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Helix DSP MK2 PRO or DSP 3

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Hi,

I am planning to buy Helix DSP, I saw few DSP 2 for sale but I also have an option to buy at the same price point the Pro MK2 or the DSP 3 which is newer, I am debating my self which one is better (my setup is 3 way front and passive 2 way back + Sub), the 10 channels are not really important as its not 12 channel which I can use for rear comp.

For those who are familiar with features of those dsp and its h/w, which one do u think is preferred (same price point for new).

and btw, if is there a big diff between the DSP 2 and DSP 3?

Thx in advance.

FS: Rane RPM88 DSP (Home/Pro Audio)

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I am selling my Rane RPM 88 because I no longer need it for my home theater. It is in functioning condition however the front display does not work. I purchased it like this because I got a good deal on it and I didn’t need a preset indicator. It comes with all euroblock connectors, a power cord, and a crossover ethernet cable to connect to your computer to set up if you need to do so.

Here's some info:
https://www.rane.com/rpm88.html

My asking price is $125 shipped in the continental US.

Please private message me if you are interested in purchasing it.



WTB Arc 12 v3 d4

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Does anyone have an Arc 12 V3 D4 sub laying around they dont want?

Email me gm5901@yahoo






** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Mosconi AS100.4

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Used. Has the typical AS paint fade. Remote wire is soldered to the terminal and there are a few tiny places where the soldering iron hit the amp. Nothing bad and doesn’t affect the amp. All covers are intact. Price includes shipping to the lower 48. Comes with original box.

$425 shipped

WTB ADP1200.1

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Looking for a used ADP1200.1.
Anyone out there with one they want to get rid of.

Thanks

2017 Silverado CCSB - The Perpetual Build

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Okay, so finally decided that I should just go ahead and compile all of my photos/thoughts/ideas/challenges into a build thread. As I've stated several times here, this forum has been invaluable throughout my (ongoing) build. I figure the best way I can think to give back is to share my experience up to now and moving forward.

So far I've:
  1. Made numerous mistakes
  2. Redone work...multiple times... (d'oh!)
  3. Bought and Re-bought components
  4. Researched what seems like endlessly
  5. Invested in new tools (yay)
  6. Attempted new skills
  7. Learned a ton
  8. Had a blast every step of the way

Those last two bits were the most important I feel. Audio has always been an interest of mine and I'm happy to be working on a project that aligns with my interest, even if it's going to take me forever!

My hope is that this can help someone who is attempting a build, even if it's just some encouragement in that a fellow novice can accomplish some seemingly difficult things with enough patience and commitment. It may not be pretty, but we can still be proud! :)

Fair warning, this is a veritable dump of everything I've documented on my build so far. Apologies in advance for all backstory and details to follow, for those wanting the abridged version here is the summary of the build as it exists today:
HU/Interface: Pac AmpPro GM61
Processor: Helix DSP.2
Amplifier: Arc Audio X2 1200.6
Tweeters: SB Acoustics SB29RDNC-C000-4 Neo Magnet
Midrange/bass: Audiofrog GS690
Subwoofer: Image Dynamics ID8v4 in a Rodney's .4cuft console enclosure
Sound Treatment: Noico 80mil CLD and 170mil foam along with some Resonix CLD Squares and butyl rope.
Wiring: KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Amp Kit, Bassik 2-way blocks, and cheap Amazon 6-way fused distro for the DSP and future upgrades.

My plans moving forward are to apply further/redo sound treatment and ABS covers to the door panels, look at upgrading the sub/enclosure, and (if you followed my WTB ad) an additional Arc 1200.6 for MO' POWER!!! Just kidding, also to have additional channels for future upgrades, maybe going to a 3-way active up front? Oh, and this also justifies upgrading the 4AWG wiring...something I should have done to begin with...

