz, i used a 40hz tone. Mid is 80 to 1600hz, used a 400hz tone, highs are 4k, used an 8khz tone. Im leaning towards the pioneer not getting 14.4v with the car running. Sound reasonable or am i missing something else?
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