Ones everyone's take on it? I'm looking into 6ch amps so I can maybe only run 2 amps instead of 3 and save space. It's just an amp I've never used
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Helix Msix
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WTB: Scanspeak 12mu 4.5” mids
Would like to buy a set of Scanspeak 12mu 4.5” mids in good working condition.
Just figured I’d try here before I buy them new.
Thanks!
Just figured I’d try here before I buy them new.
Thanks!
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New Member Intro
Hi All,
I have been lurking for a while, decided to join so I could ask some specific questions. I spent a full hour writing up my first post, didnt realize the 5 post thing was for starting threads in general, not just for the classifieds- so here I go!
I have done car audio stuff in the past, but was all professionally installed. I am embarking on my first journey DIY. I have a 2008 C6 Z06 and will be upgrading the factory bose system. I had a 4400nex installed professionally, but the rest will be me. I look forward to getting to know everyone!
Cheers
NP Doom
I have been lurking for a while, decided to join so I could ask some specific questions. I spent a full hour writing up my first post, didnt realize the 5 post thing was for starting threads in general, not just for the classifieds- so here I go!
I have done car audio stuff in the past, but was all professionally installed. I am embarking on my first journey DIY. I have a 2008 C6 Z06 and will be upgrading the factory bose system. I had a 4400nex installed professionally, but the rest will be me. I look forward to getting to know everyone!
Cheers
NP Doom
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Hertz Mille legend 1800.3 and 280.3
Product Brand & Model: Hertz Mille Legend 1800.3 midbass and 280.3 tweeter
Condition of all items: Midbass have some foam/adhesive from fast rings on the lip. These is also a small amount on the surround. I imagine it would come off but I figured I would leave that to the buyer. They work perfectly and will come with a set of CNC'f 1/4 spacers.
280.3 look great and work perfectly.
Total Price: :$550 shipped
Shipping Terms: :Included in 48
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
Condition of all items: Midbass have some foam/adhesive from fast rings on the lip. These is also a small amount on the surround. I imagine it would come off but I figured I would leave that to the buyer. They work perfectly and will come with a set of CNC'f 1/4 spacers.
280.3 look great and work perfectly.
Total Price: :$550 shipped
Shipping Terms: :Included in 48
Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.
Additional info:
** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:
1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.
DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.
DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.
↧
2008 Civic SI/ ScanSpeak 7 inch revelator door install and rubber boot wire fish.
Well after seeing what the all the fuss was about from other owners with talk of molex wire harness plugs and such I can now say "Yes I have felt your pain". Wouldnt have had any problem splicing into the factory wire with an amp bypass harness if it were not for the fact that the stock wire looks to be maybe 20 awg...Out of principle I am not going to connect Scanspeak revelator to 20 awg wire...Just not going to do it...This was probably the hardest boot fish I've ever done and I like to think of myself as no slouch. Been in the game long enough and know some tricks until I saw this fuckery. Dont think I've ever asked so much from my hands in such a tight space. Getting the boot out and connectors unplugged wasnt so much the hard part but getting the damn boot with the plugs reinstalled in such a tight space,well holy shit, that's another story...Anyway you will see from the pics I used a zip tie, some dish soap for lube, and alot of sweat and cursing...
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Optimizing OEM enclosures
I have read posts on this forum in the past but have not been as big into the car audio stuff as I have been in the past. I fiberglassed a ported enclosure for my previous car but it had the room for me to do so, and I had the time.
I just bought a brand new Ram 1500 Laramie, I am definitely very impressed with the Alpine system that it comes with. However, I would like to have it reach a little lower and be a little louder.
I would love to build a new enclosure and the whole 9(it would do well with more than a 3 band EQ lol)...but the time, budget and work space don't allow for it. I am looking to do a few things to help inside the truck. I will definitely be grabbing a bag of polyfill to stuff the oe enclosure, and possibly install some sound deadening on/around the enclosure, maybe doors too if I get the motivation.