After all of this, here are my key bits of advice for any other novice jumping into this:
  1. Do not underestimate the time it will take you to do this. Be patient, rushing or cutting corners will only lead to disappointment in one way or another.
  2. Plan your build carefully with special considerations to your particular install/space to avoid purchasing gear that is simply sub-optimal.
  3. Have realistic expectations. Yea, I know now that I had high hopes for a single 8" subwoofer, and yes I was/am still a little disappointed in it's output.
  4. This one is mainly for me but - go for 1/0 power wiring from the get go, I don't know what I was thinking.

Also, wanted to take a moment to thank all those that have helped and inspired me thus far - thank you for your feedback and for putting up with my countless (and random) PM's regarding everything from driver selection to installation methods. Special shout outs to Stycker, Lanson, speakerman99, xlynoz, and ToNasty, all of whom provided some much needed advice or feedback specific to this truck build.

Enjoy!

FS: Zuki Audio 10 channel

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Product Brand & Model:

Zuki Audio 10 channel

Condition of all items:

Very good cosmetic condition. Works perfectly, currently installed in my vehicle. Class a/b on all channels. Have been told not recommended to be ran below 4 ohms. All 103 caps have been replaced by Shawn King end of 2018.

Total Price: :

$1800 shipped.

Shipping Terms: :

Included in price

Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

Help me make up my mind

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I was looking at the Brax amps but I'm not sure I want to spend that kind of money.

I found a couple McIntosh amps used and the used part scares me.

The 2 major players I'm looking at right now would be something from the Mosconi Zero line and the old Focal fps4160.

I ran the focal 4160 in my last truck until it all went underwater. It was a powerful, clean, smooth amplifier. I found one new in the box at a fair price.

I've heard many great things about the Mosconi Zeros but its tempting to go with what I know.
The jl hd I've had for 3 years now just isn't doing it for me and I'm anxious to get back to something smoother sounding.

I could really use a push in the right direction.

Felt types?

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Hey all. I want to go about making my own dash pad. I have one currently and its super thin so the plan is to add some layers to it. Some reading has shown me that wool felt has the best absorption properties. I am having a hard time finding actual info on the different types of Wool. The seem to be categorized by the (F) type but prices start to skyrocket quickly. Kinda looking for the most bang for buck type and not sure whats what.

Any info would be nice.

Midbass for a 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

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I wanted a different take on this conundrum and see what I need to figure out to make this work, without knowing enclosure specs. In 2018, Jeep made the move to the JL platform from the JK platform and changed up the speaker sizes in the wrangler.

Instead of 6.5's stock, in the knee panel enclosures, now we have 4" drivers. However, top on or top off, the output is..ok. I'm running the Alpine premium upgraded system in my jeep, so apparently the speakers might be a little better than paper coners..but who knows :D

This is a picture of the stock, PORTED, enclosure that the 4" driver sits in:



What I'm trying to determine is what driver to upgrade to that's 6.5" in size and plays well in a ported enclosure. Assume it's being driven by an amp as well.

The issue is I don't know the internal size for air volume of the enclosure, and don't know what freq that port was tuned for. But I don't want to go through the trouble of building my own enclosure or sealing off this one and run it sealed.

I'm a trial and error kind of guy, so how would y'all approach this? Are there any known midbass drivers that play well in a ported setup?

My widebanders in the dash are undecided, might lean towards Morels or HAT L3 or L4s but I want to figure out the midbass first.

Setting gains when using dap as a source unit

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I've come to the conclusion bypassing my oem.headunit is easier way for me. I will be using my phone and dap straight into the dsp for everything. My question is. When setting gains how do I find clipping from the dap and I'm used to doing headunit then dsp then amps

"Upfront bass" show-off songs

Axxera the Dual company?

TECSOUND - MLV alternative?

Dash mats - spin-off thread

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In your opinion, assuming the vehicle was tuned without a dash mat in place, would adding one after the fact potentially screw up the tune? In theory, any reflections would have been taken into account and optimized during the non-mat tune. Would it make sense to retune after adding a mat, or is adding the mat always a net positive for SQ?