Here's where things require insight and experience from this forum...I read where one guy installed sound deadening INSIDE and outside the oe enclosure. Obviously the enclosure is plastic and deadener helps with vibration, but does applying it on the inside really help that much more?
Any insight, good or bad, would be greatly appreciated!
I just bought a brand new Ram 1500 Laramie, I am definitely very impressed with the Alpine system that it comes with. However, I would like to have it reach a little lower and be a little louder.
I would love to build a new enclosure and the whole 9(it would do well with more than a 3 band EQ lol)...but the time, budget and work space don't allow for it. I am looking to do a few things to help inside the truck. I will definitely be grabbing a bag of polyfill to stuff the oe enclosure, and possibly install some sound deadening on/around the enclosure, maybe doors too if I get the motivation.
Here's where things require insight and experience from this forum...I read where one guy installed sound deadening INSIDE and outside the oe enclosure. Obviously the enclosure is plastic and deadener helps with vibration, but does applying it on the inside really help that much more?
Any insight, good or bad, would be greatly appreciated!
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Kenwood DMX9706S -- 3 Way Time Alignment?
Does anyone know if the Kenwood DMX9706S changes it's DTA interface to match the selected Xover network?
User manual and on-line videos only show Front, Rear, Sub time alignment.
Will unit switch to High, Mid, Low time alignment to follow the 3 Way Crossover? I only use components in front and subs in back.
I am building a new system in a '19 Tacoma and want to maintain use of back-up camera which means I can't use my Pioneer DEH80PRS. Very sad to lose use of this great deck!!!
User manual and on-line videos only show Front, Rear, Sub time alignment.
Will unit switch to High, Mid, Low time alignment to follow the 3 Way Crossover? I only use components in front and subs in back.
I am building a new system in a '19 Tacoma and want to maintain use of back-up camera which means I can't use my Pioneer DEH80PRS. Very sad to lose use of this great deck!!!
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'08 C6 Z06- My First DIY Project
Hi All!,
I have been lurking for a while and finally decided to join and post my plans to get some feedback/suggestions!
Background:
I am planning on upgrading the factory bose system in my Z. I had a Pioneer 4400nex installed professionally within the first week I got it. With my new jobs slightly longer commute, I thought I might treat myself to a modest sound upgrade. My original budget was 1K and I'd ideally like to keep it close to that (I have a tendency to way overshoot personal budgets haha). I already own a JL 10W6v3-D4 wired to 2ohm and a JL JX500/1D that are sitting in my mud room. I plan on running 6.5 components in the front and most likely 4" woofers in the rear mid panel. I have the center channel speaker disconnected and removed. I was originally going to go for a 5 channel amp and scrap the JX, but in comparing costs, keeping the JX and getting a 4 channel for the fr/rear will save me about $300-$400. The audio guru on the vette forum strongly recommended a DSP, recommending the VXi amps, but that would push me far above and I am trying to be good! The 4400nex has some basic EQ ability which I feel will suffice for now, and will add a Helix DSP Mini in the future.
Given that I am a super noob, I would love some constructive feedback here, especially my understanding of something is way off base!
What I like:
I love listening to all kinds of music, but would definitely say I appreciate some good bass. Ideally, Id like a set up that will be punchy and accurate in the lower tones without sacrificing detail and naturalness everywhere else.
Plans so far (with questions attached).
Amp:
JL RD400/4 ($330)
or
Alpine PDR-F50 ($300)
Front Components:
Dynaudio Esotan 232 ($430)
or
Focal 165v1 ($450)
(Dynaudio are my #1 choice. Any other suggestions greatly welcomed. I have not heard any of them irl, so this is based off of what I have read. Gentleman on forum strongly suggested Focal)
Rear Woofer:
Audiofrog GS40 ($180)
(Rear can fit 5.25, but didn't find any for the price that I liked better than the AF)
Q: If I was to get a pair of Dayton Audio Low Pass Filters 3.5k 12db/slope (parts express) and set the rear high pass filter to 200 hz/12db slope on the amp, would that create an effective bandpass filter for the speakers? Crutchfield advisor told me to get bandpass for the rear I had to go DSP.
Install Gear:
I like the look of Knukoncepts gear (seems like quality stuff and decently priced).
Kollosus Amp Kits
Krystal RCA's
Karma SS speaker wires
Power and ground distribution blocks
Speaker baffles (foam or silicon?)
Thinking 1/8th Lexan to make custom mounting plates for all speakers.
I already have sound deadening material left over (Kilmat) from when I covered the rear of the car to reduce drone, which I plan to use on the doors.
(Est. $300-400)
All in looking at ~1.35k give or take, so not too far above my original 1k budget.
Am I missing anything? Does this sound like a decent build? Changes/improvements?
I have been lurking for a while and finally decided to join and post my plans to get some feedback/suggestions!
Background:
I am planning on upgrading the factory bose system in my Z. I had a Pioneer 4400nex installed professionally within the first week I got it. With my new jobs slightly longer commute, I thought I might treat myself to a modest sound upgrade. My original budget was 1K and I'd ideally like to keep it close to that (I have a tendency to way overshoot personal budgets haha). I already own a JL 10W6v3-D4 wired to 2ohm and a JL JX500/1D that are sitting in my mud room. I plan on running 6.5 components in the front and most likely 4" woofers in the rear mid panel. I have the center channel speaker disconnected and removed. I was originally going to go for a 5 channel amp and scrap the JX, but in comparing costs, keeping the JX and getting a 4 channel for the fr/rear will save me about $300-$400. The audio guru on the vette forum strongly recommended a DSP, recommending the VXi amps, but that would push me far above and I am trying to be good! The 4400nex has some basic EQ ability which I feel will suffice for now, and will add a Helix DSP Mini in the future.
Given that I am a super noob, I would love some constructive feedback here, especially my understanding of something is way off base!
What I like:
I love listening to all kinds of music, but would definitely say I appreciate some good bass. Ideally, Id like a set up that will be punchy and accurate in the lower tones without sacrificing detail and naturalness everywhere else.
Plans so far (with questions attached).
Amp:
JL RD400/4 ($330)
or
Alpine PDR-F50 ($300)
Front Components:
Dynaudio Esotan 232 ($430)
or
Focal 165v1 ($450)
(Dynaudio are my #1 choice. Any other suggestions greatly welcomed. I have not heard any of them irl, so this is based off of what I have read. Gentleman on forum strongly suggested Focal)
Rear Woofer:
Audiofrog GS40 ($180)
(Rear can fit 5.25, but didn't find any for the price that I liked better than the AF)
Q: If I was to get a pair of Dayton Audio Low Pass Filters 3.5k 12db/slope (parts express) and set the rear high pass filter to 200 hz/12db slope on the amp, would that create an effective bandpass filter for the speakers? Crutchfield advisor told me to get bandpass for the rear I had to go DSP.
Install Gear:
I like the look of Knukoncepts gear (seems like quality stuff and decently priced).
Kollosus Amp Kits
Krystal RCA's
Karma SS speaker wires
Power and ground distribution blocks
Speaker baffles (foam or silicon?)
Thinking 1/8th Lexan to make custom mounting plates for all speakers.
I already have sound deadening material left over (Kilmat) from when I covered the rear of the car to reduce drone, which I plan to use on the doors.
(Est. $300-400)
All in looking at ~1.35k give or take, so not too far above my original 1k budget.
Am I missing anything? Does this sound like a decent build? Changes/improvements?
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BRUCE JOHNROE WrenchGuy
Well well well, hate to do this, but people ought to be aware of this guy and the fact that he does not need to be doing any work for anyone. So as we have it this guy was paid over $6800 for work on my Lexus ISF that he had in possession since the beginning of March. Work was finally complete by the very end of June which was the third time he postponed the build. His inability to pay his phone bill, led to me not being able to touch base with him other than FB messenger and or email and was inconvenient to say the least. His work was absolutely terrible, he lost my spare car key which he thinks was in his car that was repoed, never got that back, and the overall build and tune were absolutely horrible. This is in no way to defame him, merely saying that I do not want anyone to go through what he made me go through with his fits of rage, lies and postponements. People only go to reputable places for installs. This guy was the 4th place that fucked up my car costing me thousands and thousands of dollars, time and headaches over the course of over 2 years. More pics to come.