LNIB Focal PC165F 6 1/2 Expert Coax Set

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Product Brand & Model:
Focal Expert Series PC165F
6 1/2 Coax Speakers LNIB.Hooked up for Testing and Repacked.
Prisitine.................


Condition of all items:
LNIB 9.8 out of 10 because they were hooked up but as Pristine as can be.


Total Price: : 270.00 Complete Shipped

270 Shipped complete in USA Insured....UPS Tracking

Paypal Only
References available on Request.........:)



Shipping Terms: :
On me in CONUS.Insured



Pictures: - Unless you are a Upgraded member, or your last 10 iTrader feedbacks are positive, you must post a picture of the exact item you are selling.


Additional info:








** DO NOT DELETE ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE OR THREAD WILL BE DELETED **
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Please be advised, all buyers and sellers are responsible for performing their own due diligence when considering any financial engagement. We recomend that you:

1) Check the iTrader feedback of the person you are dealing with on this site, as well as other car audio forums.
2) Ask for a name address and phone number. Call them and verify their info.
3) Valid e-mail address. Correspond before committing.
4) consider using an escrow service to protect yourself.

DO NOT proceed with a deal until you are completely satisfied with the other party.

DIYMobileAudio is not responsible for the outcome of any transaction on this site and will not moderate on your behalf.

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Looking to modernize 15-20yr old system and install in late-model Impala

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This is long, but I’m trying to be thorough…

I've always been a Pontiac guy, which is getting to be pretty tough considering they haven't built any in about 10yrs. My last 3 cars have all been Grand Prixs and I've just been moving my system from car to car. But my current GP is getting old and it’s just 1 major mechanical failure away from not being worth fixing, so I’m trying to plan ahead.

My next car will probably be a 2017-2020 Chevy Impala. So I’ll probably need to integrate into the factory entertainment system (MyLink), and I want to add a DSP and maybe a few other improvements while I’m at it.

My current setup starts w/ a Kenwood eXcelon X693. This HU features front, rear, and sub outputs, digital time alignment, adjustable crossover freq, slope, and phase, and a 5-band (but non-parametric) EQ. This is the newest component in the system and it’s about 10yrs old. It’s also hooked up to a 10-disc CD changer.

The front stage consists of a JBL amp… I can’t remember the exact model number, but it’s the oldest component in my system. I wanna say it’s something like GTQ-9285. In any event, it’s a 4ch amp rated for 35WRMS x 4 or 105WRMS x 2 when bridged into 4ohms. It’s bridged to power a 2-way CDT EF-61i Component Set w/ 6.5” mids, 1" silk dome tweeters, and Sat-Net 560 passive crossovers. Both the mids and the tweets are mounted in the factory locations (low and forward in the front doors). The component set is rated for 100WRMS.

The sub stage consists of a JBL BP1200.1, which is a Class D monoblock rated for 1200WRMS into 2ohms. The subs are 2 AudioMobile MASS 12’s, SVC 4ohm, rated to handle 600WRMS, in a sealed enclosure that faces rearward in the trunk and provides about 1 cuft for each sub. The subs feature 30lb magnets, a titanium alloy cone, and nearly 1” of one-way linear excursion.

I don’t run any rear fill. The factory speakers are hooked up to the HU, but the HU’s internal amp is switched off via a setting in the menus.

Part of the reason I’ve had this setup for so long is becuz I really like the way it sounds. The CDTs are crisp without being too bright, and provide solid midbass (I actually run them at 30Hz and up to get as much up-front bass as possible, and they seem to handle it just fine). Imaging and staging are pretty good as well – at dash height, extending across the car and out to the windshield. I do have some holes at certain freqs/locations across the dash however.

The subs are the punchiest and most accurate I’ve ever heard. However, they’re not quite loud enough to produce that “take your breath away” feeling. I’ve thought about putting them in a ported enclosure, but they would require more than double the airspace for that and I don’t want to give up my whole trunk.

I also have to admit that I haven’t heard a good system other than my own in probably 10yrs. All of my car audio buddies from back in the day have either gotten out of the hobby or moved away. So I don’t really know how my equipment stacks up against modern stuff.