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mosconi vs Audison
Hello, I am doing an SQ build on my Tesla Model X. I am pretty much decided on speakers, 3 way active front stage, morel supremo tweeter in A pillar, Morel CDM-880 in sail, Focal 8WM in door. Coaxial in rear door and Focal SUB10WM in OEM subwoofer location.
Now for electronics I am trying to decide between Audison or Mosconi. If I do an Audison setup I would do use Bit one HD, Av 5.1k HD for tweets, 8 inch woofer and sub and an AV quatro for mids and rear. If I go Mosconi I would use an Aerospace 8to 12 with a pro 5/30 and pro 4/10 respectively.
I mainly use tidal master quality via Bluetooth to a Mosconi AMAS 2 or directly from my phone into the optical input using a turtle Beach micro ii otc to toslink adapter. I like that in the audison setup the signal is digital only being converted to analoge at the amp and that FIR filters do not have a phase shift. In the Mosconi I like that I can bypass all the filters and only use the amp as an amplier.
Both setups are pretty much the same cost so just wondering if anybody has used both setups and has feedback
Now for electronics I am trying to decide between Audison or Mosconi. If I do an Audison setup I would do use Bit one HD, Av 5.1k HD for tweets, 8 inch woofer and sub and an AV quatro for mids and rear. If I go Mosconi I would use an Aerospace 8to 12 with a pro 5/30 and pro 4/10 respectively.
I mainly use tidal master quality via Bluetooth to a Mosconi AMAS 2 or directly from my phone into the optical input using a turtle Beach micro ii otc to toslink adapter. I like that in the audison setup the signal is digital only being converted to analoge at the amp and that FIR filters do not have a phase shift. In the Mosconi I like that I can bypass all the filters and only use the amp as an amplier.
Both setups are pretty much the same cost so just wondering if anybody has used both setups and has feedback
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Speaker Cables Humming Noise Need Help
Setup
Kia Niro Hybrid (Gen 2)
Apline Halo9
Zapco HDSP-Z8 V
Zapco AP Amp
Focal Utopia M 3-way Speakers + Sub at the rear
QED Signature RCA
Kimber Kable 12TC Speaker Cables
DSP & Amps are at the rear in the spare tire compartment.
Background
Originally my setup was running on a loan Zapco HDSP-Z16 V DSP with cheapo silver-plated 2-core stranded speaker wires throughout.
When the Zapco HDSP-Z8 V arrived, my installer swapped it out and replaced my speaker cables with Kimber Kable. There's no change to the path that the speaker cables are being routed.
While my installer doing the tuning, there's a humming sound from the speakers when the music is not playing. The music will drown the humming noise when play loud enough.
Investigation
After some troubleshooting by my installer, it's confirmed that the speaker cable is the cause of the humming noise.
Per my hybrid car design, the lithium batteries are located at the bottom of the passenger seat so the humming might be the workings of the batteries as the speaker cables pass thru them, so it's speaker cables picking up the noise from the batteries.
Potential Solutions
Changing the speaker cables (again) is out of the questions.
I read that using shielding products from MuMetal will help.
Spira-Shield Flexible Conduit from Magnetic Shield Corp may be another alternative solution.
As I'm not from USA, getting these products and find out that it don't work will be a waste of my money so does anyone has any experience with these products?
Is there anyone who have a solution to my problem?
My installer is clueless as this is the first time he experience it on a speaker cable, which he think might be due to "poor/thin" insulation of individual core thus picking up the noise from the batteries. He installed similar Kimber Kable with similar setup on another non-hybrid Jap car and he did not encounter this problem.