Questions:
1) How difficult would it be to install either a new HU or my existing HU? Am I better off sticking with factory HU/ MyLink system?
2) Any1 know if the Impala has molex connectors on the front doors?
3) Recommendations for a DSP?
4) If I stick w/ the factory HU, will most DSPs be able to correct the input signal by counteracting all the factory processing? Or do I need a separate processor for that?
5) I’ll need more channels of amplification to run a fully active setup, so I need to replace the mid amp. Suggestions for a good 4-channel amp in the 100WRMSx4 range?
6) Should I consider 3-ways instead of 2-ways up front?
7) Should I add rear fill? I don’t like the way rear fill sounds in my current setup, but maybe it sounds better w/ a DSP. Of course, this would also require more channels of amplification, but I could probably use my 35WRMSx4 amp.
8) Is there any practical way to maintain a CD changer? I don’t use it that much, but I’d still like to have it.
9) Anything else I’ve missed, or any other thoughts or suggestions?

Music taste: Rap, hard rock, industrial, metal, classic rock

Budget: I’m thinking $500-$1000… but I’m more interested in best value rather than a certain dollar limit. If I can get a much better setup for $1200 or even $1500, then that’s ok too.

2014 Focus ST Old School Equpment

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I have had all of the equipment since 2007, except the Audible Physics in the doors. Unfortunately, I did not install it this time.
Thanks to South County Mobile Electronics in San Clemente for a job well done. Loving it so far!

Straight forward install:
Pioneer DEH- PRS80 (three way active) into
Audio Control DQS (1/3 octave per channel!) Into
Zed Audio Gladius (powering pair of Image Dynamics Pro 1 not 100% sure)
Zed Audio Draconia (bridged powering Audible Physics 6's in the door)
Zed Audio Deuce (bridged 4 ohm into a much older SSA DCON (I think!?)


so far so good.

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Bleeding, NAV TV zen-v+helix

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Installed in a 2018 Audi S3:
Nav TV Zen-V
Helix DSP.3
Mosconi one 70.6 (2 channels left unused for future)
Mosconi one 250.2
Mosconi one 1000.1D
Hertz 1800.3
Hertz 700.3
Hertz 280.3
JL TW5v2

Issue: using TOSlink from Nav TV to Helix. After tuning came to realize balance function doesn't isolate left and right properly. Sounds very strange, when balance set to one side or the other, as if sound is bleeding from one side to the other on one or more of the speaker pairs.

Any suggestions? Real pain in the ass to get to the NAV TV piece. This issue is mentioned in the NAV TV manual and they say to rule out the DSP by bypassing the DSP first before calling them. Is this a common issue with maybe someone who doesnt know the Helix software well?

Audison 5.1k, Quattro, Bit One + DRC, Morel, Image Dynamics IDQ

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Hi,

I am moving and don’t want to put extra gear in my next place to have it collect dust. Went from Audison to Zapcos and Helix so I’m selling some extra and unused gear.

Note: Audison gear won’t be ready to ship until the end of this week (August 24th).

1 - Audison VOCE 5.1k amp - Very good condition. $675

2- Audison VOCE Quattro - bought brand new from a member here. Used for a couple months and will come with box and accessories. 9.5/10 condition. $575

3 - Audison Bit One DSP + DRC remote. Good condition. Comes with box. $340

— Buy Audison package (#1 to 3) to run active 3 way + sub with DSP and remote for $1500. —

4 - BNIB Morel MT23 tweeters - never seen power. $200

5 - Image Dynamics 2 x 12” IDQV3 D4 version. Had them wired to 2ohms with 500 watts each. Plays flawlessly. 9/10 condition. $180 each. $340 for both.

I’ll upload more photos when I get a chance. The Audison DSP is still in use and installed but I’ll remove and box it up.

The only trade I would consider are Audio Development w800 Neo 8” woofers. Must be in good condition.

Attachment 247593Attachment 247595Attachment 247599


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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