Kia Niro Hybrid (Gen 2)
Apline Halo9
Zapco HDSP-Z8 V
Zapco AP Amp
Focal Utopia M 3-way Speakers + Sub at the rear
QED Signature RCA
Kimber Kable 12TC Speaker Cables
DSP & Amps are at the rear in the spare tire compartment.
Background
Originally my setup was running on a loan Zapco HDSP-Z16 V DSP with cheapo silver-plated 2-core stranded speaker wires throughout.
When the Zapco HDSP-Z8 V arrived, my installer swapped it out and replaced my speaker cables with Kimber Kable. There's no change to the path that the speaker cables are being routed.
While my installer doing the tuning, there's a humming sound from the speakers when the music is not playing. The music will drown the humming noise when play loud enough.
Investigation
After some troubleshooting by my installer, it's confirmed that the speaker cable is the cause of the humming noise.
Per my hybrid car design, the lithium batteries are located at the bottom of the passenger seat so the humming might be the workings of the batteries as the speaker cables pass thru them, so it's speaker cables picking up the noise from the batteries.
Potential Solutions
Changing the speaker cables (again) is out of the questions.
I read that using shielding products from MuMetal will help.
Spira-Shield Flexible Conduit from Magnetic Shield Corp may be another alternative solution.
As I'm not from USA, getting these products and find out that it don't work will be a waste of my money so does anyone has any experience with these products?
Is there anyone who have a solution to my problem?
My installer is clueless as this is the first time he experience it on a speaker cable, which he think might be due to "poor/thin" insulation of individual core thus picking up the noise from the batteries. He installed similar Kimber Kable with similar setup on another non-hybrid Jap car and he did not encounter this problem.
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Possible fried head unit
Hey Yall, so I have a 2013 scion frs. Over the weekend I picked up a avh1330nex off of FB marketplace. The guy gave it to me and it came wired with the pioneer connector branching to a 10 and 6pin connector. I got home, and as yall know the toyotas have a 10pin and 6pin. So mistakenly I plugged it in. Well it started smoking a little bit from that black input on the head unit and burnt the fuse. Flashback to buying it, I think he mentioned it was wired for a Nissan. My mistake, I know. Anyways, I took it all apart, the motherboard looked ok I didn't see any burnt spots or anything. Anyways I went to advance, picked up a toyota harness kit, plugged up all my wires, replaced the fuse and the head unit still doesnt come on. My factory one works when plugged in. This one (cant post link search amazon for "Direct wire harness for Pioneer Headunits (fits Toyota and Subaru)
" is arriving tomorrow which should factor out any wiring mistakes, even though I double checked my harness. Any troubleshooting tips? Thanks
" is arriving tomorrow which should factor out any wiring mistakes, even though I double checked my harness. Any troubleshooting tips? Thanks
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Self Driving 2016 Civic SQmobile Prototype: iOS | USB/SPIDF | Tubes | 3 DSPs | DTS N
CONTENTS:
CAR
COMMA AI
SOUND DEADENING
POWER
STOCK AUDIO
SOURCE/PROCESSING
AMPLIFICATION
SPEAKERS
TUNING
MISCELLANEOUS
Self Driving 2016 Civic SQmobile Prototype: iOS | USB/SPIDF | Tubes | 3 DSPs | DTS Neural | Dirac Live | Center Channel | Rear Fill
Something in the thread title brought you here. Now that you're here, this is what youll find:
Comma Ai OpenPilot | iPhone/iPad source via USB and SPIDF | iFi audio gear | Helix DSP Pro mk2 | miniDSP DDRC22D | miniDSP DDRC 24 | Biketronics amps | MMATS HiFi amp | Scan Speak | Audiofrog | Stereo Integrity | Morel
![]()
![]()
![]()
***DISCLAIMER:***
What you won't find here is anything cosmetically pleasing or fancy. The build is unrefined in regards to cosmetic presentation. View this as a possible blueprint for others to modify or build upon. I am not gifted with the craft side of this hobby. I chase the sound not necessarily an appearance.
Take note that this build is scalable in both directions. Dial back on some of the excess for a more economical version or take it to the max with your own boutique tastes.
CAR
COMMA AI
SOUND DEADENING
POWER
STOCK AUDIO
SOURCE/PROCESSING
AMPLIFICATION
SPEAKERS
TUNING
MISCELLANEOUS
Self Driving 2016 Civic SQmobile Prototype: iOS | USB/SPIDF | Tubes | 3 DSPs | DTS Neural | Dirac Live | Center Channel | Rear Fill
Something in the thread title brought you here. Now that you're here, this is what youll find:
Comma Ai OpenPilot | iPhone/iPad source via USB and SPIDF | iFi audio gear | Helix DSP Pro mk2 | miniDSP DDRC22D | miniDSP DDRC 24 | Biketronics amps | MMATS HiFi amp | Scan Speak | Audiofrog | Stereo Integrity | Morel
***DISCLAIMER:***
What you won't find here is anything cosmetically pleasing or fancy. The build is unrefined in regards to cosmetic presentation. View this as a possible blueprint for others to modify or build upon. I am not gifted with the craft side of this hobby. I chase the sound not necessarily an appearance.
Take note that this build is scalable in both directions. Dial back on some of the excess for a more economical version or take it to the max with your own boutique tastes.
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Any experience of these guys?
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Adding Aurasound Whisper to existing system
Hi, my current system runs budget Pioneer components actively from a class-d four channel amp (Pioneer GM-D1004) and has two small underseat subs. The system runs off a P99RS. Most of this equipment was chosen due to space constraints (MR2/MRS Roadster)
Volume-wise, the system is loud enough, and some or all of it will transfer to my next car. However, I'll have extra room and would like to go three-way. I have a second GM-D1004, so wondered if one Whisper per side would match up with a budget component set (I'm currently using these...
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...TS-A1604C.html
My plan is just to fill the gap between off-axis door-mounted midbass and sail- or pillar-mounted tweets
Will one Whisper per side be loud enough? I'm assuming it would get 20+ Watts rms from the amp (as the whispers are 8ohm?
Cheers in advance
Volume-wise, the system is loud enough, and some or all of it will transfer to my next car. However, I'll have extra room and would like to go three-way. I have a second GM-D1004, so wondered if one Whisper per side would match up with a budget component set (I'm currently using these...
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...TS-A1604C.html
My plan is just to fill the gap between off-axis door-mounted midbass and sail- or pillar-mounted tweets
Will one Whisper per side be loud enough? I'm assuming it would get 20+ Watts rms from the amp (as the whispers are 8ohm?
Cheers in advance
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Looking at new wheels - anyone know anything about Savini?
So I've been looking for a couple of years at wheels for my 370Z, wanting to step up to 20".
The ones I keep coming back to over and over are Savini. They "claim" to be a high end manufacturer, seems like a few years back there were some problems with their chrome, but I can't find anything recent at all.
Anyone heard of them, or have experience with them? Since we have a lot of left-coasters here, I thought I might get some traction.
For the record, I'm looking at the Savini BM12, BM15 in a polished or brushed silver finish, or perhaps at the SV-F4 in the gloss graphite finish (closest to silver they make).
Some pics:
SV-F4:
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BM12:
![]()
BM15:
![]()
I really like these styles. And when I start looking around, my head starts spinning around more and more. I am open to other manufacturers, who may have a more proven track record, honestly, I just am looking for something similar to these - multi-spoke, silver finish, mild to moderately concave.
Budget is around $2kish, give or take. Less is better, of course, but if I needed to, I could go up to $2.5k. I am not going to spend crazy money, this is strictly cosmetic and I am not going to be tracking the car at all.
The ones I keep coming back to over and over are Savini. They "claim" to be a high end manufacturer, seems like a few years back there were some problems with their chrome, but I can't find anything recent at all.
Anyone heard of them, or have experience with them? Since we have a lot of left-coasters here, I thought I might get some traction.
For the record, I'm looking at the Savini BM12, BM15 in a polished or brushed silver finish, or perhaps at the SV-F4 in the gloss graphite finish (closest to silver they make).
Some pics:
SV-F4:
BM12:
BM15:
I really like these styles. And when I start looking around, my head starts spinning around more and more. I am open to other manufacturers, who may have a more proven track record, honestly, I just am looking for something similar to these - multi-spoke, silver finish, mild to moderately concave.
Budget is around $2kish, give or take. Less is better, of course, but if I needed to, I could go up to $2.5k. I am not going to spend crazy money, this is strictly cosmetic and I am not going to be tracking the car at all.
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FS: Helix DSP PRO MK2
Info:
I recently purchased a new vehicle and am going to start gutting the old one so I can build up the funds for new gear for the new car. If I need to buy anything back, then I'll deal with it at that point but for now I'm just trying to build funds and then figure out what I want to do with it after.
First up for sale is the Helix DSP Pro MKII.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h...rs/dsp-pro-mk2
Just in case anyone is wondering, no I do not have the Director for it. Never needed one myself.
Condition:
It's in great condition. Some marks here and there from mounting but no major issues. I have the original box, manual and a USB cable for it.
Price:
Asking price is $715 shipped, CONUS.
Pictures:
I'll post pictures later when I get home.
I recently purchased a new vehicle and am going to start gutting the old one so I can build up the funds for new gear for the new car. If I need to buy anything back, then I'll deal with it at that point but for now I'm just trying to build funds and then figure out what I want to do with it after.
First up for sale is the Helix DSP Pro MKII.
https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/h...rs/dsp-pro-mk2
Just in case anyone is wondering, no I do not have the Director for it. Never needed one myself.
Condition:
It's in great condition. Some marks here and there from mounting but no major issues. I have the original box, manual and a USB cable for it.
Price:
Asking price is $715 shipped, CONUS.
Pictures:
I'll post pictures later when I get home.
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WTB Helix p six
Looking for a used helix p six. A friend listened to my setup over the weekend and is now looking to find one. I told him I would see what I could find. Not looking for bnib unless it’s priced ridiculously.
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New Class D amp pulls more current at idle than old school Class A/B amp?
From a test I found online, the new Class D Polk 5-channel amp PA-D5000.5 pulls about 2.5 amps at idle with no music playing and a 4 ohm load at 14V. My 18lb Class A/B Cadence F100-5 powerhouse amp (circa 2012) with 4 ohm loads and no music playing draws 1 amp at idle at 12.7 volts. I always thought that Class D amps required less current at idle than A/B amps? The Cadence is in my boat and it powers four MB Quart PVL216 and two Polk DB 10" subs in a sealed enclosure, all this inside the enclosed cabin up front. At a volume that is listenable for long periods, the current draw is less than 1.25 amps on average, and that's with four power hungry (87db sensitivity) 6.5" components and two subs. I recently bought a Polk PA-D200.2 two-channel amp that's CEA rated at 250W/ch into 2 ohms, and that amp idles at 1.25A at 12.7VDC, higher than the old Cadence. Comparing the Polk and Cadence 5-channel amps, at least at low SPL, I'll theoretically be able to listen to music in my boat at anchor with the Cadence amp more than twice as long as with the Polk amp before the battery voltage gets too low. Might anyone out there have an explanation for what seems to be an anomaly?
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Help with 2016 Navigator L Setup
I’m looking to upgrade the sound system in my Navigator. It currently has the 12 speaker, THX, system and honestly isn’t too terrible but I can’t leave anything alone. I have the JL Audio Stealthbox with a 2ohm 10w3v3 and 2 sets of JL Audio ZR 5x7 with tweeters. The other 3 speakers are (2) 1” tweeters and (1) 2”, yes 2”, speaker in the center dash. I’m assuming to upgrade the tweeters with some JLs but no clue what to do with the 2”. Any suggestions? Also what amplifiers should I be looking to run? (2) 4 channel amps and a mono for the sub? Should I pick up a 8to12 dsp? All input would be appreciated. Thank you
